Brake booster replacement instructions please?

Tiny
ERERERT
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • 4.8L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Replaced rotors, calibers, rubber lines and flushed sys w/pressure bleeder, Lost fluid to rear (master went dry). I noticed the fluid enters the booster so it need to be changed out. Thanks
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Sunday, March 16th, 2014 AT 10:33 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
DANNY L
  • EXPERT
Hello, I'm Danny.

Here is the information you requested. Be sure to just move the brake master cylinder slightly out of the way so that you don't have to open a line and then have to bleed the brake system. I've attached picture steps below on how to change the power brake booster on your Chevy Tahoe. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Friday, March 12th, 2021 AT 12:58 AM
Tiny
CLYNN63
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
The brakes would not lock up when you were driving and a mechanic told us it was probably the brake booster. We need to changed it.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 9:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good morning,

The brakes should not lock up up on a stop. That would indicate an issue.

I attached the procedure for you for the booster replacement.

Roy

Hydraulic Brake Booster Replacement

Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant in Service Precautions.

Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components in Service Precautions.

Notice: Hydraulic brake systems use two distinct and incompatible fluids. Power steering fluid is used in the hydraulic brake booster system. Brake fluid is used in the master cylinder and brake pipes. Use extreme care when selecting brake system fluids, or seal damage can result Refer to General Information to select the correct fluid.

Checking and Adding Fluid
For information on checking and adding fluid to the hydraulic booster system, refer to Checking and Adding Power Steering Fluid (Without Hydroboost) or Checking and Adding Power Steering Fluid (With Hydroboost) in Power Steering System.

Bleeding the Hydraulic Booster System
Refer to Bleeding the Power Steering System in Power Steering System

Flushing the Hydraulic Booster System
Refer to Flushing the Power Steering System in Power Steering System.

Removal Procedure
1. Apply the park brake and block the wheels.
2. Disconnect the inlet hose, the steering gear. And the return hoses from the booster assembly
3. Remove the master cylinder. Refer to Master Cylinder Replacement.
4. Remove the stop lamp switch Refer to Stop Lamp Switch Replacement in Lighting Systems.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

5. Remove the 4 booster to bulkhead nuts.
6. Remove the booster assembly.
7. Remove the gasket.

Installation Procedure
1. Install the gasket.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

2. Install the booster assembly.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

3. Install the 4 booster to bulkhead nuts.
Tighten the nuts to 33 Nm (24 ft. Lbs.).
4. Install the stop lamp switch. Refer to Stop Lamp Switch Replacement in Lighting Systems.
5. Install the master cylinder. Refer to Master Cylinder Replacement
6. Connect the return hose, the steering gear, and the inlet hoses.
7. Bleed the hydraulic booster system. Refer to Bleeding the Power Steering System in Power Steering System.
8. Release the park brake and unblock the wheels.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 9:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRISTY2264
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • 3.1L
  • 5 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 218,211 MILES
My brake booster light came on what does that mean
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 9:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
It sounds like you have a bad booster. Here are the instructions on how to change the brake booster out in the diagrams below. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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-2
Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 9:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VIC021
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 128,000 MILES
They have two brake boosters listed for my vehicle, one is the vacuum and the other is hydraulic brake booster. How do I know which to get.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 9:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • EXPERT
Brake booster if equipped will be a big black circular drum that the master cylinder bolts into the brake booster is bolted on the fire wall and it would have a vaccum hose goign to it.

If you dont have a booster instead youll have a master cylinder with a accumulator on it that has a bunch of warning lables on it and the power steering lines will be running to the brake booster.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 9:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
EMILY CHURCH
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 265,691 MILES
Replaced the front brakes. Back brakes are still good, as are the rotors. The problem I believe is the brake booster check valve. It is very hard to stop with the brake pedal, and the engine tries to stall out. I have checked auto part stores and the universal one is not the right size on the two port tubes that stick out on each end. And they all seem to think that because I am a female, that I really do not know what I am talking about. Any suggestions?
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 9:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good afternoon.

The check valve is for retaining vacuum in the booster when the engine is off. The vacuum will not bleed down when you start it.

If your pedal is hard, it is the booster itself and not the check valve.

Remove the check valve while it is running and check for vacuum at the valve. If there is, the booster is bad. If there is not then the check valve is bad.

Roy
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 9:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KIARAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 189,000 MILES
The other night I had to hit the brakes pretty hard, ever since then I can hear air leaking by at my feet and the brakes will work fine once I drive around for a little bit. But until then the pedal is hard and it has very little break action. I'm assuming I busted the diaphragm in the booster. Any other ideas or suggestions
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Some GM boosters have two diaphragms and a problem with one will cause what you described. That shouldn't happen though just from hard braking unless the vehicle stopped really quickly. There is a valve that falls out of position. You have to worry about that valve if you get a used booster from a salvage yard. Always carry it and haul it in its normally-installed orientation. If you set it on its front or back, that valve can fall out of place and you'll have the same problem. A rebuilt booster will come with a plastic cone inserted to hold that valve in place during transport. The clinker to this problem is the only people who even notice there's a problem are those who have owned the vehicle for a while and know what normal feels like. To other people unfamiliar with the vehicle, the brakes seem fine.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KIARAN
  • MEMBER
I replaced the check valve that's on the vacuum line to the booster from the manifold. Now I can jump in the truck and go to take off and have a very hard brake pedal with very little brake action. However if I drive it a while or let it sit there and run for a bit they work slot better. But after I hit the brake a few times especially if there is not much time between and they go back to being hard again.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
The valve I was referring to is inside the booster, not the vacuum check valve. That vacuum check valve can cause what you're describing too, but there will be other symptoms with it. One is you'll have normal power assist while the engine is running or decelerating during coasting, but even a slight acceleration will lower vacuum enough that you won't have much assist. That valve is supposed to store enough vacuum in the booster for two or three power-assisted stops during periods of low vacuum, like when accelerating. To test that valve, you have to start with normal power assist, stop the engine, wait perhaps ten to twenty seconds, then apply the brakes. You should still have power assist for at least two pedal applications. If the check valve is leaking, you will have no power assist as soon as the engine stops.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GENE64
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 198,000 MILES
When you depress the brake pedel, a swishing sound was heard. I noticed the brake fluid resivior was low. I checked the front pads and decided to change them and in the process I decided to replace the old brake fluid with new. I got the one man bottle from advance Store and attached it to the brake line, opened the brake fitting and depressed the pedel filling the container up with old fluid meanwhile keeping the vesovior full. All when great except it still has the swishing sound. What in the world is the swishing sound when I depress the brake pedel.

Thanks

gene
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PEAR69
  • MEMBER
That is air in the brake lines. You must bleed all 4 brakes. Start from the right rear--then left rear--then the right front --and then the left front--in that order. If still you get the sound then it is probably the master cylinder.
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+1
Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNIN
  • MEMBER
The rubber diaphram is leaking in your power brake booster and the vacuum leak is causing the swishing sound. I had the exact same problem in my 1995. The hardest part about changing it out is getting the stupid clip off the brake pedal end, under the dash. Have fun! Make sure you dont brake the brake light switch in the process.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)

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