Battery will not charge

Hello,

This could be a problem with the wiring going from the alternator to the battery. In the diagrams down below I have included a wiring diagram of your vehicle's charging system. Please double check that all the wires are tight and connected securely, as well as the electrical connectors from the alternator to the battery. I have them highlighted on the wiring diagram for you. Please get back to us with what you are able to find.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Where is the voltage regular located on this vehicle? I am having problem keeping the battery charged

It's an integral regulator, meaning it's bolted to the back of your alternator...Use a voltmeter at the battery terminals, see what the alt is putting out, you want 13.8-15 volts with all lights and accessories on. If OK replace battery, if weak replace both battery and alt! You want a fully charged battery in place with a new alternator, or you can damage the new alternator!

The alternator is not charging. Yes, it has been replaced as well as the battery. The charge light in the dash does not illuminate. I have checked the bulb in the cluster and it is good. I have no voltage reaching alternator through that circuit. Can the charge light in cluster create the open in charge circuit that is preventing the alternator field circuit from "turning on the alternator"? And does that charge circuit from battery light run at all through the G.E.M module?

Good morning.

Attached is a diagram for the charging system. the light is controlled by a fuse in the junction box. that is what powers the light.
check for power on both sides of the fuse and then check for power at the connector for the cluster. it could be the cluster or it may be just the fuse.

Roy

New battery will not charge. New alt/reg did not solve problem. During testing, grounding the regulator proved 18 volts from alternator. New regulator and known good regulator all act the same.
At one point, grounding the regulator would make the system work properly until engine was shut down. This no longer happens.
Followed testing procedures laid out in Haynes manual and everything says replace regulator. Does not fix problem

Follow the orange with lt. blue wire from the alternator and look for a 20amp inline fuse and check that.
Also check all the fuses in the under dash fuse box. There is a 10amp fuse there associated with the alternator but I don't know what it's labeled. Use a test light to check them all for power at both ends with the key on.

The mini fuse is intact as well as all the fuses in the circuit. Power is where it's supposed to be and grounds are intact. The alternator puts out 18 volts when the IAR is grounded at the test point.

Wiggle tests showed no irregularities and I'd rather not be opening the harness unless I have to. The circuit is fairly simple with only a clutch interrupt switch and ignition switch involved. I get the feeling this is a unique problem and am totally stumped as to how to proceed.

Being able to ground the IAR and have the system work properly is really throwing me, especially since now it no longer does that. This is making absolutely no sense.

BTW-thanks for responding. I was an ASE certified Ford wrench for ten years specializing in EECIV systems and driveability. I've never run across this.

If you don't want to listen I'll just go help someone else. Good luck.

[quote:b27a1e96a3="Wrenchtech"]If you don't want to listen I'll just go help someone else. Good luck.[/quote:b27a1e96a3]
Did I miss something about what you said? The org/lt blue wire runs to the fuse you mentioned and turns into a yel/wht wire. Continuity checks and voltage drop checks all show normal. All fuses were checked after your advice with no irregularities, including those in the power distribution box.

I'm sorry. I got the impression you disagreed and blew off the checks.

The alternator is a self contained unit so if all the inputs and outputs are correct, then it has to charge, assuming the alternator is good.

Verify power coming in on the orange/lt blue and the lg/red with the key one. Verify there power at the main terminal with the key off and that the alternator is grounded.

No it's my turn to apologize for the negative feedback I gave after your snarky response.

There is no power on the lt grn/red wire with KOEO. A test vehicle right beside this one confirms there should be. This line comes from the instrument panel charge indicator so I believe you've given me a direction to go in. I will be back after I trace the wire backwards from the alternator.

What is your experience with where I might find the problem in the circuit?

TY again.

Green red comes from the fuse in the dash box through the charge light in the dash so it could be interrupted at the back of the cluster. It's white/yellow from the fuse to the light.

It's even simpler than that. You'll get a kick out of this. When I checked the fuses in the fuse box earlier today I physically took each one out and looked at it. Then your advice got me back there checking again with the same results-everything's OK.

Rather than yank the cluster out I went to the fuse box again and was going to work up from there. Well, the 5 amp mini fuse in the circuit (#19)was still OK BUT when I put it back earlier I put it in the slot above where it was supposed to go. DOH!-I boned myself. Your check at the IAR connector is what got me there and I can't thank you enough.

How do I get you $ for this-you certainly earned it?

Glad you found it.

I don't need money but if you can leave another positive or fix the feedback it would be nice. I don't even know if that is possible.

Unfortunately I get a message about "spreading it around" when I try to give you points and I don't see a way to retract it. I will try tomorrow (maybe it resets the points thing.)

Thank you again.

question have done all the things you have listed no charge?
i can hook up to other vehicle with jumpers and shows charge? where should i look oh by the way new alt and bat

sorry ment this for Wrenchtech

I had the alternator checked it is okay, the battery is good. I have checked all the fusses they are okay. checked the charge relay it is okay. I need to know does the GEM module have any thing to do with the charge system?

Does the "Battery" warning light turn on when you turn on the ignition switch? Does it turn off once the engine is running? How was the generator tested and what were the results?

