Brake pads

Tiny
NICKTHEBEST
  • MEMBER
  • 2014 DODGE AVENGER
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 6,200 MILES
I am trying to find out what the original pads are made of that are on the car from factory? Not sure if they are ceramic or semi metallic? Car has 4 wheel disc brakes I want to replace pads with the same kind of pads from the factory (but not oem mopar)i want to use another top brand just need to know whats the best for this car and what pads came on it from factory! Any help would be appreciated! Thank you
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Wednesday, April 27th, 2016 AT 1:23 PM

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Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
It doesn't matter because all replacement pads must have the exact same coefficient of friction to maintain the front-to-rear brake balance that was designed in by the manufacturer. The cheapest replacement linings and the most expensive will stop exactly the same with the same pedal pressure.

As a general rule, ceramic pads will tend to squeal, especially in humid weather, until they get warmed up. More expensive pads will have the edges tapered to reduce squealing. We do that ourselves to any pads that don't have that done already. Less-expensive linings usually grab harder so they will have a smaller surface area. They will likely wear out faster, but ceramic pads will wear the rotors out faster. During a routine brake job, there is a published legal minimum thickness we can machine used rotors to, and a slightly thinner dimension they can be allowed to wear to before they must be replaced. If you "upgrade" to ceramic pads, you'll be buying replacement rotors more often. Fortunately, today rotors for front-wheel-drive cars cost about one fifth of what they did 25 years ago.

If you really need to know more about the original brake pads, visit the dealer's parts department first to see if that is mentioned in their original parts listings. You can also ask a salesman. Some people think there is a benefit to ceramic pads so they will use that as a selling point.
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Wednesday, April 27th, 2016 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
NICKTHEBEST
  • MEMBER
I am gonna go with a premium pad probably centric or bendix, with the tapered edges with all the hardware together, this is a pretty new car with low mileage but will need brakes soon and I only use good brand parts so do you recommend metallic or semi metallic for the dodge avenger? Is there much difference between the two? (Gonna skip ceramic alltogether!) Just let me know what you would recommend! Thanks for your help! Nick in n.Y.
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Wednesday, April 27th, 2016 AT 4:38 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
You're not going to like my recommendation. I was the suspension and alignment specialist at a very nice family-owned group of Chrysler dealerships in the '90s. I also specialized in brake system diagnosis and electrical repair. I also taught those areas in a community college for nine years. As the expert I claim to be, the only time we ever installed Chrysler-supplied brake parts was when the vehicle was under warranty and the manufacturer was paying for the parts. They always insist on that to insure the car is put back to "exactly as new".

For all our customers and our trade-in cars, we used a generic brand from a traveling salesman who stopped in once each week to restock our shelves. In the ten years I was at the dealership, we never had a problem with those products or with the name-brand stuff when we had to order from the local auto parts stores.

99 percent of drivers will never be able to tell which brake linings they have because, as I mentioned, they are all required to have the same stopping power and fade resistance to maintain front-to-rear balance. "Better" linings are not better in that regard. I suspect you're seriously over-thinking this unless you fall into that last one percent. I was also involved with racing, and those people use different products, but they still look for balanced braking and fade resistance. They use the same generic brand stuff on the trucks they use to haul their race cars around.

You must also consider that automotive marketing is hugely competitive. If a manufacturer can advertise one more horsepower, one more cubic foot of leg room, one more cup holder, or one foot shorter stopping distance, you can be sure they're going to do it. In fact, the cheapest brake linings will easily lock up a wheel, so you can't do any better than that. It's the friction between the road surface and tires that determine that.
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Wednesday, April 27th, 2016 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
NICKTHEBEST
  • MEMBER
Well the vehicle is a 2014 and has a little over 9000 miles on it and it is under warranty plus I bought the extended warranty on it also the service writer said it will need brakes at about 12,000 is he b.S-ing me? Whats the aveage wear on brake pads? This car is front wheel drive and disc brakes all around but I worked at land rover for about 5 years and I know how they work at the dealership and they will do anything to sell a job even if the brakes arent that bad! If they are at or around 50% they tell you you need brakes so if I did the brakes on my own would it void the warranty? I dont want them telling me I have the wrong brakes on the car! Do they have to be mopar brakes put on by the dealer? I could pull the wheels and look myself I would know right away! I guess I could call the parts dept. And ask what kind of brakes are on it from factory and go from there what could they really say if I put a top brand on the car and they are the correct linings? I mean what makes mopar brakes so great? Am I out of line in what I am thinking? I know these dealers they will want to charge me good for a brake job, but if its under warranty I might not have a choice! Your thoughts please sir just one more time and I wont bother you again! Thanks nick in n.Y.
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Wednesday, April 27th, 2016 AT 7:33 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
You're not bothering me, but I'll be heading home soon, then you won't hear from me for a day or two.

Brakes are never under warranty from any manufacturer unless there is a safety-related recall. Same goes for clutch discs for manual transmissions. Those are wear items the manufacturer has no control over. You won't void any other part of the warranty.

As for extended warranties, which are just really expensive service contracts, those are usually not a good value when you can do your own work. I bought one new car from the dealer before I worked for them, and one after. In both cases the salesman mentioned that was available, but they never pushed it like the really high-pressure GM salespeople do.

I agree there are some dealers that look extra hard to find something to sell you. Luckily the people I worked for were not like that. They started in business in the mid '40s in a really tiny town, and have grown to five dealerships by keeping their customers happy. Also, we were always busy with "new vehicle preps" and trade-in safety inspections and repairs so we didn't have to go looking for work. Also, the mechanics were often asked to show customers why something was needed so we had to be able to back up our findings.

How long your brakes last depends on the kind of driving you do. I finally retired my '88 Grand Caravan after 273,000 miles. I put new pads on it twice and one rotor. That includes dragging a tandem axle enclosed trailer that's bigger than the van, to an old car show swap meet a dozen times. That's 110 miles round-trip and the trailer brakes were never hooked up.

9,000 miles is way too soon to be expecting to need brakes. There were some trucks in the '90s that went through pads real fast, but there was a service bulletin for that for trucks that were always grossly overloaded. Those still lasted 25,000 to 30,000 miles.

If you were a mechanic before, you know the things we do to prevent noises and vibrations, and the things do-it-yourselfers can accidentally do to cause those things. If you are not familiar with those things, holler back when you get that far and I'll find a copy of a previous reply and repost it. I don't have enough time left in my life, ... Well, ... My laptop battery, to retype that all right now.
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Wednesday, April 27th, 2016 AT 8:10 PM

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