Dandy news. Happy I could help. You don't have to shoot air into the rear. It is sufficient to do it to either one one of the wheels that don't bleed.
I always told my students to never push any brake pedal all the way to the floor, simply because of the corrosion that builds up. The exception would be for a new master cylinder that hasn't had time yet to build up corrosion. One fellow told me off for suggesting his master cylinder was ruined by doing that. He said he had been doing brakes professionally for many years and always pushed the pedal to the floor and never had a problem. 90 percent of the time he might get lucky but it only takes one destroyed master cylinder to ruin your day. Keep in mind too that many of the procedures written in the service manuals pertain to vehicles new enough to still be under warranty. You'll rarely see a paragraph about what to do about rusty parts. Someone should write a book about how to fix old rusty / corroded / jammed / cross-threaded, ... You get the idea. Also, since this is such a common problem, why isn't it mentioned in the service manual?
August, 14, 2010 AT 6:05 PM
" Dandy news. Happy I could help. &Quot; You and me both!
Here's what he did: He replaced the flex line on the front (we bought a new one the other night thinking it could be an issue with a collapsed or in some other way damaged flex line.) Bled the front driver brake, using your method, worked like a charm.
Went to the right rear, started by gravity bleeding to make sure all was well, when it started to drip, he bled that line too. Just to be on the safe side, we bled all four brakes, because in the beginning of the week he replaced the master thinking that was the issue. He is now test driving to make sure it's not just " in the garage ok".
I'm pretty sure we're finally done with this headache. I am SO glad brake system parts for this vehicle aren't expensive, and now I have a brand new braking system, short of one brake line and the rear flex which seem to be healthy at this time.
Thanks again for all the help! We really appreciated it!
August, 16, 2010 AT 2:31 AM
With a collapsed brake hose, uneven pads wear should have been present, and a locked up caliper. This is easily checked by opening the bleeder, if the wheel spins free the hose is no good, if it stays locked, the caliper is no good. None of this was in the post? Glad it's solved, but my cut and paste answer after my gravity bleed method, is for Electra, both ABS and non ABS.
August, 16, 2010 AT 7:33 AM
Sorry I didn't mention the brake shoes being replaced. Thought I did.
The pads had worn down to dry metal on the rear left wheel, so they were replaced, directly after the worn brake line was replaced and the braking problem wasn't resolved.
That's why we were bleeding them to begin with. I think, after reading your posts and Caradiodoc's posts, that the initial cause of not being able to bleed the left rear and right front brakes, the real problem was my brother inlaw's less than gentle manner of depressing the brake pedal.
Either way, I am grateful the solution to this problem was quick and easy for my husband to implement, as well as inexpensive.
Thanks again for taking the time, it was truly appreciated.
August, 16, 2010 AT 3:09 PM
You are welcome! Any further assistance, don't hesitate to ask!