Most of the time when key is turned battery turns on along with all the warning lights but engine won't start. It will start after a few attempts after I hold the key all the way down for a while.
ETS(Electronic Throttle System)light has come up at least 2 times while I was driving in the past 2 years. Each time the engine just stalled or stopped. I had to turn it off and start the engine again. Don't know if this is related to the ignition problem.
In 2010 I've had this major work done:
1. Replace Serpentine and Timing Belt
2. Replace filters - Fuel Filter, Air fFilter, Pollen Filter.
3. Replace Engine Spark Plugs
4. Flush Tranny Fluid
5. Flush Brake Fluid
Go to Autozone its a free service and have the computer scanned for code/s-start here
February, 2, 2012 AT 5:07 AM
When it doesnt start, does the engine cran over? Also are there any other messages besides the ETS light like an immobolizer messages? Let us know please.
February, 2, 2012 AT 3:31 PM
When it doesnt start, the engine does not crank over. All the warning messages including ETS show up on the panel.
February, 3, 2012 AT 3:39 AM
OK your fault would most likely be an issue with the immobolizer. Have the immobolizer scanned. If you have fault codes IMM-233, IMM-234, or IMM-321 may be stored in the control module due to incorrect terminal contact. The most common failure is that a female terminal is too wide and gives poor contact or oxidation. You would need to replace the terminals in the immobolizer module connector and the antenna ring ring connector. If you are up to the challene to solder some new wires then let me know and provide a fax number by provate message and I will fax you the information. If you want to go to a repair shop then have them look up tech journal 4523 (TJ4523), that will have the part numbers and what termainals need to be replaced. The terminals would need to be ordered from the dealership. As for the ETS light, you should have taken it in as soon as it came on. You had a 10 year 200k mile warranty on throttle module wish has already expired. Look at the fuse box in the engine compartment and look at the nut securing the power supply from the battery. If you have corrosion then replace the cable. The cable is the +30 cable and you can get that from Volvo and replace the battery cable. If you still have issues try cleaning the throttle plate. Emove throttle to clean inside as well. If you still have an issue you will need a new throttle and that runs around a thousand bucks or more. Good luck to you and let us know what happens.
February, 4, 2012 AT 4:16 PM
JIS thank you so much for your detail instruction.
But I just had it checked up by the dealer and they said to replace ignition cylinder and switch, $389 parts + $389 labour + taxes. Don't know if they scanned it because at the dealer we wait at the fancy showroom lounge. Is that the right answer? Are they immobilizer related? I m not mechanically inclined at all. Sorry.
Dealer will order parts on Monday Feb 6. Should I bring the car across the border to Autozone Detroit to have it scanned?
Have a fun Super bowl weekend!
February, 5, 2012 AT 2:47 AM
If you mean the steering column lock which has the tumbler inside, that only gets replaced if you can not turn the key? The ignition switch could be a problem if it is not supplying any power at all? I would ask if they did scan the immobolizer for any codes? Does not hurt to ask? Well keep us posted either way and you have a fun super bowl weekend as well. Have the patties and dogs marinating already along with the hot wings LOL!
February, 7, 2012 AT 2:55 PM
Hi Guys, it was a good Super Bowl Sunday.
My BF scanned my car and here are the codes: obd codes p1238, p0172, p0128. I read that p1238 converts to Volvo code ECM-6806 Turbocharger
That makes sense b/c dealer had told me about the turbo problem when the "Check Engine"-Malfunction indicator lamp warning light came up 2 years ago but I didn't do anything because I thought turbo was for racing (or show off) only.
The bottom line: the codes did not find anything re ignition problem and I don't know where to look for the terminals.
Just called the dealer and found out that they did not do the scan. They found it difficult to turn key and drew the conclusion.
I did call up another dealer and they suggested that I have the car scanned but they are 2 hr drive away.
What should I do?
February, 8, 2012 AT 3:28 AM
Good to hear you had a good Super Bowl Sunday, I lost a bet yesterday : ( but it was still good. Well base on your responce it looks like the dealership is fixing another problem not related to your original complaint? If they are replacing the steering column lock for a binding key why are they replacing the ignition switch? I would ask why they are replacing the ignition switch? You may not even need it? As far as scanning the immobolizer system for codes, you need a more advance scanner to scan the immobolizer module and central electronic module for any faults. The scanner your BF has most likely only does engine management only. Also since the steering column lock is been replaced the ignition switch needs to be removed to transfer it over to the new part. Ask the dealer if they could remove it and turn the switch on with a screw driver. That will power up the car to be able to scan it for fault codes. Or you can just wait since the steering column lock should be there tomorrow already? As for your fault codes, PO128 check the ECT sensor for leaks or corrosion. If that is ok replacing the thermostat should take care of that fault. For the other 2 codes the problem may most likely be related to one another. Have the intake system smoked for leaks. Also have the turbo control valve hoses inspected for damage. The one that goes under the turbo splits and is very hard to see. Also inspect the charge air pipe at the turbo. The rubber hose part also splits and will cause a turbo and fuel trim issues. Also check the charge air pipe at the turbo cooler to see if it popped out or split as well. Inspect the fresh air hose at the throttle, they pop out and cause all sorts of problems from ETS light issues, hard start where you crank over but wont start, to loss of power and stalling. Also inspect the turbo control valve and check to see if it is stuck open or stuck closed. Those go out a lot. Well good luck to you and all I can say is just wait now instead of driving the 2 hours. The steering column lock binding is an issue that needs to be taken care of sooner or later so might as well just have it done now since the part is on order. Also there is no refund on special order parts since the column lock was keyed for your vehicle and will only go on your vehicle. So hang in there and keep us posted please.
February, 8, 2012 AT 5:54 PM
You are amazing! So The ETS light could be the signal of the fresh air hose at the throttle popping out that could be the cause of all my problems: intermittent no start, turbo issue, and stalling? If so, it is minor repair instead of replacing ignition cylinder and switch as per dealer. I can always turn the key all the way down when it does not start (what you referred to as "crank over but wont start"?). Also I may not need to replace turbo valve?
I won the super bowl bet. You can fix my car instead of paying the loss bet: )
Parts are in now. Will bring the car to dealer tomorrow. Should I ask them to check and fix all the stuff you mentioned from the odb codes?
February, 9, 2012 AT 4:41 AM
The stuff I mentioned was things to look at for possible issues. Like I also mentioned on the previouse post the +30 cable and battery cable could have high resistance causing a voltage drop. Even a dirty throttle plate can cause issues and even fuel trim problems as well as a dirty PCV sytem. If you were in the L.A. Area I would try and help you out. If you go to the dealer they are going to want to check it out first and they should do most of those basic checks but sometimes they dont so ask questions and if you decide to have them check it out ask them if they did all the checks I mentioned. If they checked the PCV system what was measured did they check the one vacuum hose at the bottom of the turbo no one can really see, etc. Those are issues I have encountered with this vehicles and I have replaced the throttles also but you do that once you have verified everything else is ok. If you want, have the dealer give you the codes post them on here so we can go over them. If they give you a potentiometer fault code for the ETS light then brace yourself for the worse. For the no start if you get the codes I gave you then the terminal wire fix should do the trick. So let us know what happens so we can go over each thing one at a time.