Will not start at times

SAAILER

MEMBER
1993 ACURA INTEGRA

Four cylinder front wheel drive manual 137,000 miles

once every couple weeks no start. Turn key hear audible click but starter will not spin. Battery new, starter new (replaced it twice to be sure), cables new, alternator working (12vdc engine off 4.2 vdc engine running). Replaced connector which leads from ignition to starter.

Weeks pass and same symptom occurs.

All that is left, I believe, is the main relay aka starter relay.

Could this relay be located somewhere under the dash, be the problem?

If so can you help me locate it? Acura parts describes it as three inches in length and four bolted under dash on drivers side. However a discount auto parts guy tells me no, no it is much smaller and held by one bolt through a bracket on the passenger side. Help me please. Saailer

6 Replies

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,815 POSTS

Hi Saailer,

Thank you for the donation.

Main relay and starter relay are two different things. Starter non cranking is not related to PGM-FI main relay.

https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_PGMFIRelay93Integra_3.jpg" alt="
https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_PGMFIRelay93Integra_3.jpg" />

The starter relay could be the problem but we need to verify the problem.
1 Where is the clicking noise coming from? inside vehicle or from starter?
2. Did you try using a remote wire to crank the starter with direct power from battery?

It could be a faulty ignition switch that is failing and not providing sufficient contact and power draw to crank the starter.

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Friday, February 6th, 2009 AT 4:54 PM

SAAILER

MEMBER
20 POSTS

Clicking sound is inside car. Have not tried direct battery to starter, however if you jump it car starts immediately.

I am inclined to agree it is the ignition switch/lock. It is $294.83 at discount auto. Would prefer to try starter relay. I am not quite clear where starter relay is located. Is diagram pointing under the dash? Can you describe relay or better yet offer a part number? Hate to be a pest but physical description/or part number is a necessity at dealership.

This problem can leave in a heart beat so I never have control of it and therefore cannot be sure if anything I try has validity.

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Saturday, February 7th, 2009 AT 8:33 PM

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,815 POSTS

Hi,

Thank you for the reputations points, it is very much appreciated.

Now that looks fishy. With a jump start if it starts immediately it should a problem with power supply rather than anything else. It could be a weak battery or bad connections. Since there is a clicking noise emitted, it should not be the ignition noise.

Try cleaning the battery terminals and re-tightening the ground terminals at the transmission side, look for frayed wires.

If it does not help, test the battery voltage when problem arises. It would be good to get a high rate discharge test on the battery.

As for the relay, I am sorry I could not find any close-up pictures to show you. It is the normal four pin relay that is common with the headlight or fan relays. You can try swapping them instead getting a replacement part. Try swapping with the head light relays, they could be easily removed and if the relay is bad, at least it would not affect any important engine functional components.

Does the dash indicator lights remain on and fully lit when ignition turned to "start"?
Does engine cranks after a few tries?
When engine does crank, does the starter seem slow at times, as if it is laboring to turn over?

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Saturday, February 7th, 2009 AT 10:03 PM

SAAILER

MEMBER
20 POSTS

Battery is brand new. Cables both plus and minus are new. (New= two weeks).

Dash lights dim slightly, but stay on will not start after a few tries, starter never seems slow, when it cranks, it cranks normal with normal start when it is bad just a click.

Car has been well taken care of and is in a very high state of tune.

Once again I do not want to mislead, when it happens it can remain bad until jumped or trouble may clear if key is held over for ten to twenty seconds.

All connections are tight and clean. Methinks holding the key over for twenty seconds. Indicates current is burning through a restive contact, ie ignition or relay. I am going to swap relays. I will let you know if trouble then follows into the headlights.

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Sunday, February 8th, 2009 AT 8:48 AM

SAAILER

MEMBER
20 POSTS

I believe I have found the problem.

The ten gauge black wit white tracer ignition wire that has a female fast-on connector had a break (not all the way through) about six inches back from where it plugs into the starter solenoid. This particular run takes two wicked bends on its way from the harness.

I replaced the bad section, installed a new fast-on, and re-routed it with a more direct approach.

I installed a new ground strap from transmission to body.
Main battery ground connected to a bracket on transmission. The bracket did not make clean connect to transmission body. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled bracket using the main bolt for battery ground. Rather than the small bolt on bracket end.

You can hear the difference when starter motor runs; crisp and much quicker. Voltage on the battery terminals when car is at idle is.4vdc higher.

These two observations plus the fact that, "hope burns eternal in the soul of the back-yard mechanic", have me convinced trouble is fixed.

Then again, I felt the same way after I; changed battery, starter motor, battery cables.