CENTER CONSOLE (RADIO/AC-FAN CONTROLS) ARE DEAD, AS WELL AS AUTOMATIC WINDOWS AND SPEEDOMETER
2004 Toyota 4Runner
October, 8, 2012 AT 1:35 AM
My AC stopped working this past week, so my Dad and I tried to troubleshoot yesterday. The compressor wasn't kicking in so I first checked the fuses(good). We then decided to check the refrigerant level but upon starting my truck, the center console(Radio/AC Fan Controls) were all dead? My automatic windows are also dead as well as my speedometer. The instruments on each side of the speedometer(gas/mileage) are working though, just FYI.
In troubleshooting since:
* I replaced the battery as it was found to be defective.
* I physically inspected each fuse under the hood and dash twice. I then checked continuity with a meter. All fuses are good.
* I purchased a new Relay "magnetic clutch relay" (90987-02022) and swapped it out with every like-kind. Some posts suggested this could be an issue due to the original noted part # being a known defect. This made no difference either.
The Radio/AC-Fan Controls/Auto Windows/Speedometer all remain dead.
Recheck the fuses, you must have missed out something, especially ECU-B (10 A) in underhood fuse box.
October, 8, 2012 AT 3:51 AM
Ok, a couple of things.
1) I've removed and viewed each fuse twice but have spotted no bad fuses.
2) I tested continuity on each fuse while still installed via exposed metal on fuse tops (see pic) with my meter set to audible. This however apparently wasn't accurate as continuity shows between every leg of each fuse?
3) Given that, I removed the known good door dinger fuse (DOME 10amp). I then inserted every 10 amp fuse and above into that socket, including under dash. Each fuse proved good as the door dinger sounded off upon insertion with all.
I can check fuses further but that doesn't seem to be the issue.
1) Do you know which fuse(s)specifically controls all those insturments Radio/AC-Fan Controls/Truck Stats and Windows/Speedometer? It seems very unlikely several would have blown at one time but I guess could happen? There are two fuses designated (Radio 1 & Radio 2) but still the radio doesn't work even those were tested good? What purpose do those fuses serve?
2) What other fuses do you suggest I check?
3) If not the fuses, what other suggestions?
I will try to upload some pictures
October, 8, 2012 AT 4:09 AM
I have listed the fuse that is for those components listed. Try swapping the ECU-B fuse with the dome and see if there are any changes.
October, 8, 2012 AT 5:53 AM
I indeed swapped that fuse out with several others, when testing per your last request. I've swapped out various other fuses with it as well. I've also checked every 10amp, 15amp, 20amp, 30amp fuse in the door dinger(DOME) slot. Every fuse has shown to be good. If any had been bad they would not have caused the door to ding when inserting. I've physically looked at every fuse twice and none show to be blown. I've never had a problem quickly spotting such having worked at an auto auction for 14 years. Not as a mechanic but I'm very familiar with such.
I understand the requests and can keep checking fuses. However, at some point I'm going to need a different suggestion because the fuses are proving not to be the issue.
October, 8, 2012 AT 10:38 AM
Since you have so many probles which could be related, we shall start with diagnosis for the power windows which should be the easiest of the lot.
For a start, you would need a test light or DVOM.
Remove the master switch from its seat and check the Blue/Orange (Red) wire (terminal #7) of the switch for battery voltage (hot at all times).
If voltage available, turn ignition switch on and test terminal # 11 ( Black/Red (or Black)) wire for battery voltage.
October, 8, 2012 AT 1:26 PM
Are you talking about checking the windows/door lock module from the driver door itself? I'm not good about reading schematics so any other photos or description would help as well.
October, 8, 2012 AT 1:44 PM
Remove the part shown to get at the wires under it.
October, 8, 2012 AT 2:33 PM
Ok, I removed the door panel and have provided some pics of the wiring disconnect. I turned the key on and checked the power to the largest Red wire which did show 12v. So that wire has power according to my DVOM. Are there any other wires I should check as there are several other red and red/multi colored one's?
The door locks are functional, btw.
P.S. It will probably be several hours before I can troubleshoot further. I appreciate the help.
October, 8, 2012 AT 2:37 PM
The largest Red wire is shown nearer the bottom in the first photo. I think it is on the bottom row, second from left, in the picture showing the front of the harness disconnect.
October, 8, 2012 AT 4:44 PM
With ignition switch turned on, there must be another wire with battery voltage. Terminal in your pic should be the Black wire ( between Green abd Blue)