Brake bleeding

Tiny
TOOSOC
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 CHRYSLER NEW YORKER
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 81,000 MILES
One day the brake pedal went all the way to the floor. I attempted to bleed the brakes I started with the rear passenger side and got no fluid. I tried the rear drivers side and got no fluid. I got fluid from the two front. I purchased a new master cylinder, when I was installing the new master cylinder I broke one of the bolts on the brake booster. I purchased a new brake booster install booster and master cylinder. I attempted to bleed the brakes again and got same thing at this point I checked the pads and shoes. Needed new shoes so I replaced and put new shoes. I attempted to bleed again this time I got no fluid from rear passenger. I did get fluid from all three other lines. I don't know what to do next.
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Monday, April 13th, 2020 AT 8:19 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good afternoon,

I attached the procedure for bleeding for you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Do you have a vacuum booster or a hydraulic booster?

Roy

PRESSURE BLEEDING

The brake lines can be bled using a standard diaphragm type pressure bleeding system. Use only a diaphragm type system to prevent contaminants from entering the system.
1. Ensure ignition remains off for the entire procedure.
2. Depressurize the hydraulic accumulator as outlined under "Booster Bleeding."
3. Disconnect electrical connector from fluid level sensor, then remove reservoir cap.
4. Install pressure bleeder adapter, then attach bleeding equipment to adapter. Charge pressure bleeder to 20 psi.
5. Connect a transparent hose to caliper bleed screw, and submerge the other end in a clear container, partially filled with clean brake fluid.
6. Turn pressure bleeder on, then open caliper bleed screw 1/2-3/4 turn allowing fluid to escape until no more air bubbles are present. If reservoir has been drained, or hydraulic assembly removed prior to bleeding, pump the brake pedal slowly one or two times with bleed screw open to purge air from hydraulic assembly.
7. Repeat step 6 for each caliper in the following order: LR-RR-LF-RF.
8. After bleeding all calipers, close the pressure bleeder valve and torque to 7.5 lb-ft, then slowly unscrew the bleeder adapter from the hydraulic assembly reservoir.
9. Use a syringe or other method to remove excess fluid from reservoir and adjust to the full mark.
10. Install reservoir cap, connect the fluid level sensor connector, and turn on ignition to allow pump to charge the accumulator.

MANUAL BLEEDING

1. Depressurize the hydraulic accumulator as outlined under "Booster Bleeding."
2. Connect a transparent host to caliper bleed screw, and place the other end of hose in a transparent container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
3. Slowly pump brake pedal several times with full strokes of the brake pedal. Allow about five seconds between pedal strokes. After two or three strokes, continue holding pedal under pressure at the bottom of its travel.
4. Open the bleed screw 1/2-3/4 turn. Keep screw open until fluid no longer comes out from bleeder, then tighten bleeder screw and release brake pedal.
5. Repeat this procedure until air bubbles are no longer present in fluid coming from bleeder hose.
6. Repeat for all wheels in the following order: LR-RR-LF-RF.
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Monday, April 13th, 2020 AT 10:24 AM
Tiny
TOOSOC
  • MEMBER
None of that helped. I know how to bleed brakes. None of that worked. Any other suggestions?
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 11:55 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
If you got all the air out of the system and you do not have a pedal, I would try using some vice grips on the brake hoses. Clamp off the brake hoses with vice grips. Do all of them at the same time. See if you have a pedal. If you do, then you have an issue at one of the wheels.

If you do not, then your issue is the master cylinder itself not holding pressure.

Roy
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Wednesday, April 15th, 2020 AT 6:00 AM
Tiny
TOOSOC
  • MEMBER
After going through all of that I removed the brake lines and pushed compressed air through them and all are clear but still no fluid to rear passenger side. So the only other thing is the proportion valve. Can that be rebuilt? I have checked everywhere and no one has it or can get it.
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Thursday, April 16th, 2020 AT 10:08 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
No, it cannot be rebuilt at all.

Did you not have a pedal when you clamped off the lines?

Does this have ABS brake unit?

Roy
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Thursday, April 16th, 2020 AT 2:37 PM
Tiny
TOOSOC
  • MEMBER
How do I tell if I have a PV2/PV4 porpotion valve?
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Sunday, April 19th, 2020 AT 9:44 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
It should be stamped on the valve itself.

Clean up the old one and look for the stamping.

Roy
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Sunday, April 19th, 2020 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
TOOSOC
  • MEMBER
The only stamp on the part is 628 0108.
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Sunday, April 19th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
That is a PV4.

Roy
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Sunday, April 19th, 2020 AT 9:55 AM

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