10 mm socket to remove brake caliper bolts
32 mm socket for axle hub nut
E14 star bit socket to remove hub assembly from steering knuckle
The reluctor wheel on the end of the drive axle for ABS cars prevents access to the bolts for the E14 socket. You have to remove the drive axle from the steering knuckle to get access.
22 mm box end wrench to remove lower ball joint nut.
18 mm deep socket to remove outer tie rod end nut.
Had to use a pickle fork to remove tie rod end from steering knuckle. The tie rod end stud was too long for any of the free loaner tools at O'Reillys. I drove the pickle fork between the heat shield and the steering knuckle boss, which protected the rubber boot from damage. I had to re-straighten the heat shield afterwards as it got bent up by the pickle fork.
I find that an impact wrench with lots of torque is helpful to break free the axle hub nut. Didn't feel like hurting myself when it didn't want to come loose with a 24" breaker bar.
I used the free loaner axle hub puller to drive the splined axle stub from the bearing.
When the tie rod end and lower ball joint are removed you can rotate and swing out the steering knuckle to remove it from the drive axle. You can then remove the E-14 bolts. I hit the hub assembly flange (the one with the lug nut studs) with a large hammer to drive it out of the steering knuckle, since the bearing was no longer good.
Axle hub nut torque: 105 ft-lbs
E14 bolt torque: 80 ft-lbs
Tie rod end nut: 45 ft-lbs. Factory shop manual says to hold end of tie rod end stud with 11/32 wrench to keep it from rotating while tightening.
Lower ball joint nut: 55 ft-lbs. I used crow foot wrenches to torque the two nuts to spec.
Brake caliper bolts: 16 ft-lbs.
If the car does not have ABS then the job is much easier and you don't have to remove the drive axle from the steering knuckle. Hope this helps.
Friday, October 14th, 2016 AT 9:17 AM