Cougar EGR vac switch buring up why?

Tiny
ROC MARTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MERCURY COUGAR
  • 98,000 MILES
I replaced the EGR Vac/electrical switch because it was melted in to 2 peices. I put a new one on and it did the same thing? What would cause the vacume part of the switch to melt in two?
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Saturday, December 10th, 2011 AT 3:38 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
If its actually melting then its getting too much heat from where its mounted for some reason.
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Saturday, December 10th, 2011 AT 3:59 AM
Tiny
ROC MARTIN
  • MEMBER
The part of the switch that is burning up is connected to a heat resistant vacume line to the exhaust/manifold converter egr tube. There is no real heat source from the mounted position other than normal engine heat. I believe it is the exhaust gas doing the damage. But I was told that its made to take that much heat?
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Saturday, December 10th, 2011 AT 4:18 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Your right its ment to take the heat. The only thing that comes to mind is if you had a plugged cat that was making hotter then normal exhaust gas that could melt the solenoid.
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Saturday, December 10th, 2011 AT 4:26 AM
Tiny
ROC MARTIN
  • MEMBER
The Cat is 2 years old from magna flow. It flow nice I just had it off thinking it had a bad gasket. I was wondering which line goes to which of the two Vac ports. I guessed and put the manifold/cat erg tube line in the center portal. The other line to the far left/center of the engine portal. Then I plugged in the electrical plus. The other problem is the trans is shifting violently between shifts. It just slams the greas no soft shift. I replaced the pistion and spring that blew out 2 years agoand guessed which pistion it was since then it has always shifted a bit hard but now its banging hard. Sorry for being long winded. I think they might be related problems?
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Saturday, December 10th, 2011 AT 4:51 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
What is the 8th digit of your vin number?
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Saturday, December 10th, 2011 AT 5:02 AM
Tiny
ROC MARTIN
  • MEMBER
The vin ## in the car is 1ZWFT61L5X5619678 L is the eigth digit.
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Saturday, December 10th, 2011 AT 1:49 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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I Posted a diagram showing the routing of the hoses let me know if there routed correctly?ALso what brand sensor was the oringal sensor that was melted on the car?And what brand did you replace it with?
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Saturday, December 10th, 2011 AT 6:40 PM
Tiny
ROC MARTIN
  • MEMBER
Well I looked at the Diagram and everything is hooked up correctly. I thought there might be a metal baffle or some sort of aresstor for those exhaust gasses. I see there is not. I used the special heat resistant hose from the manifold to the center fitting. I have no engine codes either. I have an actron to check that. I am lost now not knowing what do do because everything seems correct. A new converter/manifold unit is in excess of $950. So unless I know absoulutely for sure its bad I am not replacing it. I wonder if the non 02 sensor converter would be plugged. Would a plugged converter down stream throw a code even tho there are no 02 sensors in it?
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Saturday, December 10th, 2011 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
You can have a back pressure test done to see if your cat is restricted and creating super hot exhaust up into the sensor. Also plugged cats usually never set codes.
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Saturday, December 10th, 2011 AT 11:48 PM
Tiny
ROC MARTIN
  • MEMBER
I guess its time to give up and take it into a shop that can do a back pressure test. Thanks for the info and helping me. I'll let you know what came of this ordeal.
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Sunday, December 11th, 2011 AT 3:23 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Your welcome keep me posted.
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Sunday, December 11th, 2011 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
ROC MARTIN
  • MEMBER
Hi Guys!
Well We did a flow test and found that the downstream converters are both restricted (clogged) which lead to a failure(meltdown of the main manifold converters) which lead to the egr sensor burning in two by superheated exhaust gas. Bank 2 converter went bad two year agO. I didn't realize then that the bad converter sent material downstream into the other two converters. The cause of todays failure. So I am going to replace the converters all 4 at a cost of over $2000. Thats if I do the Job myself. I know now after I get the converters down I have to run an O2 sensor balance test. I'll be looking for any antifreeze leaks from the engine as I tear things down. Plus I'll be changing plugs and a wire set for good measure. I am going to take it in for a complete go thru for the sensors on the engine. I want them to check for a overfuel or under fuel condition too that might be cause by a slowsensor. I am going to have them check the function of the fuel inJectors for a sticky on or failed one. That also can cause premature cat failures. I hate these OBD computer systems. Its almost impossible to check all of what might maybe or could have gone wrong. I hope in the future someone reads this and can lean form my minor but costly mistakes. The total cost I am looking at is around $3100. For a car thats worth only $3800 to $4500. It might go to the yard I havent decided. The car is worth more in part than the repir LOL. It has a really nice body and everything else is now prefect on it.
Thanks for the help and I appreciate the advice thanks!
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Wednesday, December 14th, 2011 AT 2:56 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
A plugged cat was the only thing that madw sense for that sensor melting. So do you have a federal emissions car?
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Wednesday, December 14th, 2011 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
ROC MARTIN
  • MEMBER
It does have to be odb2 compliant in my county in indiana. It has a obd2 So I guess yes?
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Wednesday, December 14th, 2011 AT 4:15 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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That would be federal emissions out there.I would look on www. Rockauto. Com for your cats let me know what you find.
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Wednesday, December 14th, 2011 AT 4:43 PM

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