Center Console (Radio/AC-Fan controls) are dead, as well as automatic windows and speedometer

Tiny
RALPH III
  • 2004 TOYOTA 4RUNNER
  • 165 MILES

My AC stopped working this past week, so my Dad and I tried to troubleshoot yesterday. The compressor wasn't kicking in so I first checked the fuses(good). We then decided to check the refrigerant level but upon starting my truck, the center console(Radio/AC Fan Controls) were all dead? My automatic windows are also dead as well as my speedometer. The instruments on each side of the speedometer(gas/mileage) are working though, just FYI.

In troubleshooting since:

* I replaced the battery as it was found to be defective.

* I physically inspected each fuse under the hood and dash twice. I then checked continuity with a meter. All fuses are good.

* I purchased a new Relay "magnetic clutch relay" (90987-02022) and swapped it out with every like-kind. Some posts suggested this could be an issue due to the original noted part # being a known defect. This made no difference either.

The Radio/AC-Fan Controls/Auto Windows/Speedometer all remain dead.

Any suggestions?

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 1:35 AM

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Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Recheck the fuses, you must have missed out something, especially ECU-B (10 A) in underhood fuse box.

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 2:24 AM
Tiny
RALPH III
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Ok, a couple of things.

1) I've removed and viewed each fuse twice but have spotted no bad fuses.

2) I tested continuity on each fuse while still installed via exposed metal on fuse tops (see pic) with my meter set to audible. This however apparently wasn't accurate as continuity shows between every leg of each fuse?

3) Given that, I removed the known good door dinger fuse (DOME 10amp). I then inserted every 10 amp fuse and above into that socket, including under dash. Each fuse proved good as the door dinger sounded off upon insertion with all.

I can check fuses further but that doesn't seem to be the issue.

1) Do you know which fuse(s)specifically controls all those insturments Radio/AC-Fan Controls/Truck Stats and Windows/Speedometer? It seems very unlikely several would have blown at one time but I guess could happen? There are two fuses designated (Radio 1 & Radio 2) but still the radio doesn't work even those were tested good? What purpose do those fuses serve?

2) What other fuses do you suggest I check?

3) If not the fuses, what other suggestions?

Thanks,
Ralph

I will try to upload some pictures
2

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 3:51 AM
Tiny
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I have listed the fuse that is for those components listed. Try swapping the ECU-B fuse with the dome and see if there are any changes.

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 4:09 AM
Tiny
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I indeed swapped that fuse out with several others, when testing per your last request. I've swapped out various other fuses with it as well. I've also checked every 10amp, 15amp, 20amp, 30amp fuse in the door dinger(DOME) slot. Every fuse has shown to be good. If any had been bad they would not have caused the door to ding when inserting. I've physically looked at every fuse twice and none show to be blown. I've never had a problem quickly spotting such having worked at an auto auction for 14 years. Not as a mechanic but I'm very familiar with such.

I understand the requests and can keep checking fuses. However, at some point I'm going to need a different suggestion because the fuses are proving not to be the issue.

Ralph

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 5:53 AM
Tiny
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Since you have so many probles which could be related, we shall start with diagnosis for the power windows which should be the easiest of the lot.

For a start, you would need a test light or DVOM.
Remove the master switch from its seat and check the Blue/Orange (Red) wire (terminal #7) of the switch for battery voltage (hot at all times).

If voltage available, turn ignition switch on and test terminal # 11 ( Black/Red (or Black)) wire for battery voltage.

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 10:38 AM
Tiny
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Are you talking about checking the windows/door lock module from the driver door itself? I'm not good about reading schematics so any other photos or description would help as well.

Thanks,
Ralph

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 1:26 PM
Tiny
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Remove the part shown to get at the wires under it.

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 1:44 PM
Tiny
RALPH III
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Ok, I removed the door panel and have provided some pics of the wiring disconnect. I turned the key on and checked the power to the largest Red wire which did show 12v. So that wire has power according to my DVOM. Are there any other wires I should check as there are several other red and red/multi colored one's?

The door locks are functional, btw.

Thanks,
Ralph

P.S. It will probably be several hours before I can troubleshoot further. I appreciate the help.

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 2:33 PM
Tiny
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Just FYI.

The largest Red wire is shown nearer the bottom in the first photo. I think it is on the bottom row, second from left, in the picture showing the front of the harness disconnect.

