I've had to replace a busted brake line, leading from the Master Cylinder down to the ABS pump. I did the job successfully, but there must be a ton of air in the system, cause it just has no pressure when the engine is running. It will stop at backup speed, but is not yet reliable for the road. I came across this warning on another site, and wondered what you thought about it.
WARNING For 1994-99 vehicles with ABS, after bleeding the brake system you must perform an " Auto Bleed" sequence, using a Tech 1 ® or equivalent scan tool. If you do not have access to a suitable scan tool, your vehicle will probably have to be towed to a shop with the proper diagnostic equipment to have the procedure performed.
I've never heard of such a thing, and figured I should ask first, and see if this is something that can be done at home now that it's not 1995 anymore.
Not without the proper scan tool. Those older ABS units were like that, it has to bleed itself internally in a specific order to force the air out.
January, 24, 2009 AT 10:14 AM
Yeah I was in the store yesterday and it was $300 for the ABS scanner and that only covered vehicles after 2000. The other one for this car was in the thousands. I think I'll have Midas do their thing.
I guess what the scan tool does is cycles the solenoids inside the ABS pump to get the air out. Tons of fun.
I found this late last night to explain it all.
Aa1car. Com/library/abs_bleeding. Htm
January, 28, 2009 AT 7:57 PM
What are your thoughts on using compression fittings to repair brake lines?
Some schools of thought say you don't get good pressure/non-leaking if you use compression fittings, and others say it's just fine.
I want to replace the 3 other lines, the thing is, just past the engine area, the lines are dandy and fine, and show no rust. Also they have a tendency to bend in ways I cannot duplicate. I would like to cut em and splice em, with new line running back to the ABS pump, and splices to the older lines going to the wheels, but I'd rather not screw it up.
Any thoughts here?
January, 28, 2009 AT 11:10 PM
Personally, I prefer to flare the lines.I guesss compression fittings would work, but I prefer to use flared fittings
January, 29, 2009 AT 1:25 PM
Thanks, I appreciate the clarification.
I will use Flare fitting on the fronts as I believe that there is greater pressure anyways, and since I've already used Compression fittings on the rear, stick with those unless they leak.
February, 2, 2009 AT 12:46 PM
So I've called around to places trying to find someone that does this procedure, and most have never heard of it.
I'm curious just what is this scan tool that's needed? Is it something I can just buy for a few bucks or is it prohibitively expensive?
February, 2, 2009 AT 7:51 PM
Midas and Meineke have never heard of it.
The Chevy & Buick Dealer use Tech 2 Scan tools now, and can't cover older Tech1 cars.
So I found a place local, that can do it. It's conveniently called Old-tyme cars. Scary.
February, 3, 2009 AT 8:12 AM
A Tech-1 would be needed for your car. The other shops probably " power bleed" with a machine which might work, but I couldnt promise success
February, 6, 2009 AT 1:27 AM
You were right. I had to go to a place called Old Tyme Auto in my area, because the Dealership was using a Tech 2 Scan Tool, and unlike USB it's not backwards compatible. I also forgot to plug in the wheel sensors when I had to heat up the bleeder screws to try and get them unstuck, and thought I blew the whole system to heck.
But for $100 I got that fixed correctly, and even got a patch job on the inside fender where it caved in, when I tried to use a little hole for a light holder. Which if I'm not mistaken was about what Midas is charging for a Power Bleed anyways.
This was a long job, and hope never to do it again, on any car. But I'm really good at double-flaring now, thanks to this job, and did all the fuel lines too, instead of compression, since they were beyond help, and needed replacement near the back passenger side too.
Thanks for your guidance in this matter.