The brakes will get hot and lock up?

Tiny
TLAIKEN72
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD F-250
  • 7.3L
  • V8
  • TURBO
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 323,000 MILES
The brakes on my truck got extremely hot and locked up one day. I replaced everything on the brakes, including the master cylinder, brake booster, lines (except main lines running down the frame). Sometimes it will run fine and sometimes the brakes will hot and lock up. I have been dealing with this for over a month and I cannot figure it out. Please help
Sunday, December 11th, 2022 AT 4:02 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,114 POSTS
Hi,

If you have replaced everything and they are doing this, something is likely causing them to slightly hang up. Do you notice it happens the longer you drive? I ask because if there is a slight drag, it will cause the brakes to heat up. As it heats up, the brake fluid expands and can cause the brakes to lock up.

This leads me to a question. When you installed the new master cylinder, did you check the pushrod adjustment? If that is over extended, it can cause the brakes to drag.

Take a look at the directions below and let me know if this was done.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Sunday, December 11th, 2022 AT 8:28 PM
Tiny
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Thank you for responding! For the most part it happens the more you drive but sometimes you can just go down the road. Also, it doesn't do it as badly when it's cold out. Yes, I have adjusted the push and am still getting the same result. Also, it's not always the same wheel locking up or getting hot, sometimes it's the front brakes or and sometimes it's one of the back ones. Not sure how hot it is too hot for the wheel to get. It varies from 90 to 220. I read on another post earlier about a park brake causing rear brake problems. My park brake wire is a little frayed. Could that keep it from releasing all the way and causing my brakes to act crazy? I know this brake problem is about drive me crazy, lol.
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Sunday, December 11th, 2022 AT 9:05 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

Absolutely, a faulty parking brake cable can cause it to stick. But that would apply to the front.

I want you to try something. When you have a brake that is overheating, lift that wheel off the ground and see if you can turn it. If you can't, open the bleeder on the caliper and see if it turns. If it doesn't turn the caliper, is the issue. If it does turn, the caliper is fine and the problem is between the caliper and MC.

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, December 11th, 2022 AT 9:20 PM
Tiny
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Okay, we went and got a new parking brake cable, and my son and boyfriend are installing it now. I will have my son or boyfriend drive it and check the wheels tomorrow, and I will let you know.
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Sunday, December 11th, 2022 AT 11:41 PM
Tiny
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Okay, so they replaced the parking brake cable and drove it. They said that it drove better and didn't feel like they were dragging but when they got back home the back passenger brake was 210 and all others were 80 to 90 degrees. My boyfriend drove it to work (about 15 miles) and it did fine, but on the way home the truck drove fine but the driver's side front was 110 passenger was 80 drivers rear was 82 and passenger rear was 220. They jacked the front wheel, and it would not turn until they bled the brakes which the bleeder did not want to open. The rear tire would not turn either until they bled it. Again, the bleeder did not want to open. The only thing I have not replaced as of yet is the module control and the ABS hydraulic unit.
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Monday, December 12th, 2022 AT 8:55 AM
Tiny
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With that being said the front may be a caliper problem but what would keep the back locking up and overheating because those are drum brakes?
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Monday, December 12th, 2022 AT 9:03 AM
Tiny
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Hi,

The rear drum brakes are a good question, but it could be something as simple as a parking brake cable allowing the secondary shoe to remain partially engaged. Have you lifted the rear to see if there is an excessive drag with the parking brake off?

Also, have you taken the drums off to see if something has come apart? Try this: Lift the rear off the ground. Have a helper fully apply the parking brake. Make sure you can't turn the wheels. Then, have the helper release the parking brake to see if they fully release it.

It's just a theory.

Let me know. Also, let me know what I can do to help.

Take care,

joe
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Monday, December 12th, 2022 AT 8:08 PM
Tiny
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We have done all that. They blocked off the back brakes last night, then drove around without any problems until they pulled in the driveway. He turned off the truck and cranked it back up and the ABS and brake light both came back on. Both rear brakes were 70 degrees, and the front were 130 degrees. But now the brakes are spongy and won't get hard.

So, if the ABS hydraulic unit/valve on the rear frame is bad what would happen? Or the ABS module behind the glove compart? Is there a way to test either of these?
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Tuesday, December 13th, 2022 AT 1:07 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

If you have an issue with an ABS module, you will lose the ABS assist. The brakes will continue, but the ABS won't actuate.

As far as the issue, I was unaware there were lights turning on. Have you checked to see if there are diagnostic trouble codes stored that could point us in the right direction?

This truck will have an OBD1 system that doesn't require a scan tool to retrieve codes. Take a look at this link. If you are comfortable performing it, let me know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

Take care,

Joe

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Tuesday, December 13th, 2022 AT 7:55 PM

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