Have a 2001 windstar 145k.. in the last 6 months i had a problem trying to start the van in the morning.. 3 times in the 6 months... the engine would get stuck when i try to start it...I had to spin the engine backwards a few times by hand to get it to spin enough to start, it would sound like the battery was dead but its a new bat.. it would go WOW-WOW-WOW-WO... stuck,..... i could only spin engine backwards by hand.. SOOO today i get up to go to work and it did it to me again... it would spin then the engine would get stuck b4 it could start,, but this time when i did get it to start it sounded like it is in the video..
plz look at the video....
Sounds like you have a torque converter bolt that has come loose and backed out to where it is catching on the engine block. Pull the sheet metal inspection cover off, then rotate the engine by hand and look at all four bolts. A potential clue to this problem is if you find a lot of metal filings in the area.
January, 15, 2012 AT 5:04 AM
I will do that ASAP! I just had a trany put in 3 weeks ago.
January, 15, 2012 AT 7:38 PM
Ahh this van has nuts not bolts, and they are all tight, I put my ear to the oil pan the knock is inside the pan.
January, 15, 2012 AT 10:32 PM
Check engine light is on p0303 cylinder 3 misfire
could that be the problem?
January, 15, 2012 AT 10:47 PM
The reason you can feel a misfire is because when it occurs, the crankshaft rotational speed slows down for just an instant. That speed change is how the Engine Computer knows which cylinder is responsible.
To hear a noise means there's a mechanical problem. That doesn't have to cause a misfire, although the cause of the noise and the cause of the misfire could be related. A broken rocker arm would be a good example.
I think I'd search for the cause of the noise first. There's a chance fixing that will take care of the misfire. Fixing a misfire is not likely to fix a noise.
January, 16, 2012 AT 10:49 PM
Back right only has 95psi and front right has 170psi
also I got water in my oil, the oil was fine when I chk it yesterday
January, 17, 2012 AT 4:02 AM
A cylinder leakage test will identify the reason for the low compression. Burned intake valve, burned exhaust valve, worn piston rings, and leaking head gasket are common. A small leak in the head gasket won't cause a huge drop in compression.
There's two causes for water in the oil. Condensation of humidity will cause a white cream-colored goo under the oil cap. That comes from a lot of short-trip driving and doesn't really hurt anything. It burns off on longer trips. A leaking head gasket can leak coolant into the oil drain passages or into a cylinder. In a cylinder it will be burned and go out the tail pipe as white smoke. In the oil, the level will go up and the coolant level in the reservoir will go down. Antifreeze in the engine oil can have very bad results. It dissolves the first layer of metal on the soft engine bearings. That leads to excessive clearances and knocking.
The definitive test is to add a small bottle of dye to the coolant. Later you search with a black light. The dye will show up as a bright yellow stain. If it shows up in the oil, it had to get there through a leaking head gasket or cracked head.
A cooling system pressure test can also be helpful. The engine might have to be at a certain temperature for the leak to occur. Look for a rising oil level or a cylinder filling with coolant.
January, 17, 2012 AT 4:09 AM
DID YOU SEE HIS VIDEO?
IT REALLY SHOWS/ SOUNDS THE SEVERITY OF WHAT'S GOING ON
January, 17, 2012 AT 5:02 PM
Yup. That doesn't sound like rod knock. To me it sounds like something hitting the torque converter inspection cover.