No problem is going to be magically solved by disconnecting the battery but you added a new one. That was done in the '80s and '90s when GM had a huge problem with their Engine Computers, so now a lot of mechanics think that works on all cars.
You may have another problem that we have to deal with but once the battery is disconnected or run dead the Engine Computer has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it has to be in control of idle speed. Until that is done, you won't get the nice idle flare-up to 1500 rpm when you start the engine, it likely won't even start unless you hold the gas pedal down 1/4", (more is not better), it will likely stall when you take your foot off the gas pedal, and it will tend to want to stall at stop signs. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.
The Engine Computer also set a diagnostic fault code for you when the engine originally stalled. You erased that valuable information when you disconnected the battery. If you can get it to stall again while driving, other than when coming to a stop, read the fault code(s). Chrysler makes that much easier than anyone else. Cycle the ignition switch three times from "off" to "run" within five seconds without cranking the engine, leave it in "run", then watch the codes show up in the odometer display. Those will indicate the circuit or system we need to diagnose. No code will be set if it stalls due to not relearning minimum throttle yet.
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Tuesday, May 14th, 2013 AT 9:14 PM