Bent lower control arm

Tiny
MONEYSAM83
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 210,000 MILES
Here is the background I went to customers house to change the driver side lower control arm which obviously was bent at the bottom due to impact with the curb, I checked the sub-frame all the welds are in tact, no visual bends, but what noticed after I changed the lower control arm the drive knuckle also has a huge crack so I told them they have to change that, now the main question I have is am I going to have to change the strut too? The wheel is still slanted due to impact on the driver side the lower control arm is new. The wheel is poked out at the top a lot.
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Tuesday, June 28th, 2016 AT 2:48 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
If you changed the knuckle and did not get it aligned may be the reason it is out at the top. You cannot really eyeball the alignment.
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Tuesday, June 28th, 2016 AT 3:35 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
The first thing I would look at is the two lower mounting holes on the strut body. They are perfectly round from the factory, but aftermarket struts come with an elongated lower hole to make them adjustable. Even if these are original, the lower hole can be ground to an oval shape when camber needs to be adjusted. If that lower hole is slotted, the adjustment could have slipped from the impact.

If the strut is bent, they usually make the wheel tip in on top. That is from a crash with another car. When the bottom of the wheel hits a curb, there is usually too little leverage to bend the strut. The lower control arm, then the wheel are more likely to be what gets bent. Look at the space between the top of the tire's sidewall and the strut body, and compare that on both sides. If the gap is bigger on the left side, then the strut may indeed be bent.

I am not sure what you mean by "drive knuckle". Are you referring to the outer cv joint?
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Tuesday, June 28th, 2016 AT 3:44 PM
Tiny
MONEYSAM83
  • MEMBER
I have not got the knuckle yet, but a friend of mine told me I was going to have to change the strut too. Is that true?
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Tuesday, June 28th, 2016 AT 3:44 PM
Tiny
MONEYSAM83
  • MEMBER
The drive spindle the part that holds the axle that is what I meant by drive knuckle.
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Tuesday, June 28th, 2016 AT 3:55 PM
Tiny
MONEYSAM83
  • MEMBER
I am going show you a picture @cardiodoc.
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Tuesday, June 28th, 2016 AT 7:45 PM
Tiny
MONEYSAM83
  • MEMBER
This is with the wheel straight.
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Wednesday, June 29th, 2016 AT 9:29 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Check your tie rod ends inner and outer they are either way out of adjustment on one side or bent badly. Do not drive this car like that it will shred the tire in no time flat. Have a professional look at it to see what is really bent you may have wasted your money on the control arm.
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Wednesday, June 29th, 2016 AT 10:17 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Yup. Your last sentence in your original post said, "The wheel is poked out at the top a lot." This is turned to the left and that is not a strut or control arm issue. If that was the case, you solved that already. This is something different, and as brother HMAC300 said, it is a tie rod issue. The wheel is turned too much for this to simply be out-of-adjustment. There is not that much adjustment in the threads. The tie rods on this car are behind the wheels, so one that is bent will cause that wheel to turn away from the center of the car, like this one is. You wont bend the outer tie rod end. It is too short. The inner one is real long and it is the weakest part in the system.
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Wednesday, June 29th, 2016 AT 11:39 PM
Tiny
MONEYSAM83
  • MEMBER
I changed the spindle/drive knuckle that solved the problem
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Tuesday, July 19th, 2016 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Dandy. Happy to hear it's solved. Come back and see us again.
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Tuesday, July 19th, 2016 AT 5:39 PM
Tiny
MONEYSAM83
  • MEMBER
Ok
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Wednesday, August 3rd, 2016 AT 8:59 PM

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