2.0 Jetta GL battery light comes on car dies? PLEASE HELP!

Tiny
AGRIMES
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA
  • 70,000 MILES
I have had this issue before so I took it in and got a new battery issue was resolved (07/11) and now it has came back. I will be driving the RPM drops and then the car dies I then have to put it in N and restart the car to drive a minute and have it to happen again. I got the alternator replaced bc they say that was the issue, 2 days later same thing so I take it to VW they says its the alternator so I replace it AGAIN. It is happening now again, it is not the alternator I have replaced that twice in 1 week. And it is not that battery bc I have had it tested and it runs at perfect voltage. Please help, I am running out of options!
Thursday, May 10th, 2012 AT 4:30 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Could be the alternator's field generation circuit controlled by the computer-have it checked
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Thursday, May 10th, 2012 AT 4:48 PM
Tiny
AGRIMES
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I have had the computer checked and everything read okay. Should I go and have that specifically checked?
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Thursday, May 10th, 2012 AT 5:09 PM
Tiny
AGRIMES
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
They (vw) also said they thought it was the alternator getting to hot and sending signals to the battery that's why it was doing it but it's not the alternator. It also only happens in the day time. I do live somewhere hot if that has anything to do with it. (Las vegas, nv)
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Thursday, May 10th, 2012 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Do so-as I've said about the computer controlled of the alternator
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Thursday, May 10th, 2012 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
Check the fusebox on top of the battery. The alternator cable runs there to a strip fuse, which runs to the battery. When alternators fail, they overheat the cable/fuse which melts the contacts in this fusebox. This is a very, very, very common problem on mk4 jetta/golfs. If you pop the fuse cover off, you will immediately see if it's burnt or not. You'll see melted plastic, white "chalk" marks everywhere, etc.

You should replace the fusebox, all the fuses, and the alternator cable.
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Sunday, May 13th, 2012 AT 3:26 PM
Tiny
AGRIMES
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I checked the fuse box and there isn't any burnt fuses, melted plastic, etc. Do you still recommend replacing these things? It also only happens to me in the day time (hot outside)
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Monday, May 14th, 2012 AT 5:13 AM
Tiny
JAMMINJAMES
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Did you check PCM relay < or ignition switch both are major componants but are a lot more easier access and cheaper to replace. Relay 45. Ignition switch 79. But you can do these yourself without the bill from dealer
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Monday, May 14th, 2012 AT 7:44 AM
Tiny
AGRIMES
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I took it in to a mechanic yet again, and. This time they found a faulty crank shaft sensor. I got it replaced and. Its been running great, until today it was 103 degrees out and the car started idling really hard and battery light came on and shut off yet again. It seems to ONLY happen in the heat! :(
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Tuesday, May 22nd, 2012 AT 8:04 PM
Tiny
EXOVCDS
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,883 POSTS
Idling really hard. Means it's running out of fuel, dies and then
the battery light comes on (because the engine isn't running any more).

Take it back to the last guy who worked on it and tell him to take
another look.
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Tuesday, May 22nd, 2012 AT 10:36 PM
Tiny
JAMMINJAMES
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Have you had any overheating problems? Because the computer will shut the system down if your too hot. Never mind gauge need to get temperature gun infra red. Check temp in multiple locations if variance is more the 20 degrees you have an air pocket which dosent allow for flow. Remember sensors work off sumersible temp not ambient worth checking fixed many o cars with burping of system.
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Saturday, June 23rd, 2012 AT 8:33 AM
Tiny
VWSCOTT
  • MEMBER
  • 66 POSTS
I had a new conv. Beetle come in with 2500 miles on it. Said it was running rough. They ran it so hot the baffle inside the valve cover melted and ran down the oil returns to the oil pan.
If you get it checked and there are no stored codes i'd suspect the power supply relay. It won't record a code because it powers the ecm.
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Sunday, July 8th, 2012 AT 6:59 PM

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