Rocker arm sequence and torque

Tiny
BLANCOBROTHER
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 HONDA ACCORD
  • 159,000 MILES
Rocker arm assemble bolt tightening sequence and torque specifications and components - V tec engine 4 cylinder, 2000 and valve spring retainers and seals replacement

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Wednesday, August 7th, 2013 AT 1:22 PM

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Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Here are the torque specs for the camshaft and a video on how to use a torque wrench.

https://youtu.be/juOClONIWeY

Check out the diagrams (Below).
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Wednesday, August 7th, 2013 AT 2:12 PM
Tiny
JUSTADRIVER
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA ACCORD
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105 MILES
Car: 2001 honda accord v6 (f30a1) ex

problem:
over torqued the valve adjusting screws on the rocker arm while doing the Valve Clearance Adjustments. The thread are not striped but bent out of alignment. Need to replace them. The only way I can think of is to remove the whole Rocker Arm Assembly (RAA), cut the screw since it will not come out by unscrewing, and install the new screw. (And the nut). And re-install the RAA.

My Hanes manual said the RAA bolt torques are 17ft-lbs. But on the net I see 15 for 12mm and 9 for 10mm. I don't know, not sure what the torques are for the RAA bolts.

And furthermore, any help with removing the adjusting screw without removing the RAA would be greatly thankful. Removing and installing the new screw. (I really think I can't install a new screw without removing the RAA.)

Thanks alot.
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Our database shows 19 ft. Lbs for rocker shaft bolts.
Valve adjusting lock nut is 14 ft. Lbs.

The 12 and 10 mm bolts are for 4 cylinder engines.

Loosen the lock nut and use a large screw driver to try to work the asjust screw loose by turning it in and out slowly. Luck might change.
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTADRIVER
  • MEMBER
When I remove the RAA, do I have to remove both Intake and Exhaust RAA shaft? Cuz the screws (plural) I damaged are the Intake RA by the bolt number 7. I am thinking I can just remove the Intake RA shaft only and do the work.
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The tightening sequence indicates the whole set has to come out together.
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTADRIVER
  • MEMBER
That's what I thought at first. Then I realized that the RAA for the intake is independent from the exhaust. So pondered more and more and this is what I believe.

If I leave the exhaust RAA then that can help with the alignments when I put the intake RAA back in. Practically it will be exactly the same position it came out.

Then the tightening sequence will be 1 2 4 5 7 9.

I really don't see why I have to take both intake and exhaust out. Would it hurt the engine? Would it cause a problem (mild to extreme)? The two shaft are totally separate. I already loosed all valve adjustment screws so no valves are pressuring on any RA. I have to adjust them anyways so why not just loosen them all now? Nothing wrong there. Also in my Haynes book, they also took them out in sequence from intake first then the exhaust. Although they loosen all the screws by the reverse order of the tightening sequence, but they did that because some valves are pressuring some RAs. But again, they said once you remove the RAA then it is a good idea to recheck/adjust the valve clearance again. So why not just loosen all the adjusting screws totally so there are no pressure to any RA? And there isn't any; all RAs are free.

So, I am not a mech. My idea, makes sense. But I need opinions from experienced ppl. I really don't think I have to remove both shaft.

Now on youtube I saw 4 cylinder models. Those the intake and the exhaust are on one shaft. So that I understand.

Thank again!
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
It is ok to remove only one shaft at a time.

You are correct about losening the adjusting valves. That would also help in getting the correct torque when tightening.

Once the RAA are removed, the valve clearnaces must be checked upon assembly. Removal and installation can affect the clearances.
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTADRIVER
  • MEMBER
What is the best shop manual (service manual) for my car? I like but not much, the Haynes manuals. Electronic version would be better. Can you/someone tell me?

Thank you again.

Cheapest ofc. But THE BEST of all.
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The best would be the one printed by the manufacturer. All others have their strong and weak points. I have no comments other than this.
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTADRIVER
  • MEMBER
Do you have or know the ISBN? Or some sort of reference number so that I can look it up?
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Sorry I don't know about that.
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTADRIVER
  • MEMBER
Those bolts did NOT feel like 17 or 19 ft*lbs! They were more like 30 FtLbs or more. Is this normal?
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTADRIVER
  • MEMBER
And 1 more, 1 of 2 screws are replaced and fixed. The other, I over torqued it so much the screw is bent! I have to cut it. But they look like harden steel. Are they harden steel? Harder than the saw blade?
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
When loosening, the bolts tends to grab and you require quite a lot of additional force. When tightening, folow the specs.

The bolts are hardened but not as hiard as HSS saw blades.
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTADRIVER
  • MEMBER
Thank you very much! I successfully cut off the broken screw without damaging any parts. At least not visible to the naked eye. It was difficult since I only had a handheld jigsaw and no table top vise grip. Only used a C-Clamp and a plastic box. I was very careful with griping with the c-clamp since it looked like they were both same harden metal.

I recommend using a rotary grind cutter instead of rigged saw blade. And table top vise grip. C-clamp works, just be very careful. Use thin woods to sandwich it if you can. AND! Wrap the rocker arm air tight. I used shop towel, then a painter's tape, then a used latex gloves. Use one of the fingers and pinch a pin hole to slit over the screw.

And then use used engine oil (synthetic) to clean/wash it off. It works. And just give the whole RAA+shaft a bath with it. (Drain it afterwards.) Always keep the RAA+shaft covered.

And also clean out all the screw hole free of fluids and debris or hydro-lock can happen.

And hand screw it in first. Then use a rubber mallet to tap things in then hand screw it in more. And then inspect all alignment. (Valve to Valve Adj. Screws, Roller bearing to the cam shaft, and the two little pin holes at the ends of the shaft that looks like oil passage)

And then finally torque them in. One thing I noticed is my shaft seems a bit bent, or warped. I don't know if that is normal. When I was installing the RAA+shaft back to the cam and the valve, it was rocking just a bit. This is the only thing I didn't like.

If anyone else is reading, it is good idea to follow the inspection list for RAA and the shaft. I followed the Haynes manual, although I can't tell what a excessive wear looks like. But lubricate all moving parts (RA, VTEC pins, bearing for the shaft, the shaft, rollers, and more) with engine oil before putting it back in. And don't mix their places. Those VTEC pins slide out so easily, I hope they are omni-directional.

So everything looks back to normal!

But now another question just popped up into my head. Should I have done this work when it was ice cold outside? I haven't done the valve clearance yet. Too tired atm. But if the valve clearance must be done when it is cold, does that mean re-assembling/reinstalling the RA should've been done when it's cold also?
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Cold adjustment means it should be 38 C or below and not ice cold. I usualy use my fingers as a gauge on hot engines. After the engine has cooled down, I put my fingers on the engine and if I can withstand the heat for more than 10 seconds, it means the temperature is right.

Installation do not concern temperature because the intention of cold adjustment is to ensure that heat does not affect the clearances/adjustment.

The rocker shaft is a hollow tube and might bend slightly because of its length ad it does not matter.

Wear of rocker shafts are usually at positions where the rocker arms seats and if you can feel any groove, it definitely is bad. Minimal wear is acceptable, only end result would be a noisier engine while running.
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Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 7:28 PM (Merged)

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