ABS and brake light on

If you have both the red "Brake" light and the yellow "ABS" light on, you can assume the yellow one is on because of the red one. The ABS Computer sees the red light on, and that could mean the cause will prevent the ABS from being able to perform properly, so the computer sets a diagnostic fault code, turns the system off, and turns the yellow light on to tell you. To say that a less complicated way, fix the red light and the yellow light will take care of itself, although on some models you have to use a scanner to erase ABS fault codes to get the light to turn off.

The red light turns on for one of three reasons. The most common is the brake fluid level is low in the reservoir. If you have to add some, do not fill it all the way to the "Full" mark. There is either a leak that must be addressed, or the front disc brake pads are worn to the point a typical brake system inspection is called for. When new, thicker pads are installed, the pistons have to be manually pressed back into the caliper housings to make room for them. Doing that pushes all that brake fluid back up that filled in behind the pistons as they gradually worked their way out. That is how all disc brakes self-adjust over time. If someone filled the brake fluid previously, doing this normal procedure during a standard brake job is going to cause the brake fluid to overflow the reservoir, creating a huge mess. Brake fluid eats paint too.

The second thing that turns the red light on is the parking brake. Ford has historically had a lot of trouble with parking brake cables sticking from rust. When one gets stuck in the partially-applied position, the cables don't pull the parking brake pedal back all the way. You can verify that by simply pulling the pedal up with your foot.

The least common cause is the pressure-differential valve is tripped. That valve sits under the master cylinder, in the brass combination valve assembly, with the two metal lines connecting them. That valve moves off-center when unequal pressures build up in the two halves of the hydraulic system. That is due to a leak that can be external, making a wet spot or puddle on the ground, or it can be internal to the master cylinder. With an internal leak in the master cylinder, expect to see the brake pedal go too far to the floor, but you will not be losing brake fluid from the reservoir. When moved off-center, this valve turns on the third switch that turns on the red light. That valve is spring-loaded on GM and Chrysler vehicles, but not on Fords. Recentering it is a lesson in frustration and can be very time-consuming. Before assuming that valve has tripped, unplug the single-wire plug in the middle of the assembly to see if the red light turns off. If the light is still on, you dodged a bullet and one of those other two switches is why the light is on.

Here's a link to an article that might explain this better:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-system-warning-light-on

If you find the front disc brake pads are ready to be replaced, check out this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUCflrTy-d4&list=PLe3kz1i_LrtXIgg0BGhDkW0sPF5l0ScBh&index=95&t=0s

It can be helpful to see it done first if you haven't done this yourself already.

Here's what I found related to the first two fault codes:

C1145 - Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure

Possible causes:
Faulty Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor harness is open or shorted
Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

C1266 - Left Rear Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
Possible causes:
Faulty Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) harness is open or shorted
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) circuit poor electrical connection

This last code you listed means the replacement computer has to be programmed to your specific truck, and it may have to be done by the dealer. That's a trick developed by GM, then eventually every manufacturer copied it.

B2900 FORD - ABS VIN Mismatch