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Code P1120

Tiny
JDUBB6624
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD FOCUS
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 256,154 MILES
Idles around 2700- 3000 rpm unless I unplug idle air control valve then it idles at 1200 rpm. Code for TPS P1120 so I replaced TPS twice now no help at all. EGR has been removed and it has a header and exhaust and cold air intake. Checked all plugs for loose connections or frayed wires. Checked vacuum leaks and weak collapsible spots in the hoses. Car doesn't have much power at all above 3000 RPM either. Also I haven't heard the fans run either. I've only driven it around the block a few times and temperature gets to middle if gauge and no fans. Not sure if its related to idle or power loss. I just got the car two weeks ago and just got replaced fuel. Pump to get it running and it's been idling high since. It has sat for around two years or so.
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Sunday, April 28th, 2019 AT 9:26 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,139 POSTS
If you have a scanner with the capability to look at sensor parameters, monitor the tpmode and tp volt, mode should show ct or closed throttle and volts should be close to 1.0v. I have replaced the plastic throttle body on these for excess play so be aware of that also. Sometimes the throttle position sensor will not set a trouble code because it is technically “ in spec” even though it is at the wrong place at the wrong time so to speak. For power loss above 3000 rpms, about the only issue that I’ve ever had with these cars is lack of fuel pressure. When you replaced the fuel pump how did the gas look in the tank? If it looked brown at all, the new pump can be damaged and contaminated.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 8:07 AM
Tiny
JDUBB6624
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I don't have a scanner. I've heard of people putting Mustang throttle body's on these 2.0 engines but not sure what make and model Mustang TB. I'd see like an aluminum throttle body either way. It still has P1120 code after third. TPS. The original Ford TPS I removed wasn't spring loaded like the aftermarket part store ones I bought so I thought that was going to fix the problem and may have been its own problem but not the high idle problem. On a cold start it idles at 1200 for 10-15 seconds then quickly jumps straight to 2700 and slowly rises a little more. It jumps up so quick as if a sensor is making it or the PCM is telling it to. I unplug idle air control valve then it idles at 1200 so is the PCM telling the idle control to open or is the idle control bad? I don't think its bad because it obviously opens and closes. I have cleaned it and put a new gasket on it and swapped a used one and was worse with the other one so idk. Also there is a lot of oil around all the spark plugs. I read this can cause misfired and run rough. The car did sit a while and I drained the old gas and put 93 Octane in it but haven't changed fuel filter yet so I'm hoping that and the oil are causing it to have no power on top end but who knows. I'm so frustrated at this point.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 11:11 AM
Tiny
JDUBB6624
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Here's a video that will helpfully help you understand. Also I pumped almost all the old gas out of the tank with the used pump I put in it and it didn't take long so I assumed the pump is pumping plenty. I then drained last of gas out and out 93 in it and the screen filter on pump and assembly were clean.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 11:18 AM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,139 POSTS
The best way to diagnose it will be to see what the PCM is seeing for TP volts and how the PCM is interpreting these volts for the mode, very important otherwise you will be guessing. Also make sure the wires at the TP sensor connector are not broken, one by one pull on the wires at the connector, if one of them has the stretch Armstrong action, that will need to be repaired or the connector pigtail replaced.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM
Tiny
JDUBB6624
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank you. I'll have to take it somewhere. With the idle control unplugged it idles at 1,200 until I hit gas then hangs around 2,000 then drops to 1,200 but while I drive it stays at 2,000 when I push in clutch because it doesn't have time to drop down to 1,200. When I cover cold air intake it shuts off. Would that mean no vacuum leak?
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 1:21 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,895 POSTS
Yep, I don't think it will ever run right with those modifications, the engine needs the EGR so the computer can run through its cycles, you might need an aftermarket PCM.
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Thursday, May 2nd, 2019 AT 1:55 PM

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