Crank no start issue

Tiny
FRANK J TRIVIGNO
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 SAAB 9-3 SPORTCOMBI
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
2000 Viggen. Let’s start with it has been sitting for a couple years. I removed all the old gas. Adding some non-ethanol had for our attempts at starting. I bought and installed a new battery. The engine cranks but I had no spark. I buy the coil cassette and installed. We try to start and only cranks. I loosen intake boot a spray some starting fluid. We crank it over and it starts for a moment but my son dumps the clutch and it stalls. We try again and again but no joy. We test the cassette and no spark again. I held the valve on the fuel rail to see if the pump is pumping. And fuel sprays out at high pressure so pumps good. Back to why won’t it spark. I’m going to try the lockout procedures again and order the cam/crank sensor. What else am I missing? I saw one guy on YouTube who adding some sort of extra ground but his video ends before he terminated the ground. And so here I am asking for some deeper insight.
Saturday, April 24th, 2021 AT 5:54 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,114 POSTS
Hi,

It could be the crankshaft position sensor. If you have a live data scanner, see if there is an RPM signal when cranking. If there isn't, it's likely the crank sensor. If there is an RPM signal, it is likely related to the ignition discharge module.

Do me a favor. I attached some general testing for the module. Take a look through them and let me know what you find. See attachments below. Make sure the connections are good to the module and there is no corrosion or damaged pins.

Also, see if there are any diagnostic trouble codes that have been set.

If you look at pic 4, it shows the ground for the discharge module. Note that all plugs share that common ground. Make sure that ground is good and there is continuity to ground. The remaining pics are of the entire powertrain control system (schematics). I had to cut them in half to make them readable, but I did overlap them so you can follow from one to the next.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 8:45 PM
Tiny
FRANK J TRIVIGNO
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thanks for the response. I will try the sensor and check the tachometer If that doesn't work I'll hit this post back and follow up with you. I did check the harness and it appeared to have power on 4 pins but only one was a bright signal on my little tester.
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Saturday, May 8th, 2021 AT 3:00 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,114 POSTS
Hi,

Sounds like a plan. If possible, let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe
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Saturday, May 8th, 2021 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
FRANK J TRIVIGNO
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Joe,

The tach did not move when turning it over. So there’s the answer. Where the heck is the sensor located? It says something about a blue connector (when trying to purchase online)but I couldn’t see one or find the sensor. So I’m hesitant to purchase until I know I’m getting the correct one.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 5:52 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,114 POSTS
Hi,

It could be in a couple of different places based on whether you have a trionic 5 or Trionic 7 design. If you know which it is, let me know, or let me know what the 8th digit of the VIN is so I can look up which one you have.

Joe
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 8:01 PM
Tiny
FRANK J TRIVIGNO
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
From left to right the 8th “number is G; from right to left “number “ is Y.
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Saturday, May 15th, 2021 AT 8:01 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,114 POSTS
Okay, you have a high output 2.3L. That in combo with the model year indicates it should be the Trionic 7. I attached a pic below showing what the vin shows based on digit location. I thought you may find it interesting.

As far as the crank sensor, it is fitted to the wall of the engine crankcase. If you look at the pics below (starting with the second one), they provide the directions and the pics for removal and replacement.

Just FYI. Don't do this on a hot engine. There are too many things to get burned on. Also, I would recommend spraying around where the sensor goes into the block with a penetrating oil. Also, if you see any corrosion where the sensor will be removed from, try your best to clean it. Wiggle and turn the sensor gently when removing. You don't want it to break in the engine block.

Make sure to clean the area where the new sensor will be installed and lubricate both the new sensor's o-ring with engine oil as well as where it will be installed. One last thing, since you are spraying penetrating oil on the engine block, you should try to clean off the engine where it wet. Otherwise, it will smoke for a while until it burns off.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions or need help.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Saturday, May 15th, 2021 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
FRANK J TRIVIGNO
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
So, I finally got the sensor in! Started right up. I’ve been zipping around town for a couple of days. Last night it started chugging when I’m on the gas relatively hard. I don’t think it’s the clutch, because when I downshift it will grab really hard and it still pulls hard on the gas. The engine light is on, and data center says time for service? Suggestions once again? Oh, one more question, where can I find another heat shield for the crank sensor?
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Saturday, October 2nd, 2021 AT 7:02 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,114 POSTS
Hi,

I'm glad to hear you got it going. Good job.

I would be happy to help answer any questions you have. However, I need you to start a new thread. I hope you understand. We try to keep the threads specific to one topic to help others. Here is the link to start a new thread. Just copy and paste your question. I'll keep my eyes open for it.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Again, I hope you understand.

When you repost, let us know if the clutch is slipping. The lower the gear, the less likely it will slip. The higher the gear, the more likely. Also, let us know if there are any new diagnostic trouble codes.

Take care of yourself,

Joe
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Saturday, October 2nd, 2021 AT 6:40 PM

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