Ignition

Tiny
ALAUMD88
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 TOYOTA CELICA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 133 MILES
I turn the key in my ignition and all electrical power dies instantly when its supposed to crank. Nothing unusual up until it hits "run". A minute later, power is restored spontaneously and the alarm is blaring. I try unsuccessfully to start the car a few more times, and sometimes, when power is restored, the lights are dim and buzzer is weak. Eventually full power returns by itself. In the past I have had to jiggle the key a bit it seems to get the engine to crank but never has the electric cut off suddenly like its been doing now. Is there a short or loose wire in the ignition switch and how do I test for that and replace it? 2002 Celica GTS in good shape. No other electrical issues. Is this a keyless entry reprogramming issue?

If I get a good answer here I have another mystery to solve on this car regarding poor idle when raining.
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Monday, March 28th, 2011 AT 6:03 AM

6 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Sounds like you need to take care of the ignition switch 1st get it check by a qualified auto electrical specialist could be very well be a KERI problem
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Monday, March 28th, 2011 AT 7:47 AM
Tiny
ALAUMD88
  • MEMBER
What is a KERI problem? Is it fairly straightforward to replace the ignition switch? If so, may be more affordable for me just to replace it since I do most of my own automotive work. Or this replacement of the switch a major process involving airbag connections, etc.
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Tuesday, March 29th, 2011 AT 3:14 PM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
What it sounds like to me is that there is an internal short from the start terminal to ground or that the switch is cutting the power when the 'Start' position is reached. Do any of the lights work when the key is turned to 'Start'? If this is the case, test the battery to see if it is able to supply the current the car needs to start, known as a load test.

The ignition switch is located on the bottom side of the steering column. You will have to remove the plastic covering from the steering column to access the switch. The switch will be secured to the underside of the column with either two or three bolts.
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Thursday, June 2nd, 2011 AT 5:16 AM
Tiny
ALAUMD88
  • MEMBER
For everyone's benefit, I am back here providing the solution to the problem described above. It was NOT the switch or the ignition circuit. It was simply the battery. Replaced it and no more issues!

Starting the car drew all the remaining charge in the weak battery and that explains everything. As soon as the ignition switch was open again, the battery regained sufficient charge to confuse the picture. The ignition switch has NOT acted up again since I changed the battery. It was a 7 year Walmart battery that lasted only 3+ years. The 3rd Walmart battery that has gone bad for me since the heat wave of 2011 summer with sustained temps in the 110's in Oklahoma.
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Saturday, April 28th, 2012 AT 9:49 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Thanks for coming back with the fix
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Saturday, April 28th, 2012 AT 11:59 PM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
Yes, thank you very much for letting us know it's been fixed.
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Sunday, April 29th, 2012 AT 12:58 AM

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