1987 Buick Century stalling due to E10 fuel?

Tiny
ECKY
  • MEMBER
  • 1987 BUICK CENTURY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
I bought a used Century which seemed to run fine. Today I was nearly out of gas and used E10 because that was all that was available. The car ran fine for awhile, then began running very rough and stalling out. If I left it sit for awhile it would run again for awhile then stall. Can you tell me what's wrong, please.
Monday, November 9th, 2009 AT 8:19 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
ECKY
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Since I just bought this car and have only driven it about a half hour I guess this problem could have existed before I fueled with E10. I changed the fuel filter this morning, the car ran fine for about 15 minutes then started to hiccup and buck, finally stalling altogether. After a few minutes it started back up and ran very roughly for about 5 more minutes before stalling again. By this time I was home so I let it sit for awhile then started it up again and parked it.
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Tuesday, November 10th, 2009 AT 6:18 PM
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,
The E10 fuel should be ok, as you said this may have been an existing problem, I would start with a scan to check for any unresolved fault codes and do a full tune, report your findings after doing this for more assistance if required,

mark (mhpautos)
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Tuesday, November 10th, 2009 AT 8:28 PM
Tiny
ECKY
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I do not have a scan tool so tried to retrieve trouble codes with jumper wire on A, B terminals. After getting code 12 telling me that diagnostic system was working, upon starting car all the light did was continually flash. The check engine light is not lit when driving the car. Does this mean that no trouble code is stored? Should I buy a scan tool? I am reluctant to do this as I was not really going to keep this car very long. I did find one bad vacuum line to the evap cannister and the wire was disconnected from it but I doubt that was the problem.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2009 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
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Don't buy a scanner, I would either try and borrow one or get a work shop to do a scan, also a full tune may help if this has not been done as yet.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Thursday, November 12th, 2009 AT 8:55 PM
Tiny
ECKY
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I borrowed a scan tool and it found no codes stored. Decided to change plugs and found old plugs gapped at.35 instead of.45. Also plugs seemed to be installed only hand tight. Have not looked at 3 rear plugs as yet. Is there an easy way to get these out? There is only about 3" of clearance between firewall and plug, and I am having difficulty even to pull the plug wires off as I have large hands. Thanks again.
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Saturday, November 14th, 2009 AT 2:47 PM
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,
At this point I will have to hand this post over to a new moderator, as I am in Australia and not sure about doing this as I have never seen one (we don't have tis car here) so far I have been able to work through the theory with you, if I could see it I would be able to work it out, normally with V6 engines you have to remove the in let manifold to access the rear plugs, I will ash this question on our private forum and get you an answer as soon as I can.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Saturday, November 14th, 2009 AT 3:34 PM
Tiny
KNOWYOURAUTO
  • MECHANIC
  • 113 POSTS
The engine must be shifted forward to allow enough clearance for removing the spark plugs. There are two top motor mounts that can be relocated to do this.

Removed the two bolts attaching the engine to the mounts. If you look on the underside of these mounts, one or both of them will have an extra hole that can be used to hold the motor in place while it is shifted forward.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/435113_mounts_1.jpg


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/435113_mount_1.jpg



One inspection tip. The upper intake manifold where "2.8 multiport FI is printed tends to leak at the bolts. There are several small grommet that seal the bolts as they pass through the intake chamber. Check for leaks by spraying brake cleaner, throttle body/intake cleaner while the engine is idling steadily,(if it will!). A surge/engine revv following a spray indicates a leak.

Good luck,
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Tuesday, November 17th, 2009 AT 11:27 AM

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