Thermostat location and replacement?

Tiny
MELO74
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
How many thermostats does it have?
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Sunday, October 4th, 2015 AT 8:45 AM

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Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,606 POSTS
This car has two thermostats here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job with a diagrams below that shows the locations

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers
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Sunday, October 4th, 2015 AT 12:01 PM
Tiny
SHOLLON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 NISSAN ALTIMA
Six cylinder front wheel drive automatic 59,000 miles.

Hi- I need to replace the thermostat on my car. Where is this located?
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,202 POSTS
Hello,

There are two different locations for the thermostat and there are two thermostats on the 4 cylinder engine here is a guide to show you what you are in for when doing the job.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

Here are some diagram to show you where the locations are (below)

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WILLIE MATTHEWS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
The car uses two thermostats but the top thermostat is missing. Why would the top thermostat be missing?
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 107,922 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2carpros. Com

I can't be sure why it was removed, but often times people are having overheating problems, so they remove thermostats. Its purpose is to allow coolant to warm faster for heating reasons on cold starts. It should be replaced. I don't know if you want them, but here are the directions.

REMOVAL

CAUTION: Perform when the engine cold.

1. Drain the engine coolant.
2. Remove the upper radiator hose, heater pipe, electric throttle control actuator inlet hose, and heater hose.
3. Remove the engine coolant outlet.
4. Remove the water control valve.

Let me know if you have other questions.

INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
Install the engine coolant temperature sensor.
Use Genuine RTV Silicone Sealant or equivalent.
Install the water control valve with the whole circumference of the flange part fitting securely inside the rubber ring.
Install the water control valve with the up-mark facing up and the frame center part facing upwards. The position deviation may be within the range of +10°.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BENBONES
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
Installed two new thermostats and found the bottom hose was cold even after idling for over five minutes. Is it possible I installed the lower one backwards? I noticed the top would only work one way so I think it is correct. Please advise. B.R.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 107,922 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros. Com.

The thermostat can be installed incorrectly. There is a jiggle valve on the thermostat. It must be at the top when installed. If that is not properly positioned, you are going to have a hard time getting fluid through the system.

Take a look at the directions I attached. They are specific to your vehicle. The attached pictures correlate with these directions. Take a look at the last picture which shows how the jiggle valve must be positioned.

THERMOSTAT AND THERMOSTAT HOUSING

Removal and Installation

WARNING: Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot. Serious burns could occur from high pressure coolant escaping from the radiator.

REMOVAL

CAUTION: Perform when the engine is cold.

1. Drain engine coolant. Refer to "Changing Engine Coolant."
2. Remove radiator lower hose from the engine coolant inlet side.
3. Remove engine coolant inlet and thermostat.

INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
Install the engine coolant temperature sensor. Use Genuine RTV Silicone Sealant or equivalent. Refer to "RECOMMENDED CHEMICAL PRODUCTS AND SEALANTS".

Install the thermostat with the whole circumference of the flange part fitting securely inside the rubber ring.
Install the thermostat with the jiggle valve facing upwards. The position deviation may be within the range of 10°.
If necessary, to install the heater pipe, first apply a mild detergent to the O-ring and then quickly insert the pipe into the housing.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PAMELA HARRIS2
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 2003 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • VR6
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 174,000 MILES
How many thermostats does the car listed above (3.5 liter) have?
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi Pamela Harris,

This engine only has one thermostat. I attached the process for removing, testing, and installing it.

Please let me know if you have more questions. Thanks
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PAMELA HARRIS2
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thanks.

Pamela Harris
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,468 POSTS
KASEKENNY1 is one of our best! Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PAMELA HARRIS2
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Hi Ken, Thank you, I had the thermastat replaced, I noticed that even when the car is cold the temperature gauge goes to the middle really fast even when cold is that normal?
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,468 POSTS
Yes this is normal.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
This sounds normal. As long as the temperature gauge does not go past the "normal" range then the quicker it gets there, the better that is. We want the engine running at what is called, operating temperature. This is where it is most efficient so again, as long as it is not going to the hot range, this is okay.

Please let us know if you have more questions. Thanks
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,544 POSTS
  • 2003 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 162,140 MILES
When I start my car in the morning to let it warm up, it never warms up while sitting idle. No matter how long I let it warm up it never does until i've been driving for about 15 minutes. Could this be a problem with the thermostat?
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Yes, most likely the thermostat is stuck open or missing. Does the gauge show snything after 5 minutes if engine running?
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AMYONEAL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
When it's sittin still the gauge does not move, but after driving for about 10 minutes it starts to move
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
This might be electrical instead of temperature problem. It could be the gague that is causing the problem.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SHAYOWENS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
My switch on the panel is stuck it does not go from cool to heat.
I had noticed it was sticking about half way but then I had to force it to the warm side and then he wouldnt go back to the cool side.
But when I turn the fan on it blows out cool air even though the thermostat is on the warm side.
Not sure if because it is stuck which is causing me not to have heat or if the heating element is bad.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TCMONTE733
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I am not technical / a mechanic, but here is a simple check, then the FIX is pretty easy and I have a SHORTCUT so you can get heat NOW for ZERO COST (less than 1 minute) below.
CHECK- the cable that is attached to temp control knob open / closes a temperature "gear" just above the accelerator. Look to make sure this black sheathed steel cable is attached to via a metal clamp and most importantly snapped onto the plastic "gear" to move forward back the round gear. Reattach or perform fix below.
I JUST replaced mine last week - below is what to do for the REAL FIX and/or a SHORTCUT to get heat NOW! The "knob" in the control panel attaches to a small steel cable in the back and the plastic clip in the back is most likely broken. (Notorious design flaw).
You can easily replace the whole blower/temp control panel in about 20 -60 min, 10-15 screws, and < $100 for a used control panel from a junkyard. You will need to remove center area of dash, find diagram on web, (or just pull platic piece down/off below a/c control - NO screws- PROMISE. (The plastic piece just above the "secret compartment door" in front of gear shift area). Then undo single screw exposed on psgr side (by glove box) holding the center dash. The big center area then pulls straight out - NO more screws, Yep, just the one! Once this is, off take out radio 6-8 screws + electric clips+antenna, then the A/C heat control module 4 screws + electric clips. (It will still be connected to steel cable running down to temperature control "gear" just above accelerator. Look at the back of your middle "knob", chances are when you turn knob the cable doesn't move b/c not connected any longer. It is broke, get a new used module. Simply put in by reverse order. The steel cable is held by a metal click clamp and snapped on the "gear" below dash above accelerator. Be sure to Attach new one with knob and "gear" set for FULL heat / cold or you will get luke warm when knob is supposed to be on full heat.
** Make sure when getting new, that you get the steel cable detached from down by the accelerator area rather than trying to use your old cable and somehow clamp into the new plastic control module**
***SHORTCUT to heat NOW *** NO COST FIX! Less than 1 Minute-
You can bypass the knob and simply push the cable / gear yourself. You will need to be parked and get on floor just above the accelerator. There is a black sheathed steel cable held by a metal clamp and then snaps onto a plastic "gear". This cable pushes / pulls the gear to open close the amount of heat! Simply push the gear forward / back. This is what the CONNECTED cable is supposed to do for you. Can't change while driving, but if you OPEN / CLOSE the control then you can regulate amont of heat with the amount of blower / windows etc. You will have full heat / cold!
**Be sure to use masking tape to mark the 4-5 electical wire clips you will disengage for reverse order of reassembly when removing radio and a/c controller**
good luck. Let me know if you still have questions. I can add more details if you need / contact me.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)

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