It over heated and the cause was the radiator to crack

Tiny
SHACKELCHEVY91
  • 2001 CHRYSLER 300
  • 139,000 MILES

So I replaced the radiator, upper and lower hoses, thermostat, transmission oil cooler and the lower and upper intake manifold gaskets. I put it all back. Ive checked sensor connections and vacuum connections. When you take the upper electrical connection on the throttle off and start it it doesn't redline but tries to but it stays running but sounds like it revs then floods and tries to die but then revs again and keeps doing that

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 5:52 PM

17 Replies

Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER

Scan it for codes. It sounds like you're disconnecting the idle control valve.

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 6:32 PM
Tiny
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So what is your question?You asked your question in the subject box and it was cut off and I cant read all of it.

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 6:33 PM
Tiny
SHACKELCHEVY91
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My question is what could be cousing the engine when started to none stop rev like its doing. Im a at home mechanic and I dont have a scanner to get codes and all of that

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 6:40 PM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
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Your message stated:
when you take the upper electrical connection on the throttle off and start it it doesnt redline but tries to

If this is what I'm thinking it is, it's either the throttle position sensor or the idle control valve. Disconnecting either one could cause the problem you're experiencing.

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
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Tiny
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Thats a great looking inexpensive scanner that anyone with a 1996 or newer car should have if there going to fix there own car or want to know what the codes are when the check engine light comes on. If its reving up all the time I would also look for a vacuum leak?Have you done that yet?Also what exaclty did you replace that was cut off because you put all that in the subject box.

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
SHACKELCHEVY91
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I diconnected itto see if it will run and it does but it revs and then start to stall and then revs again and it keeps doin that. When you plug it back in and start it it redlines again and wont stop. What does that mean and also I dont know what its from or whats causing it ill start it and then do acouple of things and try to start it again and the battery is dead and I have to charge it back up again

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 7:17 PM
Tiny
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Sounds like you have a couple issues like its not charging do you have a multimeter?If so start it up and see what the voltage is at the battery cables?Also you replaced the intake manifold gaskets have you checked for a vaccum leak?What else do you replace?

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 7:28 PM
Tiny
SHACKELCHEVY91
  • MEMBER

Ok heres what all happened my friend was driving the car she ran out of oil and the car shut down so they filled it with oil and she drove to school when she got to school the car overheated. We got it home and I looked at it and found out the radiator cracked, so I replace the radiator the transmission oil cooler upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat, oil change and filled the cooling system back up I went to go start it to bleed the cooling system for air and she instantly redlined. I went back through checked my connections and found a vacume line disconnected so I plugged it in and tried to start it and it still instantly redlined. When you start it up you have to instantly shut it off cause it redlines and I dont want to blow the motor, I cant get it to idle down what so ever so theres no way to plug the obdII in to get a reading and I dont even have a code reader. I took the air box and everything back off so I can get to the throttle which is on the back of the motor to try and see what the problem is

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 7:39 PM
Tiny
SHACKELCHEVY91
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Oh like I said I replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets to. And when I took the intake manifold off and stood it up on end oil came out of it but I dont think thats whats wrong here I just need to get it to stop redlining, its like my foots to the floor when I start it and stays there

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
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You still can read codes without the engine running you can get a code reader really cheap. From the symptoms you describe there is really only a few things to cause that your throttle body plate stuck wide open.A vacuum leak somewhere or your idle air solenoid is stuck wide open.

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 7:52 PM
Tiny
SHACKELCHEVY91
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Where should I look for the vacume leak and where is the solinoid at?

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 7:53 PM
Tiny
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Did you use a straight edge on the intake manifold to make sure it was warped?

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 7:54 PM
Tiny
SHACKELCHEVY91
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Yeah thats the first thing I do whenever I take a intake off but if it where leaking wouldnt it choke itself out in steady of redlining?

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 7:56 PM
Tiny
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To answer your question your question it all depends on the size of the leak and where the leak is. The idle air control valve is nothing more then a computer controled vacuum leak to adjust the idle. The throttle body is a air valve that lets more or less air in the engine. The computer then adds more fuel or less based on the sensor readings if the engine needs more fuel or less fuel. So yes a vacuum leak or stuck open throttle body plate will cause the engine to shoot way up.

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 8:17 PM
Tiny
SHACKELCHEVY91
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Yeah I get that part I just cant figure out what could possibly be wrong. Another thing I for got to mention was when you turn the key on but dont start it you can watch the throttle open up all the way with out starting it I checked the gas pedal to see if the cable was lose but no it wasnt I dunno this is very aggravating

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 8:46 PM
Tiny
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Does the throttle stay open after it starts?If so theres your problem that was a important fact to leave out.

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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011 AT 9:39 PM

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