2005 Ford Escape Charging System Problem

MARTWEIN

MEMBER
2005 FORD ESCAPE
3.0L
6 CYL
AWD
AUTOMATIC
134,000 MILES

A few weeks ago my Escape would not start. It had power, lights, radio etc. I tapped the starter and it started. It worked fine after that for a few days. Then again it would not start. This time it had absolutely no power at all. So I looked at the battery cables and the battery itself. I replaced the battery and it started at everything was fine. That lasted for about a week. Then it did the same thing were there was no power. I moved the cables around and then it would have power and then start. I took it to the Ford dealer and they diagnosed it with having a bad cable assembly. They wanted over 400 dollars to change this thing. So needles to say I bought the cable assembly from then and installed it. Now. I charged the battery before I replaced the cable. After installing the new assembly and batter, the battery/charging light has come on. I took my volt meter and checked the battery before starting it. It tested at 12.6 volts. I then stated the vehicle and had a my wife rev the engine to 2000 rpms. I tested it again and it had dropped to 11.10. I left it running and eventually it died. I checked the volts again and the battery was at 8.48. Does this mean my alternator is shot? Also, I would like to know if there is a free wiring diagram out there for this? I looked at the one on Autozone. Com but it is not very good. Thanks.

3 Replies

CARADIODOC

MECHANIC
33,727 POSTS

For decades Chrysler had the easiest charging system to diagnose, and Ford finally came up with a similar design in the '90s. Unfortunately, the engineers didn't like the ease of service so on your generator the voltage regulator is buried and the test points no longer exist. The only thing you can do measure the voltages at the connector. There should be three wires in one connector and an output wire bolted to the outside. Back-probe those three wires through the rubber seals to take the readings. Holler back with those measurements on all four wires with the engine running and with it off and the ignition switch is on.

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Tuesday, August 13th, 2019 AT 6:57 PM

CJ MEDEVAC

MECHANIC
11,004 POSTS

Wifey has a 2003

Had it since '05.....i fried the tranny 2 years ago when i "back and forthed" it in the snow a million times..........but i got the sucker out!..........1 bad coil.....1 o2 sensor.......other than that, it has stood up to the wrath of my wife!

............so glad i drive a '46 willys and a '77 cj 5......just can't beat that 4wd!

Now then---you seem to be really able to get stuff working!

The connections are my pet peeve as far as the big cables go----normally that's the problem

..............but you have covered all of that, it looks like.....

Disconnect the battery (and charge it up) while we test/ fix

So.........we'll dig a little deeper

As far as the wall you are up against......worst case--bad alternator

If you snatch it off and have it testedit may be fine!.........but don't do that yet!!!!!!!!

If there is a break in the wire between the alternator and battery.......it won't charge!

...........if there's a break between the fields and the battery (in a round about way) ----mr. Alternator will never "power up"

This may not be a "physical break"it may be the fusible links (a fuse/wire)

You have a voltmeter---run a continuity test thru them

I'll try to make it ezleft side of the "charging diagram" i snagged from "mitchell i"

If that ain't ityou have the entire "charging diagram" to go by!.............keep testing!

Lemme know how it goes.....or if you need another diagram of another systemthe end of this post might interest you too

Http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

Return with a grin!

The medic

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