How do you remove the rear control arm

Tiny
DEMONSDC
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD ESCAPE
  • 180,000 MILES
I need to replace the wheel bearing on a rear wheel. It is a 2 wheel drive. I can manage to get the ball joints off. But I can't get the bushing end of the control arm out. How do you do this

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Monday, March 19th, 2012 AT 5:58 PM

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Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Hello there,

Here is a video that will help you remove the ball joints and lower arm. It's on a different car but the procedure is the same. There is a diagrams below to help you see was well.

https://youtu.be/g_hj1hRSNgg

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken

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Friday, September 2nd, 2016 AT 4:56 PM
Tiny
JLREINE
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD ESCAPE
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 126,000 MILES
I just replaced both sides, lower control arms because my ball joints were going bad. The clunk noise I was hearing before I replaced them is gone, however I'm now experiencing a popping sound when accelerating, and braking. I really don't want to drive it because of potential dangers. So I'm really desperate for help at this point so I can feel better about it and get back out on the road. I'm guessing perhaps there's play within the bolts? Or somethings too tight or loose. I'm very uncertain. If you could help I'd very much appreciate it thank you.
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Friday, November 9th, 2018 AT 1:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
The first thing to consider is the car has to be sitting on the tires and at normal ride height when you tighten the bushing bolts. If the car is supported on jack stands with the suspension hanging down, tightening the bolts that way clamps them in that position, then, when the car is set on the ground, the bushings will be in a permanent twist. That will lead to early bushing failure from being over-stressed. All you have to do at that point is crawl underneath, loosen, then retighten the bolts. Be sure those bolts are tightened to specs. A click-type torque wrench should be used although I'll admit, most mechanics go by feel.

The car needs to be aligned when this type of suspension part is replaced. The people who do that are experts at finding the sources of noises and vibrations. The most important area, as far as safely driving it to the alignment shop, are the ball joint studs. Look at the dust boots to be sure they're fully-collapsed, which means the studs are all the way into the spindle. It's not unheard of to have a stud not fully-seated. Also, if either stud was loose on the old ball joint, (meaning where it went into the hole on the bottom of the spindle), that will make the hole oblong. The spindle has to be replaced for that, otherwise the new stud will wobble back and forth and eventually snap off.

If all else fails, there is a tool you might be able to borrow or rent from an auto parts store that borrows them called the "Chassis Ear". It is a set of six microphones, a switch box, and headphones. You clip the microphones to suspect points, then drive around while listening with the headphones. You can move the microphones around to zero in on the source of the noise. Be aware that many mechanics have never seen or even heard of this tool. Suspension and alignment mechanics use it to find rattles, squeaks, and other noises.
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Friday, November 9th, 2018 AT 1:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE126
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
I have a 2002 Ford Escape. Its a very good car. But today my lower control arm separated from the subframe. Mind you (my mechanic informed me that my cars frame was going "soft" whatever that means) and was advised to be careful when going through potholes. But me being an idiot I went over a speed bump at 10 mph and my lower control arm broke. Everything else appears to be fine but i'm no mechanic.

I was wondering how hard is it to replace a lower control arm? Is it something I could do in my garage? With simple tools?

Thanks
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Friday, November 9th, 2018 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
See pics for disassy, when reassembling tighten control arm to subframe at ride height. Also check areas pointed to for rust as that may be your problem and you will need a subframe not a control arm.
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Friday, November 9th, 2018 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)

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