Front brake pad and rotor replacement instructions please?

Tiny
OJSMOKEY
  • MEMBER
  • 2014 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.6L
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 50,000 MILES
Hi. We are having the brake disc and pads changes on our car (14 plate Honda Civic 50,000 miles). The garage have said I need new brakes I wanted to save some cash can you help me please?
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Saturday, August 20th, 2016 AT 4:32 AM

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Tiny
DANNY L
  • MEMBER
Hello, I'm Danny.

Here is the information you requested. This is a tutorial showing what is involved on how to change front brake pads and brake rotors:

https://youtu.be/-HDVldGwHTU

and

https://youtu.be/_HrWXRdD2ug

I've attached picture steps below on how to change the front brake pads and rotors on your car. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros
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Friday, February 19th, 2021 AT 6:25 PM
Tiny
WALLY AB
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 HONDA CIVIC
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 149,000 MILES
I changed the front pads and rotors November 2017, after 8 months had to change pads on front driver side while other was fine. Pads were pretty much gone, and on the other side they were fine.

I changed the caliper on the drivers side, and I'm having to change the pads again 14 months later. Other side is about less than half on the inner pad, about almost done on the outside pad, while side I changed caliper on is pretty much completely done.

Is this normal?
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome to 2CarPros.

The side that has the uneven wear most likely has an issue with either one of the pads is frozen in the mount or the caliper slide pins are not free. The slide pins must be clean and lubricated so they move easily. If they aren't, one pad will wear faster than the other. Also, often times rust will develop under the brake pad retainer clips causing the retainer to swell against the pad and prevent it from moving. So here is what I need you to do.

I attached a pic below. I highlighted the caliper pins / slides I'm referring to and circled the caliper mount where the brake pads sit. Here is what I want you to do on that side. First, remove the caliper from the mount. Try moving the slide pins in and out. They should be free and easily moved. If they aren't, remove them, clean them and inside the caliper mount, and use brake grease to lubricate them. Reinstall and confirm easy movement.

If that isn't the issue, I want you to remove the brake hardware where the pads sit. Take a file and clean any debris or rust on the steel caliper mount where the brake pads sit. Next, clean the pad retainers (see pic) and then reinstall the pads. Do they move easily in the mount? They should be snug but easy to move.

_________________________________

Next is the side that wears the pads too fast.

First, safely lift that wheel off the ground. Make sure the parking brake is on, rear tires are blocked to prevent movement, and place the transmission in neutral.

Turn the wheel. Is there excessive drag? Next, have a helper press the brake pedal so the wheel no longer turns. Have the helper release the pedal and you check to see if the wheel turns right away. If it doesn't, first follow the procedures I mentioned above to make sure it isn't one of those two issues. If that isn't the problem, I want you to do the following.

Remove the wheel. Make sure you are able to turn the rotor. Have the helper press the brake pedal and release it. If you aren't able to turn the rotor which indicates the brake isn't releasing, open the bleeder on the caliper. Does the rotor then turn?

If it does, replace the rubber brake hose to that caliper. If it still doesn't and you know the two items above aren't the issue, replace the caliper again. The piston is frozen or partially frozen.

Here are a couple links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-caliper-replacement

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

___________________________

Let me know what you find and if this helps. If you have other questions, feel free to ask.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPROS-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 HONDA CIVIC
  • 37,000 MILES
A few months back I started hearing a creaking noise from the front left side of my car when braking. Gradually it got louder and louder. The noise would only happen when I would be braking and coming to a stop. My front brake pads were replaced less than a year ago. I took it to the dealership a few weeks ago and they re-lubricated the brake pads. Once that happened and we test drove it the noise was gone. They told me if it started happening again to bring it back because it may be the rotors or a ball joint I believe is what they told me. However they also said with the car being a 2008 and having just under 37,000 miles they couldn't see why it may be one of those 2 things. I've never been in any accidents or anything with it. Last night I started hearing the noise again slightly and again a little today.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Front brakes are not too hard to replace. First, here is a link that explains in general how it's done. You can use it as a guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

________________________________________________

2008 Honda Civic L4-1.8L
Front
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Pad Service and Repair Removal and Replacement Front
FRONT
Front Brake Pad Inspection and Replacement

Special Tools Required
Brake caliper piston compressor 07AAE-SEPA101

CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health.
Avoid breathing dust particles.
Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner.

