Has no spark

Tiny
LEDIY99
  • 2004 HYUNDAI SONATA
  • 144 MILES

Autozone said "crank shaft positioning sensor"was bad. Replaced it. Replaced long timing belt but did not touch small belt as it was "pristine". Made absolutely sure ALL timing marks aligned before and after installing belt. No spark.

Code reader says cam/crank shaft sensor failure. Failure at line "a". Failure Pending. (Code is P0335) Have tried deleting code to no effect. Engine turns over just fine, but I have no spark at either coil pack. What do you suggest?

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Thursday, January 12th, 2012 AT 2:29 PM

36 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Check and test the crankshaft position sensor-

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Thursday, January 12th, 2012 AT 2:38 PM
Tiny
LEDIY99
  • MEMBER

And just exactly how do I do that? I have already put an Ohm meter across from terminal to terminal (3) on both the old and new (still on the engine) and got nothing. Tried unpluging the cam shaft positioning sensor and the code remained the same.

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Thursday, January 12th, 2012 AT 2:43 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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  • 42,073 POSTS

If the code cannot be erased, that means there is a fault with the circuit. Either there is a break in the wiring, connectors not plugged in or you have a faulty sensor.

New sensors can be faulty as well.

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Thursday, January 12th, 2012 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
LEDIY99
  • MEMBER

Code will erase, but comes back as soon as I turn the key. As I said, both the old and new sensors read "zero" across all 3 terminals. Is that correct? Should I be getting a reading across 2 of them? If I look for voltage on the female socket what would I read? Also, the readout says CAM/crank shaft sensor failure, so I tried unpluging the CAM shaft sensor and the code P0335 came back.

Do I need to have the dealer put it on Their Machine in order to tell the "brain" the part has been replaced and it is OK to start now?

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Thursday, January 12th, 2012 AT 3:39 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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  • 42,073 POSTS

There is no necessity to use the dealer to program the computer.

If the code is erased and comes back as soon as you turn the key, it means the problem is still there. You need to check for voltage to the camsensor and continuity between sensor and PCM wirring.

How dit you measure the sensor and under what condition?

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Thursday, January 12th, 2012 AT 4:43 PM
Tiny
LEDIY99
  • MEMBER

Put meter across prongs in male end 1-2, 2-3, 3-1. No resistance (continuity) on either one. Read one at a time to ground to see if I had pinched the wire while closing up. No reading of any sort, another words no short to ground. Tried unpluging the CAM sensor to see if I got another code, but it still comes up P0335. Shouldn't I have gotten another code? In addition to the first one. I am not at all sure that the crank sensor was bad. I have a sneaking suspicion something else is causing the problem. But I've been wrong befor!

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Thursday, January 12th, 2012 AT 4:54 PM
Tiny
LEDIY99
  • MEMBER

What voltage am I looking for at the CAM sensor?
Getting back to "razmataz's" answer How do I do that!
Getting back to KHlow2008"s answer, yes, I know that just because something is "brand new' doesn't make it good. I have seen condensors (correct name is capacitors) that were bad right out of the box. Same with light bulbs. Just not very often.
Now then what voltage am I looking for to the cam sensor?

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Thursday, January 12th, 2012 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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P0335 is for the cranksensor. Cam sensor needs the engine to be cranked for a certain time and speed before it would register.

Refer to the following charts to see if you can come up with anything.

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Friday, January 13th, 2012 AT 3:08 PM
Tiny
LEDIY99
  • MEMBER

OK, Now "we" are getting somewhere! The pages you included allowed me to determine that there IS voltage to the sensor. In the process I DID figure out how to "test/read" the sensor while it is still on the vehicle. I'm tempted to say how I accomplished that (for a fee!) But that would be mean. All I had to do was take a wire from the positive battery terminal to the "top" pin on the plug (red wire). Then read the return voltage on the lower right pin (black wire). Both the old and new sensors read about 10+ volts returning. Come Monday we are going to tow it to a local shop and put it on their machine.
Figure 180 says to measure resistance between ground and CKP terminal #1. I read MORE than 1 ohm, 2. Something. Is that OK? Then it says to measure voltage between ground and CKP terminal #2. I got 4.68volts. Is that OK?
The only test I couldn't do was the "A/T:Disconnect PCM connector C44-2" as none of the paper work I have available to me told me WHERE that plug was.
I have learned a couple of things while working on this problem. 1) I will NOT work on another late model car without access to the Factory Shop Manual for that vehicle right from the start. 2)I will (most likely) NOT take the diagnosis from a Code reader as "fact".
Will check back later to see if anyone responds to the questions I just asked.
PS. I am NOT happy with the first 2 responses at all. The next 1 was not much help. The 4th one was at least some help. But for the money I got charged I am not at all happy. I was led to believe I wouldn't pay if I wasn't "totally satisfied" but I don't see a way to change that now. As a result I will not recommend this site. Sincerly, Mr. Wise

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Saturday, January 14th, 2012 AT 4:12 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Refer to diagram for connector. It is behind lower center of dash.

