Car stalls while I was driving

Tiny
NOTHAPPYWITHMYCAR
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET MALIBU
  • 91,000 MILES
While driving yesterday my car died in the middle of the highway. The battery light and the oil light quickly flashed before it died (they were not lit previously and I just had my oil changed.) I don't think it was my battery because the lights, radio and windsheild wiper were still working when the car died. I had it towed and I'm just looking for a list of possibilities. What is wrong with it? 2005 Chevy Classic.
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Wednesday, January 4th, 2012 AT 5:21 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
TIRED_OF_FIXING_MY_CAR!
  • MEMBER
I have a simular problem with my 2001 Malibu. It seems to enjoy shutting off while I am driving down the interstate (65 -70 MPH) or while driving down the mainstreet in town ( 20 mph ) and time in between. I first had a cam shaft A sensor error and replaced the cam shaft sensor. Then I had a leaking gasket ( the one around the timing chain ), fixed that too.. Now it seems that not only is the mystery problem with it shutting off while driving, but it has also given the impression that the fuel pump is going out. Stopped to pick up my son from a game, and it wouldnt start for two days. No buzzz from the trunk gave off the impression that the fuel pump died. I let it sit until I wasnt sooo angry at it. I started it a week later drove it around the block, to work, and around town with out any problems. Other than it still shutting off at its discretion, it ran fine. Tomorrow I am going to get the fuel pressure tester from my local O'fix it shop, just to see what it tells me. Anyone have any ideas??

I found this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls
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Thursday, April 12th, 2012 AT 2:40 AM
Tiny
TIRED_OF_FIXING_MY_CAR!
  • MEMBER
I went to the O'fix it parts shop and tested the fuel pressure. It registered 0 on the pressure gage. It had some pressure, after running a while enough to make it drip in the hose, but not enough to move the pressure gage. The "O'fix it" parts guy said it might be the regulator or a clogged filter. Any other suggestions?
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Friday, April 13th, 2012 AT 12:15 AM
Tiny
TAMMYLOVEJOYWARD
  • MEMBER
I had this problem with a chevy cavalier. Going along just fine many and then would die. My dad replaced the fuel pump. Still dead. Thought he got a bad part. Replaced again. Still dead. Turns out that it was a wire that runs from the battery along inside under the drivers door to under the back seat floor up to a port under the center of the back seat to power the fuel pump had gotten worn and the car would work when it was making the connection, but add a couple of squirming kids in the back seat and it would come loose and the car would die. A $4.00 piece of wire fixed it.
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Monday, January 21st, 2013 AT 1:43 PM
Tiny
BGAIL123
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET MALIBU
  • 3.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 133,000 MILES
Had fuel pump change 3 months ago car runs well today car starts and when I get to a stop it kills re start runs and kills then when brake is applied it jumps
Forward. When it does that the idling goes down and exceleration is lost then cuts off again has a slight burn smell
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOE F
  • EXPERT
Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked for engine vacuum leaks? Have you checked the idle air control valve (IAC)?
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BGAIL123
  • MEMBER
Yes the check engine light comes on I took it to advance auto parts code came up with P0300 and P0128
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOE F
  • EXPERT
The 300 is a random misfire. It could be caused by many things. The 128 indicates the engine isn't warming up to proper operating temp. Has the thermostat ever been replaced?
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RENAEG77
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET MALIBU
Electrical problem
2005 Chevy Malibu 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 2005 Malibu and the key part wouldnt turn. I had to buy a new key and key turner(sorry i'm not sure what the name is) that cost 177.00! When I had a friend replace it, the battery was dead was I was able to recharge the battery but the car still wont start. I can turn the key now but it will not stay on. It will start but as soon as you let go of the key the car cuts off again. Do you have any idea what this might be. Thanks Renae
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RHALL77
  • MEMBER
Try this. Turn the key off for 30 seconds. Crank the engine real quick and leave the key on. Watch for the security light to blink. When it is blinking, leave the key on until it stops blinking. This may take 10-30 minutes so make sure you have a battery charger on it. If it is not blinking retry the above. When it does stop blinking, turn the key off for 30 econds and try to restart it. Let me know what happends
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RENAEG77
  • MEMBER
I tried and failed. Thanks anyway. Do u think it could be my wires
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RHALL77
  • MEMBER
You will need to have the security system scanned and see what code is in it. Other wise the dealer will have to reprogram it
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPROS-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET MALIBU
  • 190,000 MILES
Driving donn the road car will stall out no matter how fast then you let set and it will take off agin the longer you let it set the better it does
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHER1
  • MEMBER
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)

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