I have an issue with my 2002 Saturn SL1 over 200,000 k.

Tiny
JEWLS4U1976
  • 2002 SATURN SL1
  • 229,000 MILES

Hi, I have an issue with my 2002 Saturn sl1 over 200,000 k. I started it the other day and the oil presser light came on so I turned the car off and checked the oil. It was a little low but good. It has been burning oil a lot. So I tried to restart it and it wouldn't go. It turned over lights and radio were working. I got a boost and it stared after a few tries. The battery if fine. So the oil pressure like came back on while driving. Flashing while accelerating. And going off when not. I checked the oil again and added more. And made it back home. So I Changed out the oil pressure censor. And it continued to have the same problem. You can smell burning oil. And I checked right away under the car and noticed the flex pipe was smoking. I check out the fuel system by doing a few simple tests. Heard the whirl in the tank and it come on when in on potion. I am going to change out the fuel filter. Spark plugs are fine. I am going to check the presser in the engine. And a air test in the pugs to hear for leaks in the muffler and coolant and engine cap. Now What I would like to know what would the flex pipe cause the oil presser light to come on. Or what would cause the issue with the flex pipe. Or do you have any ideas of what might be going on. Thanks

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Tuesday, January 31st, 2012 AT 8:44 PM

49 Replies

Tiny
JEWLS4U1976
  • MEMBER

There are no codes. The water pump and starter and etc have been replaced recently. The EGR vale was cleaned. The hoses for the coolant are hot. Fan only works well on high I Have to fix that. There is black soot in the tail pipe.I have not tested to see if there are any leaks in the air intake. Could that be the problem. The throttle valve was sprayed. Coolant looks dirty may be oil in it not sure tho. Flush was done six months ago. Help please.

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Tuesday, January 31st, 2012 AT 9:36 PM
Tiny
JEWLS4U1976
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Oh and coolant cap was replaced.

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Tuesday, January 31st, 2012 AT 9:40 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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When the oil light is on or flashing you need to hook up a oil pressure gauge and see what the pressure actually is. Those cars are not known for oil pressure issues very seldom have any on those cars. So lets rule out the oil pressure being low causing the light to come on and flash. That is the main thing we need to look at first.I will help you out with the other issues but the oil light needs to addresed first.

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Tuesday, January 31st, 2012 AT 9:47 PM
Tiny
JEWLS4U1976
  • MEMBER

Ok, Ill go get the oil tester. All I have is the compression tester. And do it tomorrow morning. The light comes on at starting stays on longer than the others, it goes off then I drive for a while it will come on and then does the flicker when accelerating. I just hope I don't make it worse. With the burning oil smell and the steam or smoke from the flex pipe. I will let you know what I come up with. Thanks.

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Tuesday, January 31st, 2012 AT 10:40 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Alright keep me posted.

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Tuesday, January 31st, 2012 AT 10:46 PM
Tiny
JEWLS4U1976
  • MEMBER

Well no luck with getting a oil presser tester. All I could find are gauges no testers. Checked all part stores and pawn shops and kijiji.I priced out getting it cheeked at a few places and they want 150 to 250 to check it. So I think I will try and make one. I think All I need is a liquid filled gauge with 50 to 150 psi. And a fitting for the Oil censer area and tube. I will try that. I will tell you my results of the dry compression test. Cylinder 1 Came in at 135. 2 was at 150. 3 140 4 at 150. Plugs clean no oil Boots and wires Volt tested 1. At 3.9 2 at 3.4 3 at 3.1 4 at 2.6. I also did a air leak test with a air compressor in the cylinder. No air coming from the coolant, No air from the tail pipe No air coming from the oil cap area. But air was coming from the throttle body. The air intake manifold was removed. I checked the PCV valve and it was oily and there was traces of oil in the tube to the throttle body. I'm not sure if that's normal. The valve was changed last year. Now I did notice that the Exhaust manifold got extremely hot after only one minute of the engine running. And stated to smell burning oil. May that be an the issue. Well Ill see if I can get the presser reading. If you have any thoughts please comment.

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 2:40 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Your in trouble compression wise min compression on those engines is like 180psi so that engine cant be running too well. When you did the compression test was throttle wide open?Did you do ten compression strokes on each cylinder?

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 2:56 AM
Tiny
JEWLS4U1976
  • MEMBER

Yes throttle was open and I only did five compressions. They all spiked pretty well at the same rate.

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 3:10 AM
Tiny
JEWLS4U1976
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Actually I only did a five count. It may have only been a 4 to five stroke.

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 3:13 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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To help you out the threads you need to check the oil pressure is 14mm diameter and thread pitch is 1.5. At idle the oil pressure should be 13psi min at 2000 rpms it should be 29psi min oil pressure cold at 2500 rpms 80psi min.

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 3:24 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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You have to do 10 not four or 5.

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 3:26 AM
Tiny
JEWLS4U1976
  • MEMBER

Thanks for the info on ratings. Id order a pressure tester online but it would take weeks to get here. I was just going by what the book said to do for the compressing test. I will retry it after the oil pressure test. Maybe it will go up after a few more strokes or maybe one wont. Lol. Well tomorrows another day. Ive put so much into this car over the years its hard to give it up to buy someone else problem car. Lol.

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 3:53 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Keep me posted on what you find.

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 3:59 AM
Tiny
JEWLS4U1976
  • MEMBER

Well I think I have unfortunate results. I put the oil pressure tester I made n the censer connection. Started the car. Oil reading came in at 59 for idle. At 100 rpms. On the cold engine. After it warmed up. It went down to 10. At 70 rpms. At cold start at 2000 rpms the gauge went up to 70 Also not much of a change when up to 2500. Rpms I let the car warm up for 5 mins. Checking the rpms occasionally to see if they went up when accelerated. Only went up to 70. So after the car was warm I went up to 3000. Then I lost pressure. It would not go back up when rpms raised. Idle stayed at 10 on Gage.

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 8:09 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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So when warmed up at 2000 rpms what is the oil pressure psi reading?

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 8:37 PM
Tiny
JEWLS4U1976
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It was 70 psi. When warmed up. But when I increased the rpms to 3000 it dropped.

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Thats high sounds like the oil pressure regulator is failing. How was the compression?

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 8:50 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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As long as that gauge is right you bought and made.

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 8:51 PM
Tiny
JEWLS4U1976
  • MEMBER

I bought a Valley Instrument Quality Gauge good for oil gas water. I took it to Green line hose and fittings, Who put on fittings with Hydraulics onto a hose good for 200+ psi. So I think it works well. Now I restarted the car after the pressure dropped and it would not go up again I will retry now that the engine has settled.I don't know the compression? And not sure what you mean. I did that test yesterday but I havent repeated it.

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 9:03 PM
Tiny
JEWLS4U1976
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I just quickly stated it up. Gauge read 18, While revving it the gauge whit down in pressure

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Thursday, February 2nd, 2012 AT 9:09 PM

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