2004 Chrysler Crossfire Strange Electrical Issues

Tiny
BBLANCHARD33
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHRYSLER CROSSFIRE
  • 89,000 MILES
I am experiencing the following symptoms: 1. Alarm sets its self off, even while driving. 2. Cruise control is disabled if I turn on the headlights. 3. Turning on the headlights and pressing the brake pedal seems to simulate the key being in the ignition and in the ON position. For example I can turn on the headlights and press the brake pedal with the key in the OFF position, or not even in the key cylinder, the instrument panel lights up and the fuel pump turns on. If I have been driving with the headlights on and I come to a stop, I can hold the brake pedal, turn the key and remove it from the ignition cylinder, and the car will keep running until I turn off the headlights, or release the brake pedal.

So far I have tried replacing the illumination control module (headlight switch) and I am still having symptoms. I have the dealership repair manuals if you need to reference any specific pages or wiring diagrams. I'm not sure where to continue my diagnosis from here. I'm trying to see if there is something I can try to test before giving up and taking my car to the dealership. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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Thursday, November 14th, 2013 AT 8:24 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Clean the battery terminal ends first. Then clean the battery to body ground and engine to battery ground. It souldn't like you don't have a good ground going to the body. So the electrical finds a ground where ever it can. Also check ground at right side of trunk that can be loose or corroded possibly from stuff hitting it in the trunk
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Friday, November 15th, 2013 AT 7:15 AM
Tiny
BBLANCHARD33
  • MEMBER
Thanks. The ones under the hood and trunk are easy to get to so I'll start with those. There are seven grounds around the interior, three of which I will have to remove the dash panel and center console to get to. I'll test all the ones I can access first, then tear out the dash and console if all the grounds test good.

The Powertrain Control Module (cruise control is wired to this) is at G100 & G101 (engine compartment). The alarm siren is at G101 (engine compartment). The Instrument Cluster, and Illumination Control Module are at G200 (under the upper left dash panel). The left rear lamp assemblies are at G300 (left side of trunk). Central Locking Pump / Security System Module, and right rear lamp assemblies are at G301 (right side of trunk). Since the displayed symptoms seem to be operated by components that are grounded at these locations are these the grounds to suspect?
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Friday, November 15th, 2013 AT 7:50 AM
Tiny
BBLANCHARD33
  • MEMBER
I tested all the grounds I can reach. The following tested voltage with the engine off, and the engine on.

ENGINE BAY
Battery 12.51, 14.52
G100 12.52, 14.52, left side of engine compartment
G101 12.52, 14.52, right side of engine compartment
G104 12.53, 14.51, top front of engine
G107 12.53, 14.52, right side of engine compartment, battery negative ground

PASSENGER AREA
G200 12.53, 14.46, behind left side of instrument panel at base of windshield
G201 12.53, 14.46, lower left footwell behind kickpanel
G202 under center console at the occupant restraint controller
G203 under the center console
G204 12.53, 14.47, lower right footwell behind kickpanel
G205 12.53, 14.50, upper left rear passenger compartment
G206 12.53, 14.48, lower right footwell behind kickpanel

TRUNK
G300 12.53, 14.50, left luggage compartment behind trim panel
G301 12.53, 14.50, lower right luggage compartment behind trim panel
G303 12.53, 14.50, upper right luggage compartment behind trim panel

I have not removed the center console to reach grounds at G202 and G203. The following components are grounded at these locations:

G202 Occupant Restraint Controller, Driver Seat Belt Tensioner Switch, Passenger Seat Belt Tensioner Switch, Passenger Seat Occupant Simulator, Left Side Impact Sensor, Right Side Impact Sensor

G203 Left Heated Seat Cushion, Left Heated Seat Back, Right Heated Seat Cushion, Right Heated Seat Back, Shift Lever Assembly, Park Brake Switch, Radio, Power Mirror Switch

Do you still recommend pulling the center console to test the grounds at G202 and G203? These components do not appear to be symptomatic or failing.
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Friday, November 15th, 2013 AT 8:58 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
I wouldn't the ones that I sent are theones that deal with the alarm system and the other ones you are talking about. Of cousr there cold aslo be a problem with the anti theft so it shold be scanned. To see if there is.
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Friday, November 15th, 2013 AT 9:21 AM
Tiny
BBLANCHARD33
  • MEMBER
I performed a bunch of tests on the Central Locking Pump / Security System Module (CLP/SSM). I found multiple tests that failed. The following are tests I performed that Failed:

CLP/SSM Undervoltage (8Q-2), Test 4. Voltage of the Fused B(+) circuit (cavity 4) at the CLP/SSM C2 harness connector. Is voltage above 11 volts? Yes >> Replace the Central Locking Pump / Security System Module. My voltage reading was 12.08

CAN B Bus (+) Circuit Failure, Test 3. Measure the resistance between ground and the CAN B Bus (+) circuit at the CLP/SSM harness connector. Is the resistance below 10k ohms? No >> Replace the Central Locking Pump / Security System Module. I was unable to get any resistance reading from the Multimeter.

I am going to order a replacement CLP/SSM and see if this resolves the issue.
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Saturday, November 16th, 2013 AT 11:57 AM
Tiny
BBLANCHARD33
  • MEMBER
So before purchasing and installing a new CLP/SSM I decided to do some other tests. I am getting 1.5 ohms of resistance and about 4-5 volts of current in the CAN B Bus (+ and -) connections from the BCM to the CLP/SSM. The manual indicates that anything above 1 ohm should be repaired for and open circuit, and any presence of voltage should be repaired for a short.

I think I may have a short. I don't see any strange looking wires at the harnesses. I can't see anything down the wires that looks burnt or exposed (although I haven't checked the whole thing). I wonder if I have an exposed section of wire that is barely shorted to ground.

Any idea on where to go from here? Should I pull the harness and check the whole wire from beginning to end?
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Monday, November 18th, 2013 AT 12:33 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
That is kind of a big job to pull the harness and then get it all back together again correctly. If there was anything that was recently installed check around there as maybe a screw is contacting the wire as that happens more often then not. I'm not sure it still works but if you have a small compass try to run it along the suspected area and if it starts to go all over the place then that is where the short is. It used work but not sure about now with the lower voltages. One other thing, sometimes when you put stuff like headlights and other things on it sends power through systems that normally don't need it because it is overloading the one circuit like hitting the brakes and headlight and the radio plays. I'm not an electronic engineer bu ti know it happens. Have you tried disconnecting things like cruise module to see if you stil have the same problem or the alarm itself? Other than that I have on further suggestions to give you.
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Monday, November 18th, 2013 AT 12:43 PM
Tiny
BBLANCHARD33
  • MEMBER
I wanted to let you know I finally figured it out last week. I started unplugging wiring harnesses to any devices I suspected as faulty, and tried replicating symptoms. The only thing I unplugged that stopped everything was the right rear tail light. I removed the assembly and inspected the wiring. There were no wiring issues. I found that the stop lamp bulb was not perfectly seated in the bulb harness. Once I put the bulb in properly the symptoms ceased. Thanks for your help.
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Wednesday, November 27th, 2013 AT 5:29 AM

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