Front and rear strut replacement instructions please?

Tiny
SZALKUSKT
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 HONDA CRV
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • 115,000 MILES
I am going to replace both the front and rear struts on the vehicle listed above and I am interested in the procedures and more importantly the torque values for the hardware involved.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 8:55 PM

20 Replies

Tiny
DAVEH429
  • EXPERT
Hello.

I have attached diagrams with the instructions and torque specs included. Please reply with any other assistance you may need.

Hope this helps with your repair. Please keep us updated on your repair outcome and do not hesitate to contact us again for further information or assistance.

Thanks for using 2CarPros.

Dave. H
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Monday, March 1st, 2021 AT 4:21 AM
Tiny
SZALKUSKT
  • MEMBER
Thanks Dave, I got all four struts changed and I really appreciate the help with the torque specs!
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Saturday, March 6th, 2021 AT 9:34 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Glad to hear you got everything taken care of. Please feel free to come back anytime in the future.

Joe
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Tuesday, March 9th, 2021 AT 5:44 PM
Tiny
CKSTAUFFER
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 HONDA CRV
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 50,000 MILES
My Honda was hit recently causing damage to the left front tire and strut. The repair shop strongly recommended that we replace both front tires and both struts siting that it is generally accepted that these items are replaced in pairs. The insurance company of the guy who hit us only paid for one strut and one tire, saying that only one of each was damaged. I am trying to get them to pay for both, as was recommended to me.

Is it necessary or a safety issue to replace them in pairs? I do have recourse by an appeal, but I'd have to have facts to back this up.

Thanks!
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MEMBER
I can see this issue from both sides. Yes, the struts should be replaced in pairs. Only changing one could turn into a handling issue when driving. But, a lot of insurance companies, nowadays, will only repair or replace what's damaged. I used to work with customers who had extended warranty on their vehicle drivelines. If they blew the engine up due to overheat or lack of oil, they wouldn't pay for a new engine or a complete rebuild on the old one. All they wanted to pay for was the parts that were actually damaged. That included bearings, seals, valves, nothing, yet, they still wanted me to warranty the engine for 1 year or 10K miles. Anyway, If you whine and cry loud enough, you, ll get your struts. They're just waiting for you to give up and quit. The one thing they may bring up is the car only has 50K on. Thats not a lot of miles on a modern strut.
One thing you may want to use as leverage is a note from your mechanic stateing that he can't or won't change only 1 strut due to a safety issue. If something were to happen, the liability would come back on him, which it would. Hope this helps.
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CKSTAUFFER
  • MEMBER
Hi James,

Thank you for your prompt reply. I will take your advice and ask the mechanic to write his reasoning as to why the insurance company should pay for the other strut and tire.

I was wondering if you wouldn't mind replying with just the reasoning, so I can include your response with my appeal letter?
You stated struts should be replaced in pairs, but maybe could you elaborate as to why? Also, the mechanic told me the front tires should be replaced together. Again, why is this safer?
I'd really appreciate your help. I'm frustrated w/the insurance company as there is no question that their insured is at fault (hit and run to my parked car) and was caught, arrested and admitted guilt. They aren't disputing fault, just don't want me to have a car that's in the condition it was before this guy hit it.

FYI, they promptly paid for what they deemed necessary. I paid the difference.

Thank you!
Cheryl

I will respond in a new post. Please keep in mind, even though we are on your side, we have to remain impartial. I will word my responce as a shop owner on your behalf.
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MEMBER
On your question of strut replacement. It is common procedure through out the industry to replace strut assenblies and front drive tires as a pair. Installing one new strut and one new driving tire with a used assembly on the opposite side can cause significant handling problems as well as a possible safety issue. I wouldn't let the vehicle leave the shop without a signed statement from the vehicle's registered owner stating the possible hazzards and our exclusion from any liability due to possible repercutions from the customer request service/work performed. I wouldn't be trying to make a few extra bucks, I would just be covering my tail. Hope this helps. Anything else, you know where to find us.
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CKSTAUFFER
  • MEMBER
Thank you. Really appreciate it!