Ralph

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 2:37 PM
Tiny
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With ignition switch turned on, there must be another wire with battery voltage. Terminal in your pic should be the Black wire ( between Green abd Blue)

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 4:44 PM
Tiny
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As per your request and with pics:

1) I checked the #7 terminal and it does have power all the time. This is the large "Red" wire I was referring to in my last post. It isn't blue/orange as you referenced?

2) I then turned the ignition switch on and checked the #11 terninal. This is a small solid Black wire. No power showed but it does show to be grounded(continuity with chasis).

NOTE: This is a solid black wire and not black/red as you referenced? There is a Red/black wire in the #13 terminal however which I also tested. It shows 1 amp with the ignition switch turned on.

Ralph

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
RALPH III
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Yes, terminal #11 is a black wire between a blue and green wire as you are referencing. It shows no power however. It only reads ground. I re-oriented the pics in my last post to show this better.

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
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At the door the wire should be solid Black. The conneector at door pillar would be Red/Black. You do not have battery voltage to this wire which has its power source from the ECU-IG fuse in underdash fuse box. Ensure this fuse is good.

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 5:32 PM
Tiny
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Just so we are on the same page as I don't know what you mean by "door pillar".

1) I'm testing the white "disconnect" wiring harness at the drivers door. This "disconnect" is hidden behind the door panel and attaches to the underside of the window switch(es) module, as you control the windows. It supplies power to the window switches, etc.

2) The only power reading I get on the "disconnect" is the #7 terminal which is a large Red wire @ 12volts. I haven't tested some of the smaller wires/slots as my probe is almost to big to get into those. I did test the #11 terminal though, see "3".

3) I do not get any power readings on the #11 terminal, which is a smaller solid Black wire and positioned between a Blue and Green wire.

NOTE: there is a larger Black wire(#18 I think) but nothing there either. I provided some good closeups of these wires for you.

4)The fuse is good under the dash, designated ECU-IG. There however is no power reading off of it? Several of the fuses show 12volt power on each leg (while still seated) whereas several show nothing?

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 6:41 PM
Tiny
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Door pillar means the wireharness from the door that goes into the cabin. At kick panel to be more precise there would be a connector for this harness and that is where the color would change. Testing at switch connector is finished for now.

Have you checked the fuse I mentioned? You need to test both sides of fuse for battery voltage with igntion switch turned on.

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 6:46 PM
Tiny
RALPH III
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Yes, I tested both sides of the fuse(s)for battery voltage with ignition turned on.

The ECU-IG shows no power at all. There are several other fuses under the dash that show no power either(either leg).

I've also tested all the fuses under the hood. Each one showed 12 volts(both legs) with exception of one row in the middle(Heater #2, Airsus, Seat Heater, Defog, Mir Heater). I could never read power to those.

Ralph

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 6:58 PM
Tiny
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ECU-IG power source is from ignition switch. At ignition switch test the White/Blue wire for battery voltage with ignition off.

If voltage is available, turn ignition switch on and test Blue/Yellow wire for battery voltage.

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 8:04 PM
Tiny
RALPH III
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I removed the bottom of the dash to get at the ignition switch; however, I do not see a white/blue wire nor a blue/yellow wire?

There is a large white wiring harness "disconnect" at the back of the ignition switch. There is also a small black "disconnect" which attaches on the bottom of the ignition switch. I've provided photos of each.

There is another large "disconnect" at the back/top but I'm not sure if it serves the switch and as there are only two blue wires running to it?

1) Which wires do you want me to test in photos?
2) Meanwhile, I have both driver side windows stuck in the down position. Is there any way I can short it to get those to raise up?

Ralph

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 9:42 PM
Tiny
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The first pic is the one but color seems to be different and there should only be 7 wires used according to my schematics.

With ignition OFF, let me know how many wires have battery voltage, there should be 2.

To close the windows, get a fused 10 A wire, attach to the Black wire at window master switch and close the windows.

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 10:15 PM
Tiny
RALPH III
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There are 8 wires with only the White wire showing any battery voltage, with ingnition turned "off". I removed it from the ignition harness in order to test this.

I provided some closeup pics as well as one showing ignition/wiring disconnect/wiring "female" harness.

Ralph

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Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 10:43 PM

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