Brake booster replacement instructions please?

Tiny
WCDOUGLAS2
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 51 MILES
It makes a noise when pressing on the brakes like a hissing noise and I have a hard brake pedal. Help?
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Thursday, December 2nd, 2010 AT 11:54 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
DANNY L
  • EXPERT
Hello, I'm Danny.

Here is the information you requested. Be sure to just move the brake master cylinder slightly out of the way so that you don't have to open a line and then have to bleed the brake system. I've attached picture steps below on how to change the power brake booster on your car. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 9:00 PM
Tiny
MOCHAPJ
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA ACCORD
My brake pedal has been low for several months. I took it in and the mechanics put in new rear brakes. The brake pedal was still low. They bled the brakes several different times. They put in a new master cylinder. The brake pedal was still low. They put in a new proportioning valve. The brake pedal is still low. It goes almost to the floor before I feel any braking and if I press hard enough when stopped I can push it to the floor. The brake pedal feels solid enough when the car is not started but as soon as the car is started the pressure drops. The mechanics have tried everything they know. The bled the lines multiple times even when the car was jacked up. They checked the calipers, did something with a wheel cylinder, it seems like they did everything, except fix it. Anyway I am 700.00 out and have the same problem as before I went in. I don't know what to do or where to go next?
Please help
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
"The brake pedal feels solid enough when the car is not started but as soon as the car is started the pressure drops."

That statement says to me that this is a brake booster problem.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_boost_1.jpg

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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MOCHAPJ
  • MEMBER
Ok, the mechanic put in a new brake booster today. Still the SAME problem. Except now I have 1000.00 into this issue?
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
Does this have ABS?
Antilock brakes?
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MOCHAPJ
  • MEMBER
No, I don't think it has ABS. The mechanic told me that and I just checked in the manual.

J
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NATHANIEL BRANDL
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
I recently had to replace my car battery. I drove it for the first time since then and now it is hard to press the brake pedal, but the lightest pressure engages the brakes. After a 15 minute drive, I could smell a possible burning smell under the steering wheel. I opened the hood and nothing smelled. Could the brakes be burning? How could I fix this? I've turned into a DIY guy in the attempt to learn more and about cars and save money.
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
Get a measurement on the pedal height and check adjustment if all else is good...rear brakes were fully adjusted out correct?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_h1_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_h2_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_h3_1.jpg

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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Good idea. When you replaced the battery it sounds like the brake booster hose got knocked off or broken. Can you check to let me know here is an image below? Never mind the gauge but this is the hose I am talking about. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find.
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLAINE PRICE
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 250,000 MILES
I had a driver side brake line start leaking and changed it. The brake pedal is hard. When bleeding it only goes to the floor on the driver front and rear passenger on the front passenger and the back driver I get little to no movement when the bleeder is opened, but do get fluid. It does have ABS.
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
First of all, never ever push the brake pedal to the floor. Doing so runs the rubber lip seals over the crud and corrosion that builds up in those areas where the pistons don't normally travel. You may have a damaged master cylinder now, and the internal leakage often does not show up for two or three days.

Most front-wheel-drive cars use a split-diagonal hydraulic system with the right front and the left rear on the same circuit. On the GM cars, when there is a leak or when the brakes are bled and the pedal is pushed over half-way, there is a valve that trips in the master cylinder to block those two ports. The only way I have ever found to reset the valve is to loosen the cap on the reservoir, open the bleeder screw on one of those wheels, then give it a very short, quick burst of compressed air. Let it gravity-bleed after that. Once the air is bled out, close the bleeder, "irritate" the brake pedal a little by hand, then open the bleeder once more. You don't have to bleed all the wheels when replacing a leaking line.
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Just to add a little, if you are trying to bleed the system with ABS, you have to have the proper scan-tool to open the ABS solenoids to bleed the system. I have learned this from another Tech on our forum here. He will always tell you to have a Tech open the solenoids with an ABS scan-tool. Just a thought.
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LIZCOOKSRA@GMAIL.COM
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 228,000 MILES
While in Park with engine on, or while car is moving slowly with or without brake pedal depressed, there is a distinct gurgling/popping sound coming from the brake booster or so close to it that it appears to be the brake booster. Any suggestions as to what the problem is and whether this is an immediate safety issue?
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome to 2CarPros.

The brake booster on this vehicle operates on engine vacuum. To eliminate that as a possible issue, I need you to disconnect and plug the vacuum supply to it and then start the engine to see if the noise is gone. Note: With the vacuum hose disconnected, you will lose power assist, so don't drive it until it's back together.

I attached a picture below and highlighted the hose I am referring to. If you don't plug it on the engine size, it will cause a large vacuum leak and the engine will most likely not stay running.

Do this and let me know if it makes a difference.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)

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