Dandy. That rules out a low idle speed problem. Given that you have already replaced the crankshaft position sensor, which would be a logical suspect, we can rule that out. Be aware there is also a camshaft position sensor that can cause the same symptoms and those types of sensors usually fail intermittently by becoming heat-sensitive, and they work again when they cool down. Also look at the connector terminals in the crankshaft position sensor's connector to be sure the terminals aren't "spread" and making intermittent contact. We always tighten them up a little when replacing parts. You mentioned that the stalling problem didn't occur for a few weeks after replacing that sensor. That is exactly how spread and corroded terminals act. The scratching action of plugging in the connector scratches through the light film of corrosion and makes a better contact, ... For a little while.
Since you aren't getting a fault code, you might suspect a problem with the ignition switch; specifically an arced contact internally or an overheated terminal in the connector. Check its plug to see if any terminal is blackened or if the connector body is melted.
There are two other tests that can be done with the Chrysler DRB3 scanner. While driving, it will let you monitor the state of the ignition switch and the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. If one goes to "off" when the problem occurs, we can figure out which circuit to start looking in. The second test involves driving with the cruise control engaged. When the engine stalls, do not touch the ignition switch or gear shift, just coast to a stop. Under the "Cruise Control Tests" menu it will list the "reason for last cutout". You have to view that right away before your speed drops below about 35 mph. The reason listed will be "speed" meaning as you coasted to a stop, the vehicle speed dropped below the minimum set speed, but before that, if the reason is "ignition switch", that tells you that circuit turned off while you were driving. 99 percent chance that is due to the switch itself or the connector, but the problem could be in any of the associated wiring.
If you don't have a scanner, about the only thing you can do is monitor the ASD relay circuit to see if it is turning off. That will be easier now that it is staying in the defective state for a long time. That gives you time to do some testing. Look for the wires that are the same color at all of the ignition coils and all of the injectors. That is the wire to check for voltage. You can also measure for that voltage on the smaller wires on the back of the alternator. You can use a digital voltmeter but a test light is better because the initial voltage pulse happens so quickly, a lot of voltmeters don't respond fast enough to see it. You should see 12 volts there for one second after turning on the ignition switch. At the same time you might hear the fuel pump hum for that one second. What is important is that voltage must come back during cranking. If it does, you have a fuel pump, injector wiring, coil wiring, or Engine Computer problem. All of those are relatively uncommon. If that 12 volts does not come back during cranking, there's a problem with the camshaft position sensor or the crankshaft position sensor or their wiring.
Wednesday, August 22nd, 2012 AT 2:42 AM