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High revving speeds up on its own

Tiny
TOM STEAL
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CHRYSLER CIRRUS
  • 113,308 MILES
Changed a bad distributor now it revs real high goes down when shifted into drive but the car takes off. Motor jumps after shifting from reverse to drive and vise versa. I waz advised the crankshaft sensor could be bad. Would the crankshaft control idling or is there other components to consider before I spend $80 to change it. What process of elimination would be considered, should I clean connectors around the distributor. No problems until the new distributor was put in. Appreciate the tips. Aaloha!
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Tuesday, November 8th, 2011 AT 9:50 AM

20 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Check for vacuum leaks and the idle air control motor-Did you mark the distributor when you took it out if not you're in trouble
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Tuesday, November 8th, 2011 AT 9:54 AM
Tiny
TOM STEAL
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I did not mark the distributor but it's stationary so I didn't think I have to. No vacuum leaks the air motor control could that give the car to much air to idle it that high its 3000 RPM how do you test to make sure its no good or to good. Also the check engine light will come on and off every couple days. Aaloha!
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Tuesday, November 8th, 2011 AT 10:09 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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CEL/SES On

What you need to do here is have the computer scanned for OBD2 codes, there's a problem within the engine management system that caused the light to turn On, this is your starting point of diagnosis
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Tuesday, November 8th, 2011 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
TOM STEAL
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Thanks for the tips I'll get it tested to pin point which sensor. I had a family friend test it and they never give me which codes, funny he jus said to many sensors bad should jus buy another car. Not worth it! But thank you. Aaloha!
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Tuesday, November 8th, 2011 AT 10:55 AM
Tiny
TOM STEAL
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The. Engine light not on right now. I pulled the idle air control and the pin was extended out all the way when I cleaned It it retracted back in. I put the parts back on the throttle body. Started the car and now it revs even higher. What else can I elimanate of not being the problem. Also could that cranksensor be the problem with high revving?
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Tuesday, November 8th, 2011 AT 8:23 PM
Tiny
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You might end up replacing the IACV and see what happens
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Tuesday, November 8th, 2011 AT 9:11 PM
Tiny
TOM STEAL
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So is the IAC valve the problem since after cleaning it's RPM is 1000X more makes it 4500! On idle is that a sign of be a faulty IACV
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Tuesday, November 8th, 2011 AT 9:45 PM
Tiny
TOM STEAL
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  • 31 POSTS
New IACV in and still revs at 4500 RPM like I shud of not cleaned it at all. So no check engine lite on yet, my question would be if the crankshaft sensor controls that engine management of idling. Or does the MAF sensor?
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Friday, November 11th, 2011 AT 9:49 PM
Tiny
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Did you check for vacuum leaks? Try scanning the computer maybe something might just popped-up that can give us a hint-
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Friday, November 11th, 2011 AT 10:12 PM
Tiny
TOM STEAL
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I check for leaks no leaks I unplugged the batteryTo reset the computer and it dropped to 2000 so it's better now than 4500. Thanks that sensor was part the problem. Aaloha!
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Friday, November 11th, 2011 AT 10:33 PM
Tiny
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Its probably has to go thru a computer relearning process to set the idle speed-
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Friday, November 11th, 2011 AT 10:43 PM
Tiny
TOM STEAL
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  • 31 POSTS
Shud I replace that crankshaft sensor to knock off that extra 500 RPM it does have oil that leaked on it and the camshaft sensor in the distributior is new. So wndering if I shud change the crankshaft sensor jus so it's new too.
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Friday, November 11th, 2011 AT 11:01 PM
Tiny
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The CPS has nothing to do with high rpms-check the throttle position sensor and clean out the throttle body and see what happens
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Friday, November 11th, 2011 AT 11:33 PM
Tiny
TOM STEAL
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I cleaned out the throttle body and I sprayed the position sensor with the carburetor cleaner too. I read The crank cam sensor help the PCM to control the idle air control. Maybe the car jus gotta get use to running new and clean sensors. He's confused LoL!
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 12:21 AM
Tiny
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Double check the valve timing-put engine no.1 piston on its compression stroke/TDC, line the markings at the crank pulley to 0/TDC now look at the distributor rotor if its pointing direct to the no'1 cap tower if not the timing is still off-pull out the distributor and restab it making sure this time that rotor is pointing to no.1 cap
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 12:39 AM
Tiny
TOM STEAL
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Good point! Dam I got some work to do! There's this car and my girls van. And I jus change the control arm on this Chrysler all kinds of work and money on this car, shud be called Crisis. Thanks for the tip I gues I'll get to work this weekend. Enjoy yours I'll get back to ya! Aaloha!
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 1:04 AM
Tiny
TOM STEAL
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  • 31 POSTS
Thanks for the tips. I pulled The distributor and the teeth was crack of the two, I put the pulley on the middle marking between BTDC and T. Reset the distributor facing no 1, but he didn't start so I pulled it off again and the teeth broke fully off I retrieved the broken tooth. And I put it on again but still no start. Do I have to get another distributor?
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Monday, November 14th, 2011 AT 6:58 AM
Tiny
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If the dizzy gear is messed-up replace it-
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Monday, November 14th, 2011 AT 5:05 PM
Tiny
TOM STEAL
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That whole car is dizzy, Shud jus replace the whole car! Another 300 dollas! Well I guess it's on standby till I get some c-notes. Thanks for all yur help. Now time to work on my girls 99 mercury villager. Never ending story!
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Monday, November 14th, 2011 AT 5:24 PM
Tiny
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You're welcomed and Good Luck
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Monday, November 14th, 2011 AT 9:54 PM

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