2006 Pontiac Torrent Help!

Tiny
AMBER6696
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 PONTIAC TORRENT
  • 3.1L
  • V8
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
My car is running rough when idling and when you turn right it makes a grinding noise. Just stared doing it. I need to get advise on what it might be.
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Saturday, July 11th, 2015 AT 5:28 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Running rough is due to a misfire. How long since the spark plugs were replaced?

For noises you have to have a live person listen to it to determine which area of the car it's coming from, what affects it, what it sounds like, and things like that. Cars can make hundreds of different kinds of noises, so it's impossible to diagnose until we have those details.
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Saturday, July 11th, 2015 AT 6:09 AM
Tiny
AMBER6696
  • MEMBER
I had the spark plugs replaced a about a year ago. Also I have had the head gaskets replaced around 3 to 4 months ago. I have repaired the water pump and had the lines flushed two times in the last year. My husband is concerned that it is the Transmission but I think it might be the cv joints. When you start the car it is ok but as soon as you start driving it and stop it starts idling rough and the rpms jump up. Can you help me figure out whats wrong with my car?
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Saturday, July 11th, 2015 AT 6:18 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
The place to start is by having the diagnostic fault codes read and recorded. The people at most auto parts stores will do that for you for free.

At the mileage you listed, some of the more common suspects might be a vacuum hose that's cracked or leaking, or some other vacuum leak, a worn or collapsed engine mount that is allowing normal engine vibration to be transmitted into the passenger area, and perhaps a weak ignition coil. A worn mount can transmit vibration by allowing the two metal parts of the assembly to transmit engine vibration, and hat can sound like a grinding noise. That will usually change when turning the steering wheel one way versus the other way. Doing that puts forces on the engine that can push it a little to either side.

If there are no related fault codes, your mechanic will connect a scanner to view live data to see what the various sensors are reporting.
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Saturday, July 11th, 2015 AT 6:31 AM
Tiny
AMBER6696
  • MEMBER
The check engine light is not coming on, it came on a few moths ago ad the code said it was the number 1 cylinder that was misfiring but it only happened when you reached speeds over 75 to 85 mph but that's not what is going on now. Once you get out of first gear it runs fine but if you stop at a red light or at a stop sign it starts running rough and feels like it is about to quit. I read a forum last night that someone else had similar experience and they replaced the pcv valve and a hose and it fixed the problem. I don't have a lot of money and need to get this repaired quickly what can you tell me what I need to do?
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Saturday, July 11th, 2015 AT 6:45 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I told you already. Start by having the fault codes read and recorded. There are well over 2,000 potential codes, and only about half of them result in the Check Engine light turning on. That light never turns on for the other half of the codes.

As for the PCV valve, that is an inexpensive thing to try, but otherwise we never throw random parts at a problem in hopes one fixes it. That is the most expensive and least effective way to diagnose a problem. Your mechanic will perform tests to determine what appears to be the cause of the problem, THEN replace a part, then verify the problem is solved. There are dozens of things that can cause the symptoms you described, so just because someone posted the part that was their solution, doesn't mean it's going to solve your problem. If it was that easy, we would just compile a list of symptoms and the parts that solve them.

The next thing is to have your mechanic use a scanner to see what the Engine Computer is seeing and responding to.
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Saturday, July 11th, 2015 AT 7:55 AM

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