Cannot get the fitting out of the steering box housing

Tiny
VPDIY
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD EXPLORER
  • 70,000 MILES
I am replacing the power steering high pressure hose and its rusted fast to the housing.

All fasteners, clips, and retaining plates have been removed and the only thing left is to pull the fitting out of the steering box housing, but it will not budge and rusted fast. Have been soaking it with PB Blaster to attempt to break it loose. I am reluctant to put heat on it for fear to damage to steering box seals and internals. Any suggestions
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Thursday, November 24th, 2011 AT 2:06 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Continue the PB blaster and keep tapping on it with a screwdriver or other lighter item. It should come loose
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Thursday, November 24th, 2011 AT 2:24 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Try some twisting force while tapping it.
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Thursday, November 24th, 2011 AT 2:30 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
DONE KNARLED IT ALL UP?

STILL ABLE TO GET A BITE?

I LOVE HEAT!

HEAT IS MY FRIEND!

I LOOKED AT PICS OF YOUR PUMP AT AUTO ZONE AND ON OREILLY AUTO PARTS ON LINE

I THINK THAT IF YOU WRAP THE MAJORITY OF THE PUMP W/ A SOPPING WET RAG

HAVE YOUR WRENCH AT THE READY

AND APPLY HEAT FROM A PLUMBERS "TURBO TORCH" (HANDHELD UNIT, W/ MAPP GAS)---NOT A REGULAR OLD PROPANE UNIT (LOOKS SIMILAR THOUGH)OR USE A PINPOINT TIP ON A ACETYLENE RIG

SOMETHING THAT WILL IMMEDIATELY AND VERY QUICKLY HEAT UP THE PORTION AROUND STUCK FITTING (THE BOSS) ONLY!I'M TALKING 15 SECONDS OF ROTATING THE HEAT THEN PASS OFF THE TORCH TO YOUR PAL AND GET ON IT W/ THE WRENCH REAL FAST!

IMMA PLUMBER, THIS IS WHAT I USE TO SOLDER AND ALSO DO "LIGHT" UN-STICKING OF PARTS (LIKE YOURS). COUPLED W/ A BOTTLE OF MAP GAS, IT'S THE NEXT BEST THING TO ACETYLENE!---10 TIMES BETTER THAN A PROPANE TORCH
KEEP YOUR RAG TIGHT AND WET---KEEP HEAT OFF OF THE FITTING TO BE EXTRACTED----THERE'S NO DOUBT THIS WILL GET IT OUT

THE "O" RING WILL MOST LIKELY BE FRIED, ONCE THE FITTING IS REMOVED--SO BE SURE TO CHANGE IT

HOPE THIS HELPS

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, November 24th, 2011 AT 3:52 PM
Tiny
VPDIY
  • MEMBER
Thanks to all for your suggestions. I am still working on the PB Blaster soaking & light tapping for the second day. The only twisting I can put on it is by putting a rotating tube at the bend going into the fitting. Very tough area to work in with brake lines, electrical cables and cooling lines occupying the same area - reason why I'm reluctant to use heat. Also tough to get another set of hands in there to assist. Will try to get a picture of situation, but again, thanks for the help.
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Friday, November 25th, 2011 AT 5:02 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Try retightening the lock nut and then turning it loose 2 or 3 turns and then try the tugging and bending. The lock nut would give you additional leverage for the end.
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Friday, November 25th, 2011 AT 1:22 PM
Tiny
VPDIY
  • MEMBER
I have not been able to budge the fitting with soaking with PB blaster and tapping it. Still have not tried heat due to o rings in adjacent fitting at the top. Have attached 2 photos, one of the fitting in the steering box (bottom one) and the other of the new hose without the o-ring in the groove to show what I'm dealing with. I cannot even get a tool to grip on the small shoulder to help trying to twist when using the gripping the tubing to try to get it to move. Suspect the fitting is rusted all the way to the o-ring inside the housing and the PB Blaster is not getting in to it. Got me baffled.
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Sunday, November 27th, 2011 AT 7:31 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
SOMETIMES YOU MUST SACRIFICE AND DO WHAT YOU GOTTA DO!

