Acts like transmission is not engaged, but the engine does not rev sitting in park---Jeep Compass

Cleaned throttle thoroughly as suggested, with Seafoam. Nothing changed. Pulled 6 codes at Autozone. 4 of 6 transmission related, P0700.P161B, P0730, P0777, P0113, P0420.
Did not perform Fuel Pressure check. Yet. However, drove the usual distance that it takes before the vehicle begins to fail as I describe. Parked vehicle at home and took idle up to 2000RPMs and held it steady for 15 minutes(in park). Allowed engine to settle to normal park idle. Revved engines 10 times. Engine responsive the entire time. SHifted the gears from Park to Drive 10 times. Revved engine. Engine remained responsive. Backed the car up about 50 feet, put car in drive and drove back into parking space. Repeated this and by the 6th time in DRIVE and REVERSE, the FAULT condition appeared. Pressed the gas pedal to floor, no engine response, held pedal to floor and counted 3 seconds before the engine began to rev slowly then shot up tp 4K and the vehicle lunged forward. Parked the vehicle. Pressed gas pedal, FAULT condition remained. Shut engine off, pulled key out and opened door(simulate exit). Restarted engine. Pressed gas pedal, ENGINE RESPONSIVE. Put car in reverse and repeated to drive in reverse and Drive until FAULT condition reappeared. On 3rd reverse the FAULT APPEARED. Repeated process, turning off engine, etcetera. Each of 4 times the engine was responsive after the engine was shut off and restarted. Keep in mind the engine was thoroughly warmed up, outside temp was about 28*F, It was as if I was resetting the system.

Final note. Transmission has never been serviced(No fluid change or filter change) in 150k miles. Does not leak fluid. Leaning towards changing TXoil and filter(and very carefully, I might add). This is a CVT.

One more. I heard that the TXoil should be green color? Mine is grayish ----just dirty looking.

What I love about my countrymen(USA USA) is that you see more of what the world and people truly are like. The "commoners" love to share information to improve one anothers life and lot. Wisdom and knowledge to one another they impart. While the rest seek to rule over all of this information so they can make tons of money and rule peoples lives. Nothing wrong with money--love of it is evil.

Thank you very much for offering your wisdom and knowledge. From what you shared, you did not fix my problem, but you exposed so many who just see you as "revenue" and nothing more. After they milk you, they slaughter you.

THANKS. I saved 2K. I hope I can get this fixed now. If not I will be back.

Been out of town on business. I decided to get one more look at my car. LIMP MODE and the what the second O2 sensor does is what I need to know.
The car throws codes that say that the O2 sensor is bad and the Catalytic converter is bad. I was told I have a leaky CATCON. I ran an experiment. I unhooked the visible O2 sensor and tried to rev the engine. AHA. The engine barely responded. With the leaky CAT and the fact that my vehicle goes into limp mode(super AND slow gradual response when pressing the gas pedal) when the vehicle is warmed may explain why the trans code says it is slipping. THe trans makes NO funny noises 10 to 15 miles out. Everything is perfect from start up to hitting the highway. The shifting is NEVER abrupt. It is smooth and the same as it always is. The guy says the valve body is damage. But when I dropped the pan and changed the oil, nothing. I have never seen a trans this clean at the magnets. Normal wear. But LIMP MODE has to be explained. DOes it mean that when you do try to give the vehicle gas, it does not respond because of limp mode? See what I am getting at? EVEN WHEN I am in PARK, the engine will NOT rev. And like I said, when I detached the FIRST O2, the vehicle barely responded to the gas pedal. I just cannot believe that any transmission could run so dang smooth and then the ENGINE wont respond to the gas pedal---even in PARK or NEUTRAL? But when you turn the engine off, take keys out, open door and then start it again, everything returns to normal. Sorry, I aint spending 5000 on a new trans or 500 dollars for them to guess like all the other people who I have read have done the same only for the thing to return to the original issue before they junked their vehicle. YOur thoughts? I am already looking for an alternative shop to do my CAT and I am looking to ordering a MOPAR O2 for the CAT

Forgot to add this. My gas mileage has NOT changed very much at all. I get the same winter blend 21mpg. And when they change to summer, I will probably get the same 25-28mpg I have always had.

Hi, I have same problem did you fixed your car.