Go the voltage regulator's plug and check for 12 volts on the yellow / white wire by back-probing through the rubber weather seal. If that's missing, the 20-amp fuse is blown.

Check for 12 volts on the generator's large output terminal. If that's missing, it will be missing on the yellow / white wire too. Check the 175-amp fuse and be sure its nuts are tight.

If you have both of those, check for voltage on the light green / red wire when the ignition switch is in the "run" position. You should find around 2.0 volts. If you find it's near 12 volts and the dash warning light is not on, there's a bad connection between the mating terminals in that plug.

If all those voltages are okay, run the engine, then measure the battery voltage. You should find between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If it stays near 12.6 volts or less, ground the "F" terminal on the back of the voltage regulator. If charging voltage goes way up, the regulator is defective.

I bought a new alternator about two months ago and a new battery at the same time. The alternator still was not charging the new battery. So then I ordered the voltage regulator plug in the ten plug that goes on the other side of the alternator and I drove it to O'Reilly's because it still was not charging correctly. So then they put the tester that they have on it had and said it was a alternator but then when I took it off they tested it inside and said it was not the alternator that it could have been the wiring. So they did not sell the wire for the alternator so I had it jumped off and I tried to head home with it, but I ended up stranded across the road beside a convenience store. Is there a fusible inline fuse or something that I am missing is that what could be what the problem is?

I do not know why auto parts guys think they know everything about a vehicle they only sell parts nothing else. there are three fusible links and a fuse which any of them could be bad see picture to check them. they should have 12 volts on each side wiggle them as they may only have one or two strands connecting.

You need to take it in to a shop to have it checked out unless you know how to do a voltage drop test on the battery cables. Had a customer throw 4 alternators on his car until he decided to come see me. When doing a voltage drop on the ground cable I found just a little over 4 volts still on the cable. Found the ground cable bolted at block was corroded. Cleaned the terminal and block and all was good. And if you want to know the voltage dropped down to .02 volts. If you have a decent volt meter I can guide you through the steps.

how do i teel if my alternator is bad or if its my voltage regulator. The trouble light is on and the battery charge gauge is reading in the discharge area. The truck still started and ran for about a week and a half. The battery is about 8 mounths old. i am no great mechanic but need to try to fix myself. Thank You.

It sounds like the voltage regulator might be loose. Here is a guide to help you see how to test the connection and the alternator wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please run down these guides and report back

Cheers

I had this problem it was the fusible link was blown, FYI.

I all of a sudden started losing lights, stereo, and all electrical components my a/c quit blowing cold air and even on hi was blowing slowly then the truck died completely I
had somoeone jump me and started up drove a few blocks and it died again got a second jump and allowed to charge a little longer drove a few more blocks than before and it died again. I figured it was the alternator not charging the battery next morning replaced alternator and fully charged battery before cranking up the truck, it started right up but when i put my volt meter on battery it only read about 12.5 volts and was slowly but steadily dropping voltage

What kind of alternator do you have ? with internal or external voltage regulator?

check fuses check wiring check for battery power at the B terminal

Two days ago driving down the road all lights dimmed really quick. Realizing that I believed the alternator just fried got to a safe place that I could work on it took both battery and alternator and had them tested both were bad. Come to find out it has a 1989 alternator with external voltage regulator in it. Changed alternator and battery, but not voltage regulator. Last night it sat for maybe an hour and a half (nothing was left on) tried to start it and all I heard was a loud pop (one click) noise coming from the voltage regulator and nothing. Tried to jump it and did same thing one click nothing. Tapped on starter solenoid, test diode fuses and every other fuse. Battery is completely drained. What could be the issue or how can I fix this?

I managed to get it figured out the screw that allows it to engage was not positioned correctly. Now that I have it set I am going to find something to keep it from moving and call it a day.

Thanks for the update. That is great that you got it figured out. I am attaching the wiring diagram for not only your future use but also, for others that may have this issue. While you figured out that your vehicle was installed with the wrong alternator the voltage regulator was external. This vehicle should have a voltage regulator as part of the alternator.

Here is a guide on how to test the alternator:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Please view the wiring diagram below for more info. Thanks and let us know if you have other questions. Thanks

I cannot make it ten miles down the road before it shuts off. i have replaced alternator and the battery is brand new. it is also not shifting right, it just revs up and I have to put it into drive. please help me.

Can you do a current draw test? do you have a multi meter with at least a 10 amp current draw setting? a open circuit that is drawing the battery down, remove battery positive (+) terminal and attach to one lead of multi-meter attach other lead of
multi-meter to positive (+) battery post, with gauge set on Amps and with key off and all doors closed read current draw. if above say .05 Amps something will be on, there will be some draw down on any system that has memory, clocks and radios etc, and causing the battery to drain down. if you have a high reading, start pulling fuses one at a time and see if you can isolate the circuit that is drawing current, start here.

New alternator not charging.

Do you mind giving us some more information please?
Is it a brand new alternator? OE or aftermarket? How do you know that the alternator is not working and what diagnostic procedures did you use?
Have you checked the alternator power cable? I would do a voltage drop test across the cable, anything above 0.4 volts would be concerning.

Here is a link below that should help you out:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator