Engine Performance problem
1990 Acura Integra 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 210000 miles
i recently had some cyl head work done and replaced the timing belt, water pump, timing tensioner, and a buch of other stuff. I got it all together and it cranked right up. It runs and idles fine but I am hearing a ticking noise. It sounds more like it is comming from the distributer than a knocking valve, but I am not certain. Also, when I touched the distributer, I got shocked for about 5 seconds. I didnt see any loose wires or anything. Also when I rev it up, it is much more hesitant than it was before I took everything apart. What could this ticking noise be and why did I get shocked?
March, 2, 2009 AT 1:49 PM
There is a leakage of high tension sparks and possible causes are: 1. Faulty or loosely connected plug wire.
2. Shorted spark plugs.
3. Incorrect firing order.
4. Bad distributor cap.
March, 2, 2009 AT 2:07 PM
What about the ticking noise? It also has a lack of power. But it does not miss. I never took the wires off of the distributer. I replaced the spark plugs. I dont see any faulty wires anywhere either. Also, what kind of performance should I see if I might have installed the timing belt wrong by one notch on one of the cams?
March, 2, 2009 AT 2:45 PM
The ticking noise could be caused by the sparks jumping. Recheck if the distributor end wire had been propely seated, movement sometimes doslodges them if they were not securely connected in the first place.
Another possibility is the distributor bearing is failing or the timing belt tension is loose.
If the cam timing is off, you would have performance problem, erratic idling and starting might be affected.
Performance drop might not be too much but still noticeable.
Ohm test the plug wires. Should have continuity and below 25k ohms.
March, 10, 2009 AT 9:13 AM
I just replaced the distributor cap, rotor, and plugs and wires. I am still hearing a small ticking noise. It still sounds like its comming from the distributor side. Or the intake cam at least. It does lessen after it has been running for a little while. I also noticed yesterday when I put the pedal to the floor, it was hesitant. Sortof jumped a little. Like a lack of fuel or fouled plugs. The noise also lessened when I put new gas in it. It had about a gallon of gas left in the tank that was about six months old. And I drained it, then put new fuel in and it started running a little better. But didnt fix the problem
March, 10, 2009 AT 11:42 AM
Did you check the ignition timing after replacing the distributor?
Recheck the valve clearance as well.
March, 10, 2009 AT 11:49 AM
How do I check for valve clearance and the ignition timing. I could see where the distributor was before I took it off and put it back in the same position. I did see that it could be adjusted by turning the distributor. What is the correct position?
March, 10, 2009 AT 12:24 PM
You need a timing light to check the timing. On the crank pulley you would notice timing marks when the timing light is pointed at it.
The 3 marks with a red one at center is the ignition timing at idle.
March, 30, 2009 AT 1:01 PM
I just did a lot of work to this car. I replaced the spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, water pump, hoses, coolant switch, spark plugs, had the head reworked, installed new timing belt, timing covors, changed all the fluids, fuel pump, gas tank, belts, hoses, and a bunch of gaskets (including head gasket). I was sure to torque it down at the right torque specs. About a week ago, I finished putting everything back together and my valves were making noises. I figured out it was my timing belt. It was a little loose. Right after I cranked it, it ran fine for about 5 minutes, then I hit the gas pedal and it died. I checked the injectors and could hear them pulsing. My check engine light also came on (it was not on before and had run just fine except for the valve noise). After I let it idle for a little while (which it is idling at the lowest point before it dies) I hit the gas and it slowly accelerated. Then I hit the gas and let off several times, the last time I did it, it accelerated to 5 thousand rmps and died. I can crank it right back up, but cannot accelerate the motor. Also, when I was letting it run, it was running at normal operating temperature. I noticed it started burning oil and a saw a puddle of moisture coming out of the tail pipe. It only does this after the car has warmed up. It runs just fine until it warms up at normal operating temperature. My question is what could this be? How can I check the check engine light code?
March, 31, 2009 AT 8:16 AM
You can read the codes from the ECU.
March, 31, 2009 AT 10:14 AM
What about the water comming out of the tail pipe? My engine light turned off and only turns on once the car warms up. And it starts acting up once the car warms up also.