A/C compressor cycles on and off while driving?

When it was leaking the short cycling was on idle, but when driving the compressor was active all the time and blowed air was not cold enough as it should be, now the situation is opposite, on iddle compressor works continously and air is cold as it should be, when driving it makes short cycles.

I don't have a gauge to measure that but will to it these days.
Tonight, I plan to make some electrical inspections (to be sure if the clutch connector and relay are okay).
I'm going to connect small bulb to the clutch relay power supply and lead it to the cabin (with thin wire) to be able to see if the system cuts out the power to the relay, or maybe the relay cuts out itself.

I quit my plan with bulbs, because I made some connection as showed on the diagram (with small dash bulbs) thinking that when relay receive power first bulb will turn on, and also the second at the same time when it is connected to ground with the closed contact of relay.
(That plan was to check if the relay is losing power from the system, or it is losing contact on switching terminals)

But in reality, something is not as I planned in theory. When I turn the ignition both bulbs turned on, and when started AC, both bulbs turned off :)

Next idea was to try with swapping horn and clutch relays and give some try of couple of days to see if problem still occurs, BUT it was also not possible in practice as in theory, the clutch just turned on and off immediately and then did not come on again. The relays are the same model, but of AC is blue color 30A and of horn is brown color 20A.

Then I turned back to the original position, so today I plan to mechanically open the clutch relay and gently clean the switching contact points and give it a try for a couple of days. If the problem still occur, will ask some AC mechanic to measure the high pressure if it is in the normal range.

Yesterday I went to Ac "mechanic" and he did recharge of the system, saying the refrigerant level is okay. Tonight, I did test driving, and the compressor did the same, 10-15 seconds cycling. Any further advice?

This is pretty complicated for me, but also almost impossible for our "professional mechanics".

I gave a try to the high-pressure switch and will see what will happen.

Explanation: I have done jump test, the high-pressure switch has 4 contacts, two of them are normally closed, so when the connector is removed and those contacts jumped, the clutch turns on and compressor works with both radiator fans running on normal speed, and when other two pins jumped, radiator fans start high speed.

My logical opinion was that when starting A/C the fans work normal, when rising the pressure fans should start run high with clutch still on, and when upper limit of pressure is reached, the fans should still run high, but clutch cut off. (It was just my logic, maybe is wrong)

So, I bought another high-pressure sensor and last night replaced it (normally for my financials - second use) and normally good amount of frayon sprayed out :(

In this case tomorrow or the day after tomorrow I should visit a mechanic to refill the system (because now it still blows cold but makes short cycling even on idle) and see if something will go on better or worse way. Normally I will inform you about the results. In case you have some additional opinions please let me know as soon as possible.

The removed sensor was F68H-19D594-AA 9630, the replaced is F42H-19D594-AA 9949

It is very bad when you live in a small city or small country where every second person is a "pro" for everything.

My father went to two places and had no result.

Yesterday at the technical station for registration of vehicles, they said it is 400g of frayon but we cannot recharge the machine shows there is leak somewhere.

Today on other tech stations the same answer, "the machine beeps saying that there is some leak, if I continue it may explode".

Tomorrow it should be taken to the first of those five mechanics who started the very long story of "reparations" last year. :(

Latest update, we left the car to the "specialist" yesterday morning, and few moments he told my father: I charged the system with paint only and going to wait some more time to find where is leaking :D (funny and sadly at the same time).

I will see, but I doubt if he even knows how to properly discharge and recharge, because here every idiot is an expert

The car is at home, the final answer is the same from the same "mechanic" that gave me one year ago, it leaks from somewhere, but I can't see where, probably the evaporator under the dash is leaking, but I have lot of work now, I can replace it in winter. Tragic and comedic in what miserable country we live.

Tomorrow I'm starting with a new mechanic in the city next to mine, it is not far, just 10km, so we will see what they will concluse. Will let you know.

Tomorrow I should go to bring the car back (now I am at work), the simple and standardised answer was: "It is probably leaking from the evaporator under the dash". So I should try to find another one more mechanic, because as I think it is impossible the evaporator to start leak just from replacing high pressure sensor. Even if it is true, why those 400grams of freon remained, didn't leak away.

Today I took the car at home and tomorrow will drive it to another city near me (50km) and will left there for another inspection (if they even solve something).
In the between-time I would like to ask you if you have evaporator location or removal steps diagram, because if they tell me the same, next step must be to try to reach the evaporator and bring the car to a mechanic to be replaced.

I often think to sell the car, but now I am deeply underwater, because I bought it $1,500, and could sell it not more than $1,200 300, but in these 3 and a half years I spent over $3500 to get nothing :(