02 Ranger - No brake warning light in the cluster

Tiny
VAGRANTS
  • 2002 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200 MILES

I don't know much about auto. I searched the web and looked around junk yards (I could only find 1998. It wasn't much of a help) to troubleshoot this no brake warning light. I was unable to get an answer.

When I got this truck, fuse #9 and #13 (brake pedal position switch fuses) had 10A. The manual says #9 suppose to have 7.5A and #13 suppose to have 20A. I made the correction, no brake warning light.

The brake warning light bulb is OK since it shows sign of life at the engine startup. When I engage e-brake, no brake warning light. I checked the switch. I removed it and cleaned it with an alcohol patch (very dusty). I used AA battery to see if there is something wrong. It appears it's OK if I understood how it works correctly (the voltage on the washer looking thing was 0.02 or something like that compare to 1.45 at the metal that goes into an adapter. It suppose to ground, so it's correct, yes?).

I have not yet checked the master cylinder's sensor. I understand I should check this by pushing down on the float with a screwdriver and see if the brake light goes on (I read this on another forum). If I don't get a brake warning light, how do I check voltage of the sensor?

How do I check for voltage/resistance at the fuse box (this tells something about the wire, yes?)? I assume #9 and #13 are the one I'm interested in (1998 had a green/red wire going into #13). It appears I get no readings from these fuses with or without having a toothpick on the parking brake switch washer thing (I put (+) and (-) terminals of my meter on the fuse face that shows tiny metal contacts). If I'm doing this correctly, the wire is fried. Yes?

I looked for e-brake wiring diagram, I had no luck locating one.

ABS light is on. Will this make a difference?

I am not sure if this is related, but intermittent feature of the windshield wiper is not working properly. The wipers stop in the middle of windshield and resume on all of the intermittent speed. Hi and Low work perfectly. Is this caused by GEM or something to do with wiper motor or relay?

Thank you very much

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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 3:23 PM

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Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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Did you test the rest of the fuses?

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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 4:08 PM
Tiny
VAGRANTS
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I checked for blown fuses in the fuse panel and in the power distribution box. None were bad. I don't know how to check for bad relays.

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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 4:38 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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You may have a bad cluster. You will have to test the trigger wire coming off the cluster. It is a violet/white wire that when grounded, turns the light on.

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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
VAGRANTS
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The cluster is OK I think. I am in a process of swapping with 2000 Explorer cluster since the one came with had a problem with door ajar light. Both of these clusters won't turn the brake warning light other than at the start up.

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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 7:26 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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OK, do it your way then.

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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 7:38 PM
Tiny
VAGRANTS
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I'll check the violet/white wire. What kind of power source do I need? Can I use AA battery?

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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 8:12 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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It should already have a power source with the key on. Tap into the wire and just jumper it to ground and the light should come on if the cluster is good. Make sure the wire has good contact at the cluster plug.

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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 9:26 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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DIS HELP ANYBODY?

THE MEDIC

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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 10:17 PM
Tiny
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The brake warning light comes on at my will. The check engine light is now up.

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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 10:55 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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OK, if you can prompt the light by grounding that wire, then everything before that point is good. Here is the wiring diagram so you can see where it goes from there. I have circled the specific area. All of the switches trigger the light by grounding that circuit.

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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 11:01 PM
Tiny
VAGRANTS
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By the way, I only used the old cluster. I haven't checked the purple/white wire on the new cluster yet. I am going to do that after I finish replying.

Since the parking brake switch is not doing anything (this means there is a broken connection/bad wire assuming I tested it correctly, yes?), My question comes back to the master cylinder sensor. Is it OK for me to check the sensor by pushing down on the float with a screwdriver and see if the brake light goes on?

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Sunday, April 17th, 2011 AT 12:23 AM
Tiny
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Why don't you just unplug it and jump the 2 wires together at the plug.

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Sunday, April 17th, 2011 AT 12:27 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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One of them will be the feed from the cluster and the other should be a ground wire.

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Sunday, April 17th, 2011 AT 12:28 AM
Tiny
VAGRANTS
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Never mind about the new cluster (I just got it). It's not 100% compatible as I read it in one of the ranger forum. The door ajar light comes on only when the ignition is in the "ON" position and the theft is not blinking when I remove the key from the ignition. Other than that, it seems it works. The check engine light is on for this cluster, too, though.

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Sunday, April 17th, 2011 AT 12:51 AM
Tiny
VAGRANTS
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"Why don't you just unplug it and jump the 2 wires together at the plug."