To Myjeep87. Finally, I had a chance to spend a moment with my vehicle. I decided to swap out the throttle body(had my old one that gave me lightning bolt and other symbols over two years ago--I had cleaned it up and willing to try anything). It was a warm day in 60's and I had already driven about 10 miles so the vehicle was heated up already.

The vehicle ran out better than it ever did---it was llike it had always been before this "CVT" issue. In -10 weather, for a month, I could not drive it for an hour before the RPMs creeped up from 2300 to 3000 when I pulled off from a full rested stop. I was able to drive this thing up and down the streets for 2 hours--speed about 40-45mph--a first. Then I dared myself and took the freeway and drove a mile and then got off and did this 3 or 4 times plus street driving for another hour. I was shocked. FOr a little more than 3 hours non-stop there was no sign of hesitation, the RPMs were consistent all the way through at 2100-2300. It shifted as it used to. I finally tried to put the car in autostick mode and drive and it did not like that and that was the first time the vehicle went into limp mode.

I know my codes were for transmission 700 and 730 and the dealership and independent were saying swap the CVT, but this had me thinking that maybe all this needs is good CVT oil change/flush. I kept the heater off so this thing could really heat up( it used to fail when it got to operating temperature). If I can ever get the chance I will take it to a shop I had contacted a month ago and explain this progress.
Keep in mind that I have been driving the vehicle 5 miles to a friends and then carpooling the rest of the way to work for 3 months now.

I want to make darn sure that my CVT is really an issue before I spend any money having it replaced. I wonder if anyone has legitimate used CVT's that do not cost a total of $3000 to have installed, this is insane. I bought used vehicles and drove them into the ground. Had 142 on an old Volvo, and put 80k on it. Had a Camry with 70K and put 270K before the floor rusted out. Had a Saab with 100k and added 110K. Never had to do anything much to them. I get a new one and it dies at 150K? And all miles were highway(45 to 65mph)? What a freaking ripoff.

I failed emissions and got only one transmission code, which is contrary to what I received previously. Except the one 700 code I pulled, I pulled a P0420, P0455, P0113, B2AAA, P0700, B2A00.

Using a method from I saw on youtube discovered I have a nice crack along the bottom of the manverter leaking exhaust. Imagine a large metal cup and a flat lid on it and it leaks where the two surfaces mate.

This is explains the Bank 1 catalyst code I have received.

Because this system is so computerized, I wonder if I should replace it and it would solve the tranny issue because now information would be more correct.(Best way I can describe). The P0113 code is because I was working on the air cleaner system. And also because I was working on the throttle.

I have been able to drive longer and none of the severe RPM ramp ups.

There is so much going on, maybe one step at a time?

Finally found a transmission shop that could do more than say replace the CVT. The mechanic assessed the vehicle and has tried something with the CVT that has been successful and can give a one year warranty on(instead of the 90days I was getting for used and just 1 year for new).

I will pick up my vehicle in 2 days and we will see if he was able to fix. I will share results after I test it out.

Additional. During the test drive with the mechanic, engine ran great. Great torque.

Also, the Cat will be welded to start(seam crack). There are no weird smells from exhaust, Spark Plugs look normal wear(Iridium).

The transmission guy, Pete, is Pistol Pete. He knew someone who was working on the issues with CVTs. He stayed honest. He had my tranny repaired. It cost a third the cost of replacement and it runs pretty darn good. My vehicle now runs out well but it still has an issue(minor) of when it starts out occasionally, it goes into first to second and then the RPMS drop off and a pause and then it catches gear then does the same at 3 into 4th. However, when I slowly ease on the gas and let it slowly (reasonable speed) gradually accelerate, it runs great. On the highway, it rides great! Good speed. Lilke normal again.

Now I wonder I there is a method by which you train the transmission to shift correctly. Heck. It runs great. No more limp mode! I will continue later. Maybe I should take it to the dealer and let them reflash the computer again. Whatever it takes to get it to learn the gears again. TOo bad they do not share all these secrets

I still owe you. What you said about transmissions was exactly what the mechanic said--the learning curve and they were getting stuck trying to learn how to fix something that would serve the public better --better than tellling someone they need to spend 4-5 grand on a new tranny.

By the way, it seems as though the tranny is slowly learning to shift correctly after 600 miles. Darn thing runs so nice now, I hate to get out of it --and hate to get rid of it.

Thanks

Hi, So what was main reason of fault?
Is that some CVT internal fault or some sensors?
I have still po777 and po700.
Please help where to look valve body or oil pump or something also?

Regards