WINDOW DOSNT WORK. IS IT THE SWITCH OR THE MODULE??
2004 Honda Pilot
June, 26, 2012 AT 5:38 PM
2004 Honda pilot
The drivers window motor does not work. Applied voltage and ground to the motor and motor works up and down. When I press the switch in the up or down position I hear the drivers
window module click like a relay but nothing happens with the window motor. Have no voltage being sent to the motor on the up or down circuit. Do u think cause I hear the module click it it's receiving the signal from the multiplex switch and it's the drivers door window module at fault? I replaced the window motor and I did not fix the problem I think it's in the multiplex switch or the window door module. Don't know where to go from here?
Where did you get that 12 volts and ground from that you used to jump the motor? Look for broken wires between the door hinges.
June, 26, 2012 AT 8:06 PM
Used a power probe.(Same as jumper wires from batt.) Tried wiggling the harness before and didn't get any jump but I can open the harness up and look. Any way to check voltage at the switch or somewhere else near the window motor to make sure I have a short or open? Like if the switch is supposed to have voltage at some pin that gets power and if it has power than I can cancel out a short?
June, 26, 2012 AT 10:00 PM
It depends on whether a computer and / or relays are involved in the circuit. On older cars there will be one wire to the driver's switch that always has 12 volts with the ignition switch on. Identify that one first. Then there will be five other wires. Two go to the driver's window motor, two go to the passenger side switch, and one is ground. All of those five other wires must read continuity to ground when all window switches are released.
If you're missing the 12 volts, that is the circuit to diagnose. If you're missing ground to all the other wires on the switch, check the wire between the door hinges. If you're missing the ground on just one or two wires, suspect burned contacts inside the switch. For each window there are two individual switches built into the assembly. The ground circuit is made through the relaxed half of one of those switches.
Things get more involved with the passenger window circuit. If that window works from the driver's switch, the 12 volt feed and ground wires are okay. That leaves the driver's switch as the likely suspect.
If you have a computer involved with this formerly simple and reliable circuit, you may find fewer wires on the switch, they may be smaller in diameter than the wires going to the motor, and there won't be any wires going straight from the switch to the motor.
June, 26, 2012 AT 11:19 PM
All the other windows work except the drivers front window. Do you think the switch is working cause I hear the window module in the door "click" when I hit the drivers window up or down? Or can it still be the multiplex switch? It's a friend of mines car so I only can work on it here and there. He bought the window motor thinking it was an easy fix and I put it in for him so that's the only reason it has a new motor. But at least I can rule that out. On top of that I wanna lean more twards the multiplex switch being at fault than the module cause the switch is used constantly and Honda parts said they don't sell many modules for that car. Just trying to find the easiest diag way to help a friend out instead of having him just throw parts at it.
June, 26, 2012 AT 11:22 PM
Also it has a fuse under the passenger kick panel and in the engine pdc and both are good.
June, 26, 2012 AT 11:30 PM
By "window module", are you referring to a computer module? In the door where there's no chance of it getting wet? Where do the wires go for the motor, to that module or to the switch?
June, 26, 2012 AT 11:41 PM
The two main power wires I used to jump the motor up and down go into the door module. Then split off I think into the harness and I guess into the switch but the wires change color. I can unplug the connector at the door module( which is on the door shell. Don't think it can get wet unless door panel and moisture barrier is off) and apply power and ground to my two wires that run to the motor and the window goes up and down. So I think the wires run from inside the car into the switch then into the module then into the motor? I guess. Don't have a wiring diagram at this point.
June, 27, 2012 AT 12:20 AM
Boy, ya gotta love the unnecessary use of computers. I can't get into the wiring diagrams either on this computer.
How many wires are on the switch? Is that running four windows? At this point I would recommend measuring the voltages on the switch and on the motor. Every wire on the switch should have 12 volts at some point, (except the ground wire), when the switch is pressed one way or the other. If one wire doesn't, I'd suspect that first and take it apart to see if there was a burned contact I could clean with sandpaper.
The next thing is to measure the voltages on both motor wires when you press the switch. In one direction, one wire must have 12 volts and the other one must have 0 volts. If you find less than 12 volts on just one wire, that suggests a poor switch or relay contact. If you find more than 0 volts on the second wire, that suggests a high resistance in the ground circuit. If you find 12 volts on both wires, that means there's an open ground circuit. What I don't know yet is whether that ground circuit goes through half of the switch or through the module.
June, 27, 2012 AT 12:30 AM
I should be able to test that tomorrow and let you kno what I find on the voltage test
June, 27, 2012 AT 6:32 PM
Finally found a wiring diagram and found the up and down circuit wires coming from the switc to the module. With the switch in the up position it's got 12v at the switch connector( same on the down circuit). Followed the wire to the window door module and checked at the connector and it's getting 12v there to. So to me the module is receiving the 12v from the switch but not sending any voltage to the motor. Thinking the module is at fault.