When I start the car it idles very rough and bogs down?

Tiny
PIT456
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 BMW 528
Help! I have a 1997 BMW 528i 2.8L automatic with high mileage at 169000. I just recently gave it a tune up about 500 miles ago. Including replacing the spark plugs and spark plug wires. I also had a gasket replaced 500 miles ago. The mechanic told me that the bad gasket was allowing oil to leaking into the engine, and it was dripping on the spark plugs. Causing the car to “miss” and shake constantly. Also, about 20000 miles ago I had both fuel pumps replaced. The mechanic told me that both fuel pumps, front and back pumps were no good. Now recently I have run into another problem. When I start the car it idles very rough and bogs down as if it’s going to die out. This bogging and shaking will last for about 10 to 12 seconds then the car revs up slightly and it goes back to normal. Or when I start the car and it starts to bog, I will give the car a slight rev myself. This seems to stop the bogging instantly. It seems to happen if the car is cold or warmed up. After the bogging stops by me stopping it, or the car, it runs perfect. No shaking or missing at all driving or at stops idling. The problem is only present on starts. The car has never did this before. Please help


7/16/07 Now the car seems to be getting worse. Now the idle at starts will shake constantly until I give it a slight rev. The car will no longer rev up by itself after 10 to 12 seconds, it will just shake, “miss“ and bog until I rev the engine to stop it. There is no check engine light or service engine light on. I called around to some local mechanics and one told me that they wanted to do an “intake charge clean” at the price of $275. He told me that it probably wouldn’t help my problem but that it couldn’t hurt. Others told me that, and I quote lol, “Well it is normal but it’s not normal.” They said to bring the car in and for $89 they would tell me if I just had to, “live with it“. Other’s told me to just “live with it for the next 50 to 75 thousand miles.” Can anyone just tell me how to fix the problem lol. I’m planning on selling the car soon, and I’m sure that the potential buyers won’t like the idle shuttering on the test drive, and I just cant tell them “live with it” lol. Please help I don’t know where else to turn.

By the way, two weeks ago I made a small donation of $10. But like an idiot I clicked make small donation without even logging into my membership at Professional Mechanics Online. So if you see a random $10 paypal donation from Renay, yeah, that would be me lol.



7/25/07- I finally found the receipt on the work I had done to the car 500 miles ago. It included spark plugs (6) $120.94, Ignition coils (6) $473.50, spark plug connecters $78, and $212 labor charge. That was all for the tune up. Now you said that it “sounds like one or more coils have failed.” That is great news knowing that the parts and labor are still covered under the mechanics warranty of 12 month 12000 mile warranty. Thanks so much. Professional mechanics online has been a great help.


Again, Thanks!
Saturday, June 23rd, 2007 AT 5:10 PM

1 Reply

Tiny
DOCHAGERTY
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,601 POSTS
This sounds like you have a vacuum leak or the IAC motor is not working correctly. Here are two guides to help us find the problem the first one only do when the engine is cold.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Here is the location of the IAC motor so you can check it out. You can also see if one of the hoses for the idle circuit has a tear or hole that needs to be repaired. Check out the images (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 AT 4:40 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links