Something is way screwed up with that method. Ohms means nothing in this case. You're going to be reading computer memory circuits that are trying to charge up, and other circuits that are being turned on by a computer and draining the battery won't even BE turned on since the little battery in your meter isn't strong enough to run all those computers. Even if you did that on an older car with no computers, doing the math, 2 ohms would mean there would be over 6 amps of current flow. That would be the same as leaving one high beam head light on. There is absolutely no way an ohm meter is going to give you any type of accurate reading from the battery cables. You must do any testing for a current drain with an ammeter inserted in the circuit. You have an additional problem of computers that have to time out and go to "sleep mode". They can draw a total of around three amps for up to 20 minutes after stopping the engine. Any testing done during that 20 minutes is irrelevant. After that 20 minutes anything you do to temporarily break the circuit will wake the computers up again and start that 20 minute cycle all over. That includes even switching ranges on the meter. I'm working on a drawing that will help explain how to test for a drain because other people have run into the same problem. I'll post that when it's finished, hopefully in a few hours. In the meantime, you're going to need an ammeter that can measure up to 2 amps, (2000 milliamps), and it should have a 10 amp scale too, and you'll need a jumper wire that can be attached to the battery post on one end and the cable clamp on the other end. Clips for your meter leads will be real helpful too so you don't have to hold onto them with two hands, leaving you to pull fuses with your, ... Uhm, ... Other hand!
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Saturday, March 26th, 2011 AT 9:11 PM