Cheryl
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MEMBER
Glad to help. That's why we're here.
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
APRILANN4964
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 HONDA CRV
I just had all 4 struts replaced and I still hear a clunking sound when I drive over bumps in the road.(Like a manhole cover).
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

There are a number of other components that could be making this noise. Front suspension lower control arm bushes, radius rod bushes to name a few, your mechanic must inspect each bush to determine there serviceability. This is not just a visual inspection, he / she should use a lever to examine any free movement between bush. Mount & fitting.

I hope this helps.

Mark (mhpautos) :D
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CVJOINT2
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 HONDA CRV
After rebuilding the whole front suspension on my crv the car all of sudden rides extremely stiff. I used the same struts because they were ok but after replacing everything with oem parts this was a big unwanted surprise and am wondering how the heck could I have damaged the struts for them to stiffen up. I lifted the car up today by a lower control arm and also by the frame rails to check it out some more and found out that when I let the weight of the lower control arm the suspension would drop extremely slowly so much so that when I release the hydraulic pressure of the jack the suspension would lower at a pace of a moving snail.
Please would you any idea what happened here and is there way to get my strut working correctly again

Many thanks
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi cvjoint2,

I take it to mean that you have replaced all the control arm bushes.

Try loosening the lower control arm brackets with wheel on the floor, ie u need to crawl under to do it. Retighten the brackets. This is to allow the bushes to be seated at the normal riding position.

Does the suspension response easily if you try to lift the front and is stiff when bumping it downwards?

Check if both sides are similar.
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CVJOINT2
  • MEMBER
After I rebuilt the suspension I preloaded it before tightening everything up. Anyhow the car rode as if though it had no suspension at all. I have a very hard time believing the bushings would be capable of withholding close to a 1000 pounds of pressure. SO What I did is= (I was afraid to ride the car like this) I drilled the struts, which got rid of the problem, now even though I can drive the car Ill have to replace the struts no mater what. But at least now can go over bumps without the fear of snapping a control arm. It looks as if though the struts went bad just because they extended its full range of motion. I never removed the spring from the assembly. As far the supsension compressing im not sure how well it compressed but you have to take the weight of the car maybe during the lifting of the car from its control arm it wasnt noticeable however, I dared not to go over a bump at high speed. It was a jarring ride. In other words I doubt it compressed easily. Releasing the jack from under control arm (while car supported by frame) hit me with a big surprise too.
The suspension would drop slower to the bottom then a hydraulic jack.
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HONDAWOES
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA CRV
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
I need to replace the worn out strut bushings in both front lower control arms on my 1997 Honda CR-V. It appears that I have to replace the lower control arms with new ones that have the bushings already installed. Are they crazy? There must be replacement bushings available, but where do I find them? Thanks in advance.
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • EXPERT
There are both OEM and aftermarket LCA bushings available. I've replaced literally dozens of these.
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HONDAWOES
  • MEMBER
I appologize for not being clear about the strut mount bushings that I
need. I need the bushings that sit in the lower front cuntrol arms,
through which the lower end of the strut fork is bolted to the control
arm.

Honda does not show a part number for these bushings, their "Parts
Detail-Diagram For FRONT LOWER ARM" shows the bushings in the control
arm but does not show a part number for these busings. The control arm
part numbers are 51360-S10-A00 ARM ASSY, L. FR. (LOWER) and
51350-S10-A00 ARM ASSY, R. FR. (LOWER).

Can I remove the same bushings from other like control arms and use them
to replace my worn out bushings without too much hassle? Or can I tear
the worn bushings out of my control arms and replace them with any
suitable bushings of the same dimensions, if so do you have any tips on
finding something that will suffice? Or do I have to replace both
control arms and then have the front end re-alined.
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-1
Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hinda parts catalogue does not have the part no listed but over here we can get replacement parts easily from parts outlet.

You can use substitute bushes provided you can get the parts but if the design is different, it might not work out accordingly.

Of course replacing the control arms would be the best solution but the price is not that enticing.
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FREDFENSOM
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA CRV
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
Knocking sound when driving over bumps and uneven road surfaces. Had wish bone replaced 8 months ago. Think the problem is the rubber damper/washer on rod off wish bone joint and attached to the wheel. Rubber circular washer type washer that stops movement when turning steering wheel. The supplier is having problems with part identification. The top damper/washer is worn and I want to replace top & bottom rubber bush? Need help with part name.
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi fredfensom,

Here is a diagram of the front suspension.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_FrtSuspension97CRVFig01_1.jpg

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+10
Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)

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