2002 Mitsubishi Lancer Electrical Problems

Tiny
ATLFAN65
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 MITSUBISHI LANCER
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
I am recently having problems with some electrical components of my car. My alternator went out 2 months ago and I replaced it with an 80 amp OEM (allegedly) alternator from RockAuto. Things were fine for a little bit, but I recently began observing the obvious signs of a low battery (headlights dimming when windows are being pit up/down, etc) and upon looking at my battery I discovered that my cable on the positive terminal that connects to the starter wwas VERY corroded. I bought a replacement cable but when I installed it, the start was constantly engaging. The only thing I could do was disconnect the battery to cease the starter engaging. I went to install the old cable again so I could get to work, however the metal tab that is bolted onto the battery terminal from the actual wire component of the cable broke off, so I had to get a copper connecting piece and crimped it to the wire so that I could connect everything. After hooking everything back up, I used a multimeter to check my battery with and without a load. Without read 12.4V and with a full load with the car running read 12.6V and was very slowly increasing. I was under the impression that I should have gotten a reading of 13.5-14V if the alternator was fully operating. However, the battery/brake light dash light combination has not come on to alert me to an alternator problem. Would the corroded positive cable cause this voltage reading or is the alternator bad already? I cannot take off the alternator and have it tested at a shop since I then could not drive to the shop, so is there a way to test the alternator with it still on the car with my multimeter? Also, what would cause the starter to always engage like it did when replacing the cable with a new one? Are these problems connected?
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Sunday, December 14th, 2014 AT 4:16 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
ATLFAN65
  • MEMBER
If it helps, I was unable to remove the old starter cable from the bundle of wires so I simply left the old cable in the bundle (both ends disconnected) and rand the new cable alongside the bundle. Not sure if that would cause the problem.
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Sunday, December 14th, 2014 AT 4:28 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
U CAN'T HOOK THE CABLE UP THAT WAY BECAUSE DIRECT POWER IS GOING TO THE STARTER. U WILL NEED TO FOLLOW THE WIRE FROM THE STARTER BACK TO A SELONOID OR SWITCH.U WILL NEED TO GET THE CORRECT WIRE FROM THE PARTS STORE. THEY CAN SHOW U IN THE PARTS MANUAL, THE PROPER ROUTING OF THIS WIRE THEN U CAN HOOK IT UP OUTSIDE THE HARNESS IF U WISH. YOUR ALTERNATOR SOUNDS FINE BUT THE PARTS STORE WILL CK. IT FOR FREE. THEY CAN PUT THE PROPER LOAD ON IT TO TEST IT PROPERLY.
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Sunday, December 14th, 2014 AT 5:28 PM
Tiny
ATLFAN65
  • MEMBER
A car parts store can only do a load test with the alternator off of my vehicle. How can I test the alternator using a mmultimeter with the alternator ON the car?
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-1
Monday, December 15th, 2014 AT 3:11 AM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
WHEN U PUSH THE WINDOW SWITCH THIS CAUSES A LOAD ON THE ALT. THAT IS WHY THE LIGHTS DIM. U DON'T HAVE A AMP. ATTACHMENT FOR YOUR MULTI METER U WILL HAVE TO READ IT BY VOLTS. HOOK THE METER ACROSS THE BATTERY. THEN U WILL NEED TO PUT A LOAD ON THE ALT. BY TURNING ON THINGS HEADLIGHTS ON HIGH BEAM, RADIO, A/C, REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER AND SO ON. THE U WILL NEED TO REV. THE ENGINE UP TO AROUND 1600 RPMS THEN READ THE METER. IT SOUNDS LIKE THE ALT. IS FINE.U JUST NEED TO GET THE PROPER STARTER CABLE.
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Monday, December 15th, 2014 AT 6:32 AM
Tiny
ATLFAN65
  • MEMBER
Do I run the new cable to the starter and also a new cable to the solenoid from the starter? Will the cable have one connection at the battery terminal and one at the terminal and branch off into 2 connections, one for the starter and one for the solenoid?
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Monday, December 15th, 2014 AT 8:23 AM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
IF THE STARTER WIRE IS THE BAD ONE. GO BUY IT ONLY LOOK AT THE PARTS MANUAL FOR PROPER ROUTING I, M NOT SURE.
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Monday, December 15th, 2014 AT 9:44 AM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
SORRY I WAS EATING MOST OF THE TIME IT'S 0NE CABLE FROM THE BATTERY TO THE SELONIOD AND ANOTHER TO THE STARTER. IT HAS TO HAVE A SELNIOID OR SWITCH TO SEND POWER TO THE STARTER WHEN U TURN THE KEY. U REALLY NEED TO CUT THE HARNESS OPEN AND FOLLOW THE CABLE TO WHERE IT GOES THEN RETAPE IT BACK TOGEATHER AFTER U INSTALL IT. IF U CAN GET A GOOD CRIMP ON THAT STARTER WIRE AND RESECURE IT U SHOULD BE GOOD.U WILL NEED TO PUT SOME GREASE ON IT TO KEEP IT FROM CORRODING AGAIN.
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Monday, December 15th, 2014 AT 10:53 AM

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