Brakes are sticking

Tiny
DARRYL MORELAND SR.
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 212,000 MILES
Bought the car for son for college, been sitting six months needed rear brakes which seller provided. Installed, son started driving and brakes started locking up. Found front brakes needed, installed and replaced right front caliper. Bled system, drive about five to ten minutes. Brakes on front are locking up and heating up. I am thinking bad master cylinder. The pedal is fine does not go to the floor and is not to stiff. Wondering if lines or master cylinder is bad. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Saturday, September 1st, 2018 AT 5:21 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,244 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

There are a few reasons brakes hang up. A sticking piston in the caliper, a collapsed rubber brake line, corroded slides, or rust build up under the hardware causing the pads to stick.

When you replaced the brakes, were the pads loose in the caliper so they were able to move? I have seen some that I had to use a hammer to remove. If they were loose, the next most common problem is that the slide pins on the caliper are frozen or corroded and not allowing them to move. Did you clean and lubricate the slides? Were they free moving?
If they were, next is the caliper pistons. One caliper is new, so I will assume it is good. The original one may be an issue. Here is what I want you to do: Safely lift the front wheels off the ground. Have a helper press the brake. Try turning each wheel. Both should be locked. Next, have the helper release the brake pedal and try spinning each wheel. If they are still locked or have a heavy drag, remove the wheels. Repeat the process but this time when the brakes are released and the rotor will not turn, open one bleeder to see if pressure is released and you can turn the rotor. Do this on both sides. If the rotor turns when the bleeder is opened, replace the rubber brake hose to the caliper. They can collapse internally allowing pressure to apply the brakes to get through, but are blocked enough that there is not enough pressure to release. Thus, the brakes stick on.

I have to be honest, and this is from experience, most often, rust builds on the caliper mount (where the brake hardware and pads fit). The rust expands causing the hardware to become tight against the pads and causing them to freeze. Since the car sat, make sure that is not what is happening. I always take a file to all surfaces where the hardware and pads mount.

Here is a link that discusses in general how to replace front brakes. Just added it in case you wanted to make sure everything went together properly.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Do this and let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, September 1st, 2018 AT 9:31 PM
Tiny
DARRYL MORELAND SR.
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks Joe for advice. I did clean and install. We hardware when I replaced all four brakes. Once the car cools the brakes release. It is only constant driving for five to ten minutes they they lock up. I tried to replacing master cylinder based on the condition and rust in the fluid. When I took off the master cylinder air came rushing out. Not much but some, I wonder if it is the master cylinder not returning or if it is the check valve could be bad. The proportion valve was cleaned also when I bleed system. But I did not replace the hoses, I knew I need to get rid of the rust and dirt first that is why I purchased the master cylinder first. I will have my son help touch bakes to check hoses. Thank you
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Monday, September 3rd, 2018 AT 4:36 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,244 POSTS
Make sure when checking to open the bleeder to see if they release. I think the hoses are the problem.

Let me know. I am interested in knowing if that is the problem.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, September 3rd, 2018 AT 7:41 PM

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