I am not understanding you clearly. What 2 wires are you referring?

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Sunday, April 17th, 2011 AT 12:57 AM
Tiny
VAGRANTS
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By the way, when I mentioned "e-brake wiring diagram", I didn't mean electrical wiring diagram. I meant removing the entire e-brake assembly, so that I can have an access to the LG/RD wire. On 1998 Ranger, I was unable to access one bolt near the firewall easily. I didn't remove the bulkhead electrical connectors. If I remove the bulkhead electrical connectors, will I have access to that difficult to reach bolt?

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Sunday, April 17th, 2011 AT 2:49 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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Roger--Thought you wanted a wire diagram, trying to expedite your fix.

If you had requested an EXPLODED VIEW of the system, I would have tried my best, to get you that too.

The Medic

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Sunday, April 17th, 2011 AT 3:07 AM
Tiny
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CJ MEDEVAC, your diagram did help me though. I made an assumption that the color of LG/RD is reserved for the parking brake switch only. So, I didn't even look for a cluster wiring diagram you provided. I didn't understand why this LG/RD is going into the fuse box. On C3 terminal of the cluster, there is a LG/RD wire. I didn't understand why Wrenchtech told me to check VIO/WHT instead of LG/RD until I saw your diagram. I thank you for it. I wish the diagram was a bit more clearer though. It's difficult to read the texts.

I was suspicious of the LG/RD wire of the e-brake switch, that is why I asked for help with the master cylinder sensor since I don't even know the sensor is functioning well. I vaguely remember reading about brake fluid caution label. I think the fluid sounded like it contained some kind of acid. I don't want to put metal in acid solution, so I asked if it's OK to put a screwdriver in the cylinder, and how to check for faulty/non-functional sensor.

About 2 weeks ago or so, the check engine light came on. I went to Advance Auto Parts for getting a scan. The guy said that there is no problem. I don't know what he did, but the CEL went away. If a master cylinder's sensor is bad, would the CEL come on? Is this why it's OK not testing the master cylinder's sensor? The manual says one of the engine's emission control systems may be malfunctioning. It doesn't sound like the CEL be on for a faulty master cylinder sensor.

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Sunday, April 17th, 2011 AT 4:34 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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Glad he diagram was of some use!

By the way in '75--that is 1775, Paul Revere probably was insuring his transportation was-a-workin'. I'm sure the rental place was high, you know, that being Yankee-Land, where all that was going on.'Member what 1 or even 2 CONCSL on meant. Only 2 codes then! (Check Old North Church Steeple Light)

Anyway, I do better with Jeep CJs or older Ford Rigs. Before computers. Autozone fellers CAN erase the codes, although many tell me it's against their policy to erase a stored code. Some turn their back while I push the button, after I make a repair, and want the darn light off! Got my own scanner now. Seems like they are not just a fad. If you read up on me, I'm a Plumber, just do this for fun now, was all I had, months ago, when my foot was busted up severely!

I still may not can help---BUT WHAT WAS THE CODE THAT YOU DID HAVE? Wrench-feller still may can assist you with that. Read up on him, he's down there, where oranges come from. However from his "ever-so-impatient", Lets all chip in, and get the mission done demeanor, he constantly exhibits.I suspect he's REALLY a transplant from up there where Mr. Revere drove his 4x4, yelling out some crap about foreigners on their way. That was night tomorrow right?

The Ghillie Suit (now with monkey head, modified for Halloween--as nothing to stalk or snipe at right now) was just inserted to get the ole 'Drop Forged' Guy's Female Undergarments wadded up (usually he expresses how much he loves me!). Diagram was actually to attempt to help you.

"Wadded Up Guy" may not be the, "Lets have a Good Time", while we do this, and sorta has a short fuse, but He is more qualified than I on this one.

I really do not think the Master cylinder will turn on the Check Engine Light. But I do not know for sure, this new stuff is out there!

The Medic

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Sunday, April 17th, 2011 AT 1:33 PM
Tiny
VAGRANTS
  • MEMBER

I got the brake warning fixed finally. I checked the master cylinder float with a screw driver, and the light came on. I was afraid previous owner rewired so that brake warning never comes on.

I just noticed that seat belt warning light is not coming on at all. I checked the light bulb, but it's not burned out. I can't read the CJ's diagram. It's too fuzzy. Is there any way of getting this diagram with better resolution? If not, is this light wired to go to "Warning Systems"? If so, I guess I need to create another thread.

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Tuesday, April 26th, 2011 AT 3:54 PM

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