HOW BOUT THIS

BORROW A HEAVY DUTY DEEP WELL SOCKET THE CORRECT SIZE....FROM YOUR NEIGHBOR

GRIND IT SIMILAR TO A O2 SENSOR SOCKET (SIDE PARTIALLY GROUND OUT)

THIS IS NOT A GOOD PIC

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_O2-Sensor-Skt-7-8-X-Lisle_25981308-P_N3409A_T%7CGRP2062_____

THIS ONE IS A LITTLE BETTER

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=SER3920_0006401165

ANYWAY....CHOPPING THE SIDE OUT OF THE SOCKET YOU BORROWED FROM YOUR NEIGHBOR MAY HAVE WEAKENED IT.....ADD INSURANCE!

PLACE SOCKET OVER THE NUT---OPEN A HOSE CLAMP ALL THE WAY UP AND PUT IT OVER THE SOCKET (OVER THE NUT PORTION YOU ARE REMOVING)---TIGHTEN IT DOWN TIGHT (THIS WILL GIVE SOME ADDED STRENGTH SO THE SOCKET DOES NOT "SPREAD OPEN"

ONCE YOU GET IT BROKE LOOSE, REMOVE THE HOSE CLAMP--THE SOCKET SHOULD BE STOUT ENOUGH TO SCREW IT ON OUT

COURSE W/ THE HOSE IN THE WAY, YOU WILL HAVE TO PICK IT UP AND MOVE IT TO ANOTHER POSITION AS YOU PROGRESS

SOUND LIKE A PLAN?

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, November 27th, 2011 AT 8:08 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
YOU MAY HAVE TO DO A LOT OF THINKING AND PLANNING AS TO WHERE TO GRIND THE SOCKET

IT MUST SLIDE ON (LINE UP ON NUT)

IT MUST BE CAPABLE OF TURNING THE CORRECT DIRECTION BEFORE IT CONTACTS THE TUBING. EVEN IF IT'S JUST A LITTLE BIT. THEN BE ABLE TO REMOVE IT AND GET ANOTHER "BITE" TO CONTINUE

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, November 27th, 2011 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The joint shown is not for the high pressure hose. That should be the feed hose.

Since you are replacing the hose, cut off the pipe somewhere 3 or 4 inches from the almost 90 degrees bend and use a hammer to tap the sawn off part downwards to make a U turn to allow you to use a screw driver as lever to twist the pipe.
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Monday, November 28th, 2011 AT 12:13 PM
Tiny
VPDIY
  • MEMBER
CJMEDEVAC, the socket idea would be a great idea if the Ford engineers had put a hex surface on the slip fitting so you could do that would have made life so much easier. Almost to the point now of going with heat as you suggested because it's still not moving. The one that's frozen is the lower right hand one with the black tube that is held in by the retaining plate that is in turn bolted to the rack housing (terrific design). Will keep your socket idea in mind for screw fittings though. Thanks
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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 6:18 AM
Tiny
VPDIY
  • MEMBER
KHLow, I can get a good enough grip on the hose as it is, but think the tubing would just bend and break, then I'd have nothing to grab on to. I was almost thinking about cutting the tubing as close to the fitting as possible and then using an easy out and ratchet wrench to try to twist it loose. Only downside is that if didn't work, I'm dead and it's new rack time !
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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 6:28 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
I KNOW ROOM IS LIMITED

COOL THING IS YOU CAN FLIP THE HEAD AND TURN THE OTHER DIRECTION

TRY TO STAY ON THE THICKEST DIAMETER NEXT TO THE ASSEMBLY

ANOTHER POSSIBILITY SMALL HOSE CLAMP TIGHT AROUND THE TUBE AND PRY OFF OF IT

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 6:56 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
If you cut the tubing, insert a metal rod into the pipe to support the tube and you can try to wiggle it loose with the rod instead of the pipe.

The rod would reinforce the pipe if you were to use a grip plier or wrench to turn it.
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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 4:22 PM
Tiny
VPDIY
  • MEMBER
Both great ideas guys, will try later today. Thanks
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Thursday, December 1st, 2011 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
HARLEYDUDE65B
  • MEMBER
My 03 ranger power steering lines were like that and I cut them off flush and screwed a long sheet metal screw into them then locked vise grips on the screw and used a 24 inch pry bar against the grips and pulled the top section of the fitting out then I took drill bits and by hand just kept drilling a little bigger each time until the corrosion was gone I then took a pick and popped it out I hope this helps.
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Wednesday, May 14th, 2014 AT 8:50 AM

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