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Saturday, January 14th, 2012 AT 4:47 PM
Tiny
LEDIY99
  • MEMBER

KHLow2008, The diagrams you included did help some. Eventually I got some help via another site. In the end I did find "the problem". This is quite embarrasing to admit, but it seems that when I was trying different ways to dress the wiring to ensure it didn't rub on the timming belt (there is PRECIOUS LITTLE CLEARANCE) I accidentally installed the sensor 180 degress out of position. That is to say Backwards! The plate was passing Behind the sensor rather than through the slot! No wonder the engine wouldn't start! If I worked on cars for a living I wouldn't forgive myself, but I was "coming out of retirement" to help a friend who is about broke. After the engine started I heard a "pop" and then noticed a Bright spark at the ignition wire to the #1 cyl. We replaced 2 ingition wires and that helped the idle. Would have replaced the coil packs but at $80 each that will have to wait. He desperately needs to repair the half shafts and 4 tires. BUT WAIT, now the Starter has taken a dump! He has no money for that and I can't loan him any more than I have already. "If it weren't for bad luck."
In total I used 4 web sites in an effort to get help. 3 were "free", 1 asked for a $2 donation (this site?) And 1 charged me $36. The first 4 were of little to marginal help. The last one was totally useless. Should I find myself doing any more work on late model cars I will insist that the owner get me the FACTORY SHOP MANUAL. My mechanical skills are acctually quite good despite this disasster. But having the manual would have made all the difference. I still have over 30 manuals I collected over the years including the one for the 1962 Rambler Classic Stationwagon I learned to drive in! Time was I knew the average life expectancy of most parts on popular vehicles from the early 60's to mid 70's. Knowing the milage told me a lot. Looking at the engine, smelling the engine added to that and listening to it crank and fire up told me everything I needed to know. I could take a car (say a 60 something 283 cu in Chevy)that hadn't run right in years and restore it to "tire chirping status" with a full tune-up, carb. And valve adjust. Got a call one time to fix a Nova that had dontated it's original 327 for a latter model 350. It didn't idle right. First thing I did was verify the firing order. 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2.9. NINE? What the? Seems that the #8 wire from the distributor was dangling behind the engine while the wire from the #8 cyl. Was laying on the intake manifold. That would do it! So I'm not the only one who makes silly mistakes!
Thanks again for the diagrams. DW (lediy99)

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Saturday, February 4th, 2012 AT 2:55 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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  • 42,073 POSTS

This is a free site. You are not obligated to make any donations and if any had been made and you are not satisfied with the answers, you can ask for a refund.

We try to help as best as we can and when we post something, you have to come back if you are not sure or the information is not what you are looking for.

We do do not understand the level of mechanical skill we are dealing with so our answers would be general.

With excessive cranking, starters can go out if they are not in good condition but usually it is the carbon brushes areare worn.

Some knocking on the starter might coax some life into it for the time being.

Everybody makes mistakes, even I do even though I am still working on cars daily. It really is embarassing when I have to explain to customers that I made a silly mistake.

Let me know if you require any additional help.

Have a nice day.

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Sunday, February 5th, 2012 AT 5:34 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

The CPS job is to identify the position of the pistons, detect misfires and tell the computer to fire the coil/s-A problem with the CPS will cause a No Spark and other areas within the ignition system circuitry

BTW Condenser or Capacitor its the same thing-Just like MIL/CEL/SES -it stores energy till its needed-it works like a sponge soak in water-squeeze it and out she goes-Dunno where that subject came from I thought were dealing within the CPS

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Sunday, February 5th, 2012 AT 8:16 AM
Tiny
FILLERS
  • 2004 HYUNDAI SONATA
  • 100,456 MILES

Ive changed cps+cam senser +plugs=coil pack+air flow metor+electric module that sends power to coil connectors 3 pin and I keep getting fault code p0320
i changed another coil pack today still no spark but the coil pack over heating and a big bulge on side of coil pack and was red hot ive changed so mutch things what could be the problem I cant find a short anywhare? And it looks like a short to ground; please any help app thanks

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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 10:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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  • 31,152 POSTS

What size engine do you have?

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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 10:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPROS MIKE
  • ADMIN
  • 711 POSTS

2.0L ENGINE 4 CYLINDER

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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 10:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
  • 31,152 POSTS

I posted the wire diagram and the trouble tree for code P0320 follow it and let me know what you find. Please post all replies on this question.

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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 10:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MICHAEL LYNCH2
  • 2004 HYUNDAI SONATA
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 92,000 MILES

Hi, I change the timing belt as it has chewed teeth. I also changed the head gasket and the two exhaust valves on number four cylinder as they were snapped off. Changed the crank sensor as it had been destroyed by the teeth that were in the timing cover. All back together and I have compression and fuel but no spark. I have checked the crank sensor installation and it is running correctly (ie) the sensor plate is the right way around and is running correctly through the sensor magnetic field. I have checked all the timing marks and everything lines up on TDC after numerous revolutions. The crank sensor only has.3 volts coming from the PCM at the connector to the CKS which I think is the problem as I believe I read it should be around five Volts. So it all cranks etc but no spark at the plugs. Any suggestions?

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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 10:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
  • 49,775 POSTS

Check all your fuses under hood then try a security system reset as it may be the culprit. Then scan for codes if you can. Also, check engine control relay right hand side of dash and fuses 17 and 18 inside car.

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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 10:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MICHAEL LYNCH2
  • MEMBER

Okay, thanks I will try that today. My OBD2 reader is not connecting with the ECU. It is a cheap one and it not the first time I have had this problem with it. Bluetooth's to my phone okay, but then will not connect to the ECU so not able to scan unless I go buy another one which I cannot afford to do until next payday. I have checked the internal fuses already and they are all okay, but have not done under the hood. Not sure how to do a security system reset, but will check it out. I have had some issues with the system not disarming since I bought it so it could well be the problem. Will keep you posted cheers!

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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 10:01 AM (Merged)

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