1990 Cadillac Deville V8 Front Wheel Drive Automatic 162000 miles
This car was running great on Monday and went to start it on Tuesday Morning and it ran real rough. No power to even get up a slight hill and rough idle.
Took it to auto repair and had them run a diagno on the car and they told me that the ECM was bad and that it was not sending power to several of the injectors and basically running on half the cylinders.
Went and bought New ECM and replaced, took prom card out of old unit and put in new unit. Cleared all the ECM and BCM codes from the system and started car, still have the same problem car runs like a junker no power.
Call the shop that diagonoised the problem and was told that the ECM had to be reset by someone with a scanner this is the only way. So after a very expensive part replacement still have to fix, car has new wires, spark plug, distributor cap, a rotor button. Any advance that might fix this problem would be greatly appreciated. I believe the Manual say that the EMC can be reset thru other mean, I do no believe the the first Ecm was bad, could the Prom card be the problem? I don't want to keep spending money on this car by guessing, and taking advise from a shop that I don't think they know what they are talking about.
If it ran fine then the next day it ran like crap, did you get gas? Test pump pressure and read any codes, read them this way and post results.
Cross these two terminals as shown, then turn the key on. Count the flashes, a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 12. Write them down and post here. This connector is right under the middle of the dash...
Also check ALL fuses in car and under the hood.
May, 24, 2009 AT 9:08 AM
I ran a jumper wire as in diagram and the system give me nothing but the fuel level and trip usage, no flashes or 22.
The only code that come up are the one listed below: E9.5
I have ran a pressure check on the fuel it is reading 42 on prime start up and dropping to 38 while running. Thought maybe bad gas, so filled it up and no change. Shop told me that when they ran diagonistic that the Emc was bad, and that only communicating with half of the injectors. I am about ready to just give up and start looking for a different car. Any thing else thanks.
May, 24, 2009 AT 12:11 PM
Has it been verified that half the injectors don't have power? A couple things, first of all, there is no reset on the ECM, they are possibly talking about idle learn, this will not cause your symptoms. Try removing the oxygen sensor from the pipe, or disconnecting the exhaust before the cat. If it runs better and has power, you have an exhaust restriction. Is the distributor loose, causing the timing to be retarded?
May, 24, 2009 AT 9:26 PM
I don't believe the car is retarded but more like the shop that told me the ECM is bad in the first place! This car has no cat it has been removed many years ago. I did some more testing on the car today, checking power to each injector, making sure the wire are right, all were working fine.
Then I did a pressure check on the fuel rack and got 41, and with the car running around 36. After shutting the car off and disconnecting the tester I notice that the test valve was leaking and when pushed in to relieve the pressure there was very little, this was a false reading.
So I removed the fuel filter believe that was a task, had to end up cutting it out, then put a hose on the line before the filter and turning the key on, the pump came on for about 1 second, and then shut off and stop pumping fuel, tried this several times and even turning the car over and the pump never engage during this time. I believe that there was never nothing bad with the EMC, and the shop stated the easiest thing first.
I do believe that the fuel pump should stay running as long as the key is on, due to no pressure limit switch on the gas system. I feel that the problem the whole time was the fuel pump is in the early stages of going out, and is no maintaining as steady pressure to all the injectors. I plan on going to the shop and asking for a refund, for services no rendered, shouldn't the fuel pump continue to run when not hooked up to the fuel system?
May, 25, 2009 AT 6:56 AM
I sent you some new instructions for testing. Check email! Also when you turn the key to the on position, fuel pump only runs 2-3 seconds, a signal from the ignition system must be recieved so the pump stays on.
June, 17, 2009 AT 7:26 PM
Thanks for all the help, but car is still not right. I changed the ECM and no change to the running of the engine. I changed the wires, distributor, rotor button, fuel filter, and dropped the gas tank and removed the fuel pump and put it on the bench.
Run the fuel pump with gas in a pan and it run fine for a couple of seconds, and then the pressure reduced, notice that the strainer was clogged and not letting gas into the system, so replaced stainer and the pressure stayed the same, put everything back together and car started and engine ran smoother, but still did not resolve the problem. Car still seems to be running on half the cylinders. So after spending alot of money for a new ECM because that's what the shop told me, I am no closer to getting the car running any better. I feel the I might of got a faulty ECM.
What else could be causing this problem? I bad crank position sensor, this car is really taking it toll on my money and mind. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Why am I not getting power to half the injectors. Need to check with NOID light tester. Any help removed one spark plug wire at a time and only acouple of them changed the running idle of the engine.
June, 17, 2009 AT 11:46 PM
Have you checked the resistance of each injector? Best to do warm, if possible. The spec is 15-17 ohms. 90 was a bad year for injectors, they typically short out. On sevilles, they had potential of taking out the injector drivers in ECM, devilles not as much. There should be two harness connectors at the end of both banks, one will have eight wires, and one ten. Check the resistance at these connectors, it is nearly impossible to disconnect the rear bank of injectors individually. The connector with ten cavities, has the coolant temp sensor running through it, it is the yellow and black wires on one end. Each injector terminal is across from the other. If you have some bad ones, then you will need to disconnect to differentiate which is which. The noid light would be a good idea to make sure they all are firing.
June, 21, 2009 AT 1:46 PM
I disconnected the wiring harnesses going to both injector rails and checked each one with a omh meter and it seems that only acouple of them are even showing any resistance. Most are showing 0, and a few of the other are showing 3 or 4. They all can't be bad can they? Placed a noid light on each connector at the harness and they are getting power when the car is cranked over.
When the car is running it only seems to be running on half the injector, since I am not going that much resistance from the injectors what can I do to fix this problem, can I remove the injectors and clean them or do I have to replace them all. I don't see them all going bad at the same time. If they all have to be replace then, I will probably end up putting the car up for sale as junk or parts since injectors are just to expensive. Any thoughts?
June, 22, 2009 AT 2:09 PM
If the readings are right then the cheapest way out is a set of good ones from a junkyard.
June, 22, 2009 AT 10:54 PM
They probably have been going bad over time, and just not noticed. It is not a factor of being dirty, it is the coils windings shorting internally.