Inspection - Except Si Model
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and outer pad (C). Do not include the thickness of the backing plate.

pic 1

4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace the front brake pads as a set.
5. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels.

Replacement - Except Si Model
1. Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. Remove the flange bolt (A), and pivot the caliper (B) up out of the way. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.

Pic 2

5. Remove the pad shims (A) and brake pads (B).

pic 3

6. Remove the pad retainers (A).

pic 4

7. Clean the caliper bracket (B) thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks. Verify that the caliper pins (C) move in and out smoothly. Clean and lube if needed.
8. Inspect the brake disc, and check for damage and cracks.
9. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the retainers on their mating surfaces (indicated by the arrows) against the caliper bracket.
10. Install the pad retainers. Wipe excess assembly paste off the retainers. Keep the assembly paste off the brake disc and brake pads.
11. Mount the brake caliper piston compressor tool (A) on the caliper body (B).

pic 5

12. Press in the piston with the brake caliper piston compressor so the caliper will fit over the brake pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting the caliper down.

NOTE: Be careful when pressing in the piston; brake fluid might overflow from the master cylinder's reservoir.

13. Remove the brake caliper piston compressor tool.
14. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the pad side of the shims (A), the back of the brake pads (B) and the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads. Contaminated brake discs or brake pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease and assembly paste off the brake disc and brake pads.

pic 6

15. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the brake pad with the wear indicator (C) on the upper inside. If you are reusing the brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency.
16. Pivot the caliper down into position. Install the flange bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified torque.

pic 7

17. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels.
18. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work.

NOTE: Engagement may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke.

19. Add brake fluid as needed.
20. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then recheck for leaks.

Inspection - Si Model
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and outer pad (C). Do not include the thickness of the backing plate.

pic 8

4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace the front brake pads as a set.
5. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels.

Replacement - Si Model
1. Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. Remove the flange bolt (A) while holding the caliper pin (B) with a wrench. Be careful not to damage the pin boot, and pivot the caliper (C) up out of the way. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.

pic 9

5. Remove the pad shims (A) and brake pads (B).

pic 10

6. Remove the pad retainers (A).

pic 11

7. Clean the caliper bracket (B) thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks. Verify that the caliper pins (C) move in and out smoothly. Clean and lube if needed.
8. Inspect the brake disc, and check for damage and cracks.
9. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the retainers on their mating surfaces (indicated by the arrows) against the caliper bracket.
10. Install the pad retainers. Wipe excess assembly paste off the retainers. Keep the assembly paste off the brake disc and brake pads.
11. Mount the brake caliper piston compressor tool (A) on the caliper body (B).

pic 12

12. Press in the piston with the brake caliper piston compressor so the caliper will fit over the brake pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting the caliper down.

NOTE: Be careful when pressing in the piston; brake fluid might overflow from the master cylinder's reservoir.

13. Remove the brake caliper piston compressor tool.
14. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the pad side of the shims (A), the back of the brake pads, (B) and the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads. Contaminated brake discs or brake pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease and assembly paste off the brake disc and brake pads.

pic 13

15. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the brake pad with the wear indicator (C) on the upper inside. If you are reusing the brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency.
16. Pivot the caliper down into position. Install the flange bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified torque while holding the caliper pin (B), with a wrench being careful not to damage the pin boot.

pic 14

17. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels.
18. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work.

NOTE: Engagement may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke.

19. Add brake fluid as needed.
20. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then recheck for leaks.

____________________________

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care and God Bless,

Joe
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRYAPILADO
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 HONDA CIVIC
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 54 MILES
I recently hit a curb and it made a dent in front of my car then my brake warning light came on so I need to do a brake job.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MEMBER
Hello, I'm Danny.

