2001 Ford F-150 Driver side front window motor

Tiny
MARTY6969
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 97,000 MILES
Thanks again for your previous response yesterday regarding replacing my front D/S window motor.

At this point I'm still a bit puzzled & I want to be positive that it is indeed the window motor before I replace it. In addition let me say that there is NO sound at all coming from the motor when I depress the window switch (though I do hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse relay) & that should be all I need to know to verify a bad motor. However, I need to better understand what the following diagnostic testing I performed means for my own clarity.

So after removing the door panel & disconnecting the 2 wire window motor plug I checked the voltage using my digital meter. I got 11.25 volts while depressing the D/S window switch. After reconnecting that same plug & now checking voltage at the motor itself by removing the little white clip that covers the two terminals on the motor, I got 8.40 volts while depressing the window switch. That tells me that there is a short & or increased resistance internally that is responsible for the voltage drop at the motor itself. Is that correct?

The last thing that's puzzling me is when a window motor becomes inoperable shouldn't I also receive a "1" (open circuit) when I read resistance across the two motor wires. Rather I'm getting a closed/uninterrupted reading that is indicating normal minimal motor resistance. Your expertise and or assurance that I indeed have a bad motor (if that's the case) would be appreciated. Thank You. Marty
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Saturday, May 30th, 2015 AT 6:19 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
WELL,

IF YOU GOTTER ALL ACCESSIBLE

DIRECT 12 VOLTS OFF OF THE BATTERY USING A JUMPER TO THE MOTOR WOULD VERIFY MOTOR OPERATION

DON'T MATTER WHICH CONNECTION YOU USE, AS SWAPPING "POSITIVE" WITH "GROUND" IN THE CONNECTOR WILL REVERSE THE MOTOR (UP OR DOWN)

IF YOU ARE REALLY MECHANICAL

YOU MIGHT ATTEMPT JUST REMOVING THE GEAR (TRANSMISSION COVER) ON THE ASSEMBLY AND JUST MOVING/ TURNING THE WORM SHAFT TO FREE THIS PUPPY UP!

SOMETIMES TAKING ONE APART (AND THE BRUSHES ARE STILL GOOD) AND SHINING UP THE BRUSH SURFACE ON THE ARMATURE, LUBRICATING BUSHINGS WITH GREASE, AND IF IT HAS A "PRELOAD" SCREW ON THE END OF THE ARMATURE (LIKE OLDER ONES), INSURE IT AIN'T TOO TIGHT. THE HARDEST PART OF DOING THIS IS GETTING THE BRUSHES/ SPRINGS BACK IN CORRECTLY.

OTHER WISE, I MIGHT CAN HELP BY SAVING YOU $10-$40?

HERE'S WHAT I'VE FOUND, VERIFY IT'S THE CORRECT ONE

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/aci-window-lift-motor-83120/19160087-P?searchTerm=window+lift+motor

AT THE PRESENT, WE CAN SAVE $10, IF YOU ADD MORE STUFF TO GET YOU OVER $70 (AT LEAST BY A PENNY) WE CAN KNOCK OFF $25, IF YOU ADD MORE PARTS WE MIGHT NEED, EVEN A MOTOR FOR THE OTHER SIDE, AND GET THIS TO OVER $110 (EVEN BY A PENNY) YOU CAN SAVE $40! (THIS IS PURCHASE ONLINE, PICK UP AT THE STORE IN 30 MINUTES)

THAT'S LIKE SAVING 1/3 OF FULL PRICE, READ AND SORTA DIGEST THE WAY I MAKE THE PROMO CODES WORK TO MY ADVANTAGE. AMAZINGLY, IT'S STILL WORKING! A124 IS THE BEST-US PROMO CODE I HAVE FOUND! SEE THIS LINK FOR HOW TO MAKE IT WORK FOR YOU TOO, I'VE EVEN GOT SOME SCREENSHOTS AT THE BOTTOM.

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

RETURN TO THIS THREAD WITH A BIG OLE GRIN!

THE MEDIC

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Saturday, May 30th, 2015 AT 7:30 AM
Tiny
MARTY6969
  • MEMBER
Thanks for your reply, however I didn't understand a word of what U said and most importantly you didn't answer either of my 2 questions regarding the voltage drop at the motor verses at the connector and whether or not a bad window motor can still show a "closed circuit" when using a ohm meter. Could you please address these 2 questions and or pass it along 2 a different tech to answer. Thank you in advance for your forth coming reply.
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Saturday, May 30th, 2015 AT 7:51 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
"BAD" CAN BE EXPRESSED BOTH ELECTRICALLY AND ALSO MECHANICALLY

EITHER WAY

THE PUPPY WON'T DO WHAT IT WAS MEANT TO DO

IF I WERE TO JAM A NAIL INTO THE TRANNY OF THE ASSEMBLY, ELECTRICALLY IT WOULD STILL TEST GOOD, MECHANICALLY IT WOULD NOT MOVE, SO IN MOST PEOPLE'S EYES, IT IS BAD!

I REMOVE THE NAIL (OR BUST IT LOOSE FROM SOME SORTA BIND) IT WORKS OR IS NOW CONSIDERED GOOD!

I TEST WINDOW MOTORS WITH THE BATTERY TO WEED OUT THE MOTOR BEING THE FAULT IN THE EQUATION. IF THINGS ARE GOING SLOW, IT'S GETTING HARD TO DIAGNOSE THE "REAL PROBLEM", PRIOR TO BATTERY JUICE REACHING THE MOTOR (LIKE A BAD SWITCH, FAULTY WIRES, ETC)

AS FAR AS SWITCHES AND SUCH BEING TESTED, IF YOU ARE JUST THAT LOST, SNATCH OFF THE OTHER PANEL, DISCONNECT "THAT MOTOR" AND THEN "JUMPER WIRE" FROM THE CONNECTOR IN QUESTION, TO THE OTHER MOTOR YOU KNOW THAT IT WORKS FOR SURE

WHAT BETTER TEST FOR THE SYSTEM OTHER THAN A TEMPORARY DIRECT CONNECTION? AS SOME FOLKS JUST CANNOT READ/ UNDERSTAND/ OR MAY BE USING A FAULTY METER.

I CAN SIMPLY ROLL UP OR DOWN THE DARN WINDOW, BY SWAPPING THE POLARITY FROM THE BATTERY DIRECTLY TO THE MOTOR'. VIA JUMPER WIRES (LONG WIRES WITH ALLIGATOR CLIPS ON THE ENDS) THIS, AT LEAST, WILL KEEP THE RAIN OUT OF THEIR RIG TILL IT CAN BE CORRECTLY REPAIRED

AS FAR AS NOT UNDERSTANDING MY LAST TRANSMISSION, MAYBE A FRIEND COULD TRANSLATE IT FOR YOU?

I NEVER HAVE THESE OR THEM OTHER KINDA SORTA PESKY PROBLEMS WITH MY TWO VEHICLES

SEE PIC BELOW

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, May 30th, 2015 AT 8:30 AM

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