2.0 GL BATTERY LIGHT COMES ON CAR DIES? PLEASE HELP!!
2004 Volkswagen Jetta
May, 10, 2012 AT 4:30 PM
I have had this issue before so I took it in and got a new battery issue was resolved (07/11) and now it has came back. I will be driving the RPM drops and then the car dies I then have to put it in N and restart the car to drive a minute and have it to happen again. I got the alternator replaced bc they say that was the issue, 2 days later same thing so I take it to VW they says its the alternator so I replace it AGAIN. It is happening now again, it is not the alternator I have replaced that twice in 1 week. And it is not that battery bc I have had it tested and it runs at perfect voltage. Please help, I am running out of options!
Could be the alternator's field generation circuit controlled by the computer-have it checked
May, 10, 2012 AT 5:09 PM
I have had the computer checked and everything read okay. Should I go and have that specifically checked?
May, 10, 2012 AT 5:16 PM
They (vw) also said they thought it was the alternator getting to hot and sending signals to the battery that's why it was doing it but it's not the alternator. It also only happens in the day time. I do live somewhere hot if that has anything to do with it. (Las vegas, nv)
May, 10, 2012 AT 5:26 PM
Do so-as I've said about the computer controlled of the alternator
May, 13, 2012 AT 3:26 PM
Check the fusebox on top of the battery. The alternator cable runs there to a strip fuse, which runs to the battery. When alternators fail, they overheat the cable/fuse which melts the contacts in this fusebox. This is a very, very, very common problem on mk4 jetta/golfs. If you pop the fuse cover off, you will immediately see if it's burnt or not. You'll see melted plastic, white "chalk" marks everywhere, etc.
You should replace the fusebox, all the fuses, and the alternator cable.
May, 14, 2012 AT 5:13 AM
I checked the fuse box and there isn't any burnt fuses, melted plastic, etc. Do you still recommend replacing these things? It also only happens to me in the day time (hot outside)
May, 14, 2012 AT 7:44 AM
Did you check PCM relay < or ignition switch both are major componants but are a lot more easier access and cheaper to replace. Relay 45. Ignition switch 79. But you can do these yourself without the bill from dealer
May, 22, 2012 AT 8:04 PM
I took it in to a mechanic yet again, and. This time they found a faulty crank shaft sensor. I got it replaced and. Its been running great, until today it was 103 degrees out and the car started idling really hard and battery light came on and shut off yet again. It seems to ONLY happen in the heat! : (
May, 22, 2012 AT 10:36 PM
Idling really hard. Means it's running out of fuel, dies and then
the battery light comes on (because the engine isn't running any more).
Take it back to the last guy who worked on it and tell him to take
June, 23, 2012 AT 8:33 AM
Have you had any overheating problems? Because the computer will shut the system down if your too hot. Never mind gauge need to get temperature gun infra red. Check temp in multiple locations if variance is more the 20 degrees you have an air pocket which dosent allow for flow. Remember sensors work off sumersible temp not ambient worth checking fixed many o cars with burping of system.