That is correct. One of the radiator connections is directly above the head. With the valve cover removed, I tied the hose back and away from the engine. It is nearly impossible to remove the valve cover without removing the hose and the main engine harness and tying them up and out of the way, unless of course you prefer to lose your mind with rage and place the valve cover somewhere down the street.
The following day, I opened the hood and found that the hose had come loose and went back to it's memorized position and thereby allowing air into the system, which permitted the hose bib, and the hose to flow freely and directly into the head. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell just how much fluid got into the engine, but I'm guessing by the amount absent in the reservoir, possibly as much as 1 quart. However, that doesn't take into consideration the amount of trapped air that could've been present at the time. If by judging by the reservoir alone, then id say no more than a quart.
That said, I then proceeded to change the oil/fluid, and then used fresh oil to run through in the hope that it would drive the fluid out. Fresh oil went in, and right out. I did this several times until I no longer saw any clear liquid coming out of the oil pan. I even jacked up the front end higher than it's intial elevation to ensure that it in fact did come out with the oil. I checked the dipstick, and the oil pan plug the following morning and both were dry as a bone. I then filled the engine with oil as usual. 5 quarts, as recommended.
That said, my issue initially and all along has been the cam shaft cap. The vvt solenoid bolt head on the passenger side, which is the same location as where the fluid dumped into, the bolt head popped off as if it were a limp noodle.
Had I known the trouble it would cause by attempting to remove the root of the tooth, I probably would have sold the truck for parts and purchased a 10 speed from wal mart, as this cheap oriental trash part has caused me to lose 10 years on my life. I removed the cap and it literally fell apart in my hands. Not just small pieces, but sections the size of golf balls. My biggest fear was what was left behind in the timing chamber, and the valves. Having compressed aired the inside of the engine, and vaccuming out all of the debris I could reach, I then used my camera snake to see if there was anything I missed. Everything looked good, so I once again changed the oil for good measure.
I was able to locate some high temp (390°) malleable PVC, which is similar but much stronger and more pliable than steel stick and I reformed the camshaft cap. It took me days to recreate the part. It is a work of art. It is also solid as a rock. The internal holes of the camshaft cap, as well the bottom side that attaches to the head are still the original part, but it is the top that need to be repaired. Everything went according to plan. The valve cover fit snug and there was no issues with the fit of the cap. I then placed the valve cover back on and proceeded to start the engine. Yet, the truck didn't start. I had compression. My fuel pump was good. My starter was working, and the alternator was working. I knew it was most likely an ignition coil so I started with the one nearest the fluid bib and that was the issue. The fluid bib is not directly over the spark plug, but the wires are. The fluid must have trickled into there as well. I did not immediately remove the spark. I instead vaccumed the fluid out, and let it dry overnight. The next day, I removed the spark and found no cause for concern. My guess is that the fluid had come into contact with the boot attachment and the engine didn't like it so the truck wouldn't start. I then started the engine with no problems, but unfortunately, the valve cover bolt directly above the camshaft cap popped loose from its position on the cover, not on the cap that it bolts into, and began shooting oil like the dude from the Beverly hillbillies. Texas tea. A real geyser! POS!
I have reached out to a local machine shop to see how much it will cost to remachine the camshaft cap and get everything back to the original, except for the valve covers. I'm hoping I can locate some aluminum ones because I'm done playing games with 2 completely different materials as if it were some mixed race marriage made in heaven. It is not. It was and is a horrible idea. So I'm awaiting to hear from them so I can decide where to go from there.
I still haven't been able to locate anything to do with the black wire. It amazes me that the f150 is the best selling truck ever since it was a trail wagon and the two issues that I come across since I bought the truck new are not only very time consuming, but expensive to repair. $4,000.00 for the head from ford. Can't buy the camshaft cap by itself. You have to purchase the entire head. I asked the Ford guy who gave me the quote if for $4,000.00 I'd be able to get some straps to attach it because the bolts they use are absolute trash. I don't believe he caught the joke I was making and said, "no, I believe the bolts are sold separately with the solenoids or the valve cover."
" Well thanks for your time! "
All things considered, I believe my next vehicle will be a Lamborghini hood ornament. I'll just piece the rest of it together as I can afford to.
Isn't that a wonderful story?
It took me longer to write than normal because I had to work around the inability to utilize the universal language of expletives that have the ability to explain things in further detail but in lesser time.
Haha! Thanks for any suggestions or recommendations! I really appreciate your assistance!
Thanks.
Thursday, September 25th, 2025 AT 12:39 AM