Here is the information you requested. This is a tutorial showing what is involved on how to change front brake pads and brake rotors.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

I've attached picture steps below on how to change the front brake pads and rotors on your car. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ENTA7AOC
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 40,000 MILES
Am the first owner of my car. I just took it in for its 2nd B1 service since taking delivery of it on november 4, 2007. I am told that the front wheel brake rotors and pads needs to be replaced, because they are 98% worn out.
My question is: is it just the brake pads that are worn out or the rotors too. I am a female. I do not drive my car hard.
I am told that the cost to repair the rotors and pads will be about $500.00. I understand that the pads may need to be replaced, but do not know enough to know if the rotors need to be replaced as well. So this is my question. Can the pads be replaced without replacing the rotors as well?
I'm taking the car in for servicing tormorrow and would appreciate your answer.
Thank you
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
HI there,

Brake rotors must be replaced when they reach there min thickness, see the table for you car, if the rotors are still above this min thickness there is no reason to replace them, often workshops will just say they need doing as this is extra that they can charge.

Mark (mhpautos)


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/61395_1_105.jpg

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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPROS-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 HONDA CIVIC
  • 98,000 MILES
So the other night I hit a very large pothole with my driver side wheel that I didn't see. It was deep enough to scratch a bit of my front lip and a little bit of my undercarriage by the driver side wheel. Ever since my brakes started making a weird ticking noise which tells me the brakes need to be done please instruct me.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Front brake pads and rotors really aren't too hard to do. If you do it yourself, make sure to purchase lifetime parts so you'll never have to pay for the parts again.

You can expect brake pads to last approximately 25,000 miles. However, that can change based on terrain and driving habits.

To start, here is a link that shows in general how it's done. You can use this as a guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The pics below correlate with the directions.
_________________________________________________

2008 Honda Civic L4-1.8L
Front
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Pad Service and Repair Removal and Replacement Front
FRONT
Front Brake Pad Inspection and Replacement

Special Tools Required
Brake caliper piston compressor 07AAE-SEPA101

CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health.
Avoid breathing dust particles.
Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner.

Inspection - Except Si Model
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and outer pad (C). Do not include the thickness of the backing plate.

pic 1

4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace the front brake pads as a set.
5. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels.

Replacement - Except Si Model
1. Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. Remove the flange bolt (A), and pivot the caliper (B) up out of the way. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.

pic 2

5. Remove the pad shims (A) and brake pads (B).

pic 3

6. Remove the pad retainers (A).

pic 4

7. Clean the caliper bracket (B) thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks. Verify that the caliper pins (C) move in and out smoothly. Clean and lube if needed.
8. Inspect the brake disc, and check for damage and cracks.
9. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the retainers on their mating surfaces (indicated by the arrows) against the caliper bracket.
10. Install the pad retainers. Wipe excess assembly paste off the retainers. Keep the assembly paste off the brake disc and brake pads.
11. Mount the brake caliper piston compressor tool (A) on the caliper body (B).

pic 5

12. Press in the piston with the brake caliper piston compressor so the caliper will fit over the brake pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting the caliper down.

NOTE: Be careful when pressing in the piston; brake fluid might overflow from the master cylinder's reservoir.

13. Remove the brake caliper piston compressor tool.
14. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the pad side of the shims (A), the back of the brake pads (B) and the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads. Contaminated brake discs or brake pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease and assembly paste off the brake disc and brake pads.

pic 6

15. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the brake pad with the wear indicator (C) on the upper inside. If you are reusing the brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency.
16. Pivot the caliper down into position. Install the flange bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified torque.

pic 7

17. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels.
18. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work.

NOTE: Engagement may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke.

19. Add brake fluid as needed.
20. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then recheck for leaks.

Inspection - Si Model
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and outer pad (C). Do not include the thickness of the backing plate.

pic 8

4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace the front brake pads as a set.
5. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels.

Replacement - Si Model
1. Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. Remove the flange bolt (A) while holding the caliper pin (B) with a wrench. Be careful not to damage the pin boot, and pivot the caliper (C) up out of the way. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.

pic 9

5. Remove the pad shims (A) and brake pads (B).

pic 10

6. Remove the pad retainers (A).

pic 11

7. Clean the caliper bracket (B) thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks. Verify that the caliper pins (C) move in and out smoothly. Clean and lube if needed.
8. Inspect the brake disc, and check for damage and cracks.
9. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the retainers on their mating surfaces (indicated by the arrows) against the caliper bracket.
10. Install the pad retainers. Wipe excess assembly paste off the retainers. Keep the assembly paste off the brake disc and brake pads.
11. Mount the brake caliper piston compressor tool (A) on the caliper body (B).

pic 12

12. Press in the piston with the brake caliper piston compressor so the caliper will fit over the brake pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting the caliper down.

NOTE: Be careful when pressing in the piston; brake fluid might overflow from the master cylinder's reservoir.

13. Remove the brake caliper piston compressor tool.
14. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the pad side of the shims (A), the back of the brake pads, (B) and the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads. Contaminated brake discs or brake pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease and assembly paste off the brake disc and brake pads.

pic 13

15. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the brake pad with the wear indicator (C) on the upper inside. If you are reusing the brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency.
16. Pivot the caliper down into position. Install the flange bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified torque while holding the caliper pin (B), with a wrench being careful not to damage the pin boot.

17. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels.
18. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work.

NOTE: Engagement may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke.

19. Add brake fluid as needed.
20. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then recheck for leaks.

______________________________

Rotor Replacement

2008 Honda Civic L4-1.8L
Front Brake Disc Replacement
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Rotor/Disc Service and Repair Removal and Replacement Front Front Brake Disc Replacement
FRONT BRAKE DISC REPLACEMENT
Front Brake Disc Replacement

NOTE: Keep any grease off the brake disc and brake pads.

1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
2. Remove the front wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.

pic 14

4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the brake disc flat screws (A).

pic 15

6. Remove the brake disc (B) from the front hub.

NOTE: If the brake disc is stuck to the front hub, thread two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (C) into the brake disc to push it away from the front hub. Turn each bolt 90 degrees at a time to prevent the brake disc from binding.

7. Install the brake disc in the reverse order of removal.

NOTE: Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the front hub and the inside of the brake disc.

8. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheel.
______________________________________

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care and God Bless,

Joe
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JKACJA
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,000 MILES
Are the threads on the calipers bolts reversed from top to bottom?
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

Both bolts are right hand threads, you may have one that has been fitted with a locking compound, if it has been cross threaded and is binding up, you may need a replacement caliper as the alloy in the housing will tear out the thread, there will be nothing that you can do about it, so just work it easy and hopefully it is sealed in and not damaged.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SAIKOKOZAW
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 HONDA CIVIC
  • 77,000 MILES
I have honda civic 2006 model k20 engine. Last week brake warning light come on?
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MEMBER
Hello, I'm Danny.

The brake warning light may have come on due excessive wear on the brake pads causing the level of brake fluid in the brake master cylinder to drop below required level. This is a tutorial for you to view on how to change front brake pads and rotors:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

I've attached picture steps below on how to change the front brake pads on your car. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TIMPOP
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 43,000 MILES
I recently attempted to install new brake pads on my 2005 Honda Civic Ex, and the calipers did not slip over the pads properly. The pistons were properly compressed, the brake pads are the correct type, but the caliper got caught up on the pads before they even reached the piston. There is some slight rust build-up on the calipers, but I don't believe that that is the issue.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi Timpop,

Thank you for the donation.

Are the slider bolts stiff? The caliper must be able to slide freely in and out.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_BrakeFrt05Civic_1.jpg

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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TIMPOP
  • MEMBER
I assume that the slider bolts are what the caliper is attached to. If that's the case, then no, the slider bolts are not stiff. I was able to slide the calipers to a centralized position with the brake pads.

Something worth noting is that with sufficient hammering of the calipers I may be able to get them over the pads. I don't believe that that's how it should work though. Not to mention that it has the tendency to knock the shim pads out of place.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi Timpop,

Based on what you described, either the pads are too thick or not seated fully or the pistons are not pushed fully back, there should be a little more movement available.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NAVIGATORCRUISE
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 63,000 MILES
Dear Boss.

Please give me an idea. Everytime I started and move my car in the morning, it makes silly sound in the front.I guess it's the brakes. Waiting for your serious response. Thank you so much. Appreciated.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)

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