I NEED HELP!!! IS IT MY LIFTERS? WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE?
2000 Lexus ES 300
October, 3, 2011 AT 11:17 PM
I have a 2000 lexus ES300 with just over 89,000 miles on it. For the past year I've been hearing this rattling noise from the engine when I accelerate at ant speed but worse when going below 35mph. Because I dont drive it much anymore for fear of a breakdown, when I start it after a week or so of letting it sit the rattling is REALLY bad and loud for the first 10min or so then it quits back down (but still loud). Is this my lifters? If so, are they adjustable on my car or would I have to have them replaced? What else could it be? What are my options? Please get back to me ASAP. Thanks Adam
Get a repair manual-to begin the work remove the valve cover and then the camshaft
Camshaft removal: Remove camshaft. See CAMSHAFT. Note location of adjusting shims and valve lifters for reassembly reference. Remove adjusting shims and valve lifters from cylinder head.
WARNING: To prevent air bag deployment, disconnect negative battery cable and wait at least 90 seconds before working on vehicle.
NOTE: When servicing camshafts, reference to right and left components are as viewed from rear of engine.
Release fuel pressure. See FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE. Drain cooling system. On RX300, remove outer cowl top panel. On all models, remove right fender apron seal. Remove generator drive belt. Remove power steering pump. Remove front exhaust pipe.
Using 5-mm hexagon wrench remove 3 cap nuts from "V" bank cover and remove "V 'bank cover. Remove air cleaner cap and airflow meter with air cleaner hose. Remove cruise control actuator and bracket. Disconnect necessary electrical connections, ground straps, coolant hoses, fuel lines and vacuum hoses for removal of air intake chamber. Remove 2 bolts and No. 1 engine hangar.
Remove nuts and air intake chamber located above intake manifold. See Fig. 13. Disconnect fuel injector connectors. Disconnect fuel inlet hose from fuel filter. Disconnect heater hose from intake manifold. Remove bolts, nuts and washer from intake mainfold and remove intake mainfold, fuel pipes and fuel injectors as an assembly.
CAUTION: DO NOT allow injectors to fall from delivery pipe when removing from intake manifold.
Disconnect Engine Cooling Temperature #ECT# sensor and sending unit. Disconnect ground strap connector. Disconnect upper radiator hose. Disconnect engine coolant reservoir hose. Remove bolts, nuts and plate washers. Disconnect water by-pass hose, and remove thermostat housing. Remove 2 gaskets.
Remove ignition coils and spark plugs. Mark ignition coil location for reassembly reference. Remove timing belt, camshaft sprockets and No. 2 idler pulley. See TIMING BELT. Disconnect 3 engine wire clamps from timing belt cover. Remove 6 bolts and No. 3 timing belt cover.
Remove camshaft position sensors. Remove camshaft timing oil control valves. Remove nut, and disconnect engine wire protector from right cylinder head. Disconnect engine wire protector from left cylinder head. Remove 2 bolts and remove rear plate from left cylinder head. Disconnect water inlet pipes from left cylinder head. Remove "O" ring from inlet pipe.
Remove power steering pump bracket from front of cylinder head. Disconnect airflow sensor connector, remove bolt and nut and remove right exhaust manifold stay. Remove 6 nuts, right exhaust manifold and gasket. Repeat procedure for left exhaust manifold.
Remove bolt holding oil dipstick guide to left cylinder head. Pull out dipstick guide with dipstick from No. 1 oil pan. Remove "O" ring from dipstick guide. Remove 9 bolts, cylinder head cover and gasket. See Fig. 14. Remove 2 cylinder head covers.
To remove right-side camshafts, align timing marks #2 dots# on camshaft gears by rotating intake camshaft using hexagonal area of camshaft. To remove left camshafts, align timing marls #1 dot# on camshaft gears by rotating intake camshaft using hexagonal area of camshaft. See Fig. 24.
October, 7, 2011 AT 6:27 PM
Any thoughs on what that would cost in a repair shop? I live just north of Chicago. When it comes to indepth engine work I find it best to leave it to the pros. Someone like me should stick to oil changes and